Finish problem diagnosis help

[Tim Reagan]

I recently finished some cherry cabinets and noticed a few areas of flaws (see pic) My schedule was blo, 2 sealcoat, and 3 wb topcoat. It is not something you can really feel.
thanks for any ideas.

[Chris Fournier]

I've had a similar defect in the past while using BLO under NC lacquer. After taking a close look at the defects in my work and scraping back the lacquer, I did the old "warm finger test" on the BLO'd cherry and sure enough it brought up "sweat" out of the BLO. Entirely my fault, I rushed the BLO and the NC didn't wanna play nice!
Your top coat is different but the result of BLO/sealer lack of adhesion looks identical.

[Bob Wingard]

I use Linseed Oil only on more appropriate projects ... axe handles .. wheelbarrow handles .. rakes .. etc .. for exactly the reason shown in your photo.

It adds little or nothing that cannot be accomplished in a more sane manner, and it has the potential to ruin an otherwise perfectly good finish. Some folks here would have you believe that Linseed Oil will dry/cure/do SOMETHING in 24-48hrs, and be ready for topcoating ... I don't believe it, and I think the use of that stuff is simply courting disaster. I sincerely hope your entire cabinet project is not ruined and in need of refinishing, but be prepared for that eventuality just in case.

[Howard Acheson]

It is likely that the BLO was not sufficiently cured. Shellac will begin to impede the oxygen flow required for the polymerizing (curing) of the BLO. Adding a waterborne finish on top will further prevent the BLO from curing. When topcoating with a waterborne finish over BLO, you must let the BLO cure for at least 5 days. At this point there is little you can do to recover except to strip off the finish and start over.

BLO is an excellent way to add the amber color necessary to "pop" the grain and "warm" up the look of cherry and walnut. But one coat, wiped dry after letting it set for 10-15 minutes is all you need. More will only slow down the time needed to cure. I generally follow the BLO with an amber colored dewaxed shellac. Unlike oil based clear finishes, waterborne finishes contain no amber coloring. To "warm" up the look of the wood, BLO and amber shellac are frequently used. Some finishers will apply an amber dye or add amber dye stain to the shellac.

[Chris Fournier]

I use Linseed Oil only on more appropriate projects ... axe handles .. wheelbarrow handles .. rakes .. etc .. for exactly the reason shown in your photo.

It adds little or nothing that cannot be accomplished in a more sane manner, and it has the potential to ruin an otherwise perfectly good finish. Some folks here would have you believe that Linseed Oil will dry/cure/do SOMETHING in 24-48hrs, and be ready for topcoating ... I don't believe it, and I think the use of that stuff is simply courting disaster. I sincerely hope your entire cabinet project is not ruined and in need of refinishing, but be prepared for that eventuality just in case.

It would appear that linseed oil hurt you bad, hurt you real bad Bob!

[Henry Ambrose]

oil and water -- mix 'em together and what do you get?

[Tim Reagan]

seems like a consensus. I let the blo cure 2 days, but sounds like 5 is more like it. It is only in a few areas, none of which are grossly visible. The way blo as a starting coat is recommended on this forum, this is the first I have read about the naysayers. I think it does add something, but lengthens the process.