False top for table saw

[Tony West]

Hello fellow woodworkers.

I have an older craftsman bench saw (contractor saw on steriods) that has served me well. The current project that I'm working on requires me to build a crosscut sled. In doing the research, I noted that most newer saws have a t-slot miter track...I do not. I see this as an advantage for a sled to keep it on the table when you are at the extremes of your cut.

I also have been designing an outfeed extension for the back of the saw, since the blade is only inches from the back of the table. Additionally, I have cast aluminum wings that mark up my wood (which really ticks me off). Lastly, I have a goofy throatplate that is a real pain to make ZCI's for. So...As I got creative, I thought, why not combine all the problems into 1 project. So, here's my crazy idea that I would like feedback on. Am I just plain nuts, or will this work?

Put a layer of 3/4" MDF w/ laminate over my entire saw top, extension wings and extend it over the back of the saw (with support obviously). Cut a square insert, so the ZCI's are easy to make in the future. Fasten the top to the wings and to the supports on the back of the saw...and embed rare earth magnets along the front of the top so they attach to the CI table. This should hold it in place just fine. For the new miter slots, just use the miter track commonly available, and run it right over where the current slots are. The current slots would have hardwood strips run in them to provide a good grip for the screws holding the new miter track on. I have a t-square fence that could just have the front tube raised up 3/4" to account for the added height.

The only drawback that I see to this is the loss of 3/4" of cut height, which I feel is far outweighed by the benifits that it will bring me for every cut.

As I said, I'd like to know your thoughts...nuts (if so, why) or not?

Thanks!

[John Morrison60]

Tony

Not nuts, but it does sound liike you have outgrown your saw.
If you are going to continue with projects, I think you will become
increasingly dissatisfied with your saw.
Unless money is the absolute driver here, I would start looking for
a saw that would meet your needs, and solve your current issues.

I think that the MDF cover would work, it just sounds like more trouble than it is worth.

Good luck
John

[Andrew Nemeth]

Tony,

I agree with John. You certainly could rig something up but It certainly would not be worth the time or money to me. You can pick up decent older contractor saws with cast extensions for around $150 on craigslist. I bet you will have at least half of that in materials if you build your own top. If you stretch a but further, cabinet saws are available used for around $400-$500. There is even one in the classified section for $250 right now.

Just my thoughts,
Andrew

[Brian Kent]

Tony, the potential problem would be alignment. While most woodworking does fine with a 1/64" margin of error, a table saw blade and miter slot need to be aligned to a couple of thousandths of an inch. Could your set-up get that consistent accuracy?

[Tony Bilello]

I agree with the others. You will be throwing good money after bad. Your idea will work but if that is what you need, you really need a bigger and bader saw.

[Chip Lindley]

As said, it IS more trouble than it's worth. T-slots won't help your sled. Downward pressure of your hands on the stock being cut, will keep the sled against the table. Wax the saw top and save your MDF for the crosscut sled. I believe you would find it a PITA to have to slide the bars into the end of the saw table rather than just being able to drop it on!

And, I certainly would not buy a new TS just for it's T-slots! Think about it. There is no precision fit between T-slot and whatever washer, etc. mates in it. Lots of room for vertical play. If you ahve outgrown your Sears saw it's not because of lack of T-slots!

The only real uses I have found for T-slots is to keep certain hold downs clamped in place, and to keep a miter gauge from dropping to the floor if it is pulled out beyond the table edge. Those granite saw tops have suffered slots broken out because of that very feature.

[Rod Sheridan]

Tony, as others have indicated, it sounds like you've outgrown your saw.

Once you're at the crosscut sled stage you've discovered that conventional table saws are only good at ripping.

You're now looking to perform accurate crosscuts, with good repeatability.

It's time to look at a low end slider like the Hammer K3, about the same price as a cabinet saw, yet so much more............Rod.