"Thickening shellac?

[Perry Holbrook]

I'm using some off the shelf Bullseye amber shellac to color some brushed steel cups. It makes the cups look like they are aged brass, a nice look for what I am making. I've tried brushing and dipping, both run to the bottom of the cup (on the outside). I know I can make multiple thin coats, but that is not a good solution for production work. I want to try using a thicker shellac that I can "dab" on. I think this stuff is 2lb cut out of the can. I'm thinking with 4 or 5 lb cut I can get the look I'm after with a sponge or foam brush. Need to try this today if possible so don't want to order flakes and make the stuff.

How can I safely thicken up this 2lb cut? I thought about applying some heat to a small container to drive off some solvent, but a little concerned about the safety and repeatability of that. I'll order some flakes for the production stuff. I'm just in a hurry to get the prototype done.

Thoughts?

Perry

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Perry,

I think the solvent is denatured alcohol. Taking a small amount and letting it sit out for a few minutes should thicken it as the alcohol evaporates.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Take a quick run to an auto parts store and pick up a can of shellac based gasket sealer.
IIRC, that's 5# cut.

[John Coloccia]

It doesn't hurt to try but I think you'll just end up with a thicker clump of shellac at the bottom of your piece. What might help is putting the piece on something absorbant to soak up the excess from the bottom. Maybe dab it on a paper towel moistened with alcohol ( to keep it from sticking to the cloth).

[Tony Bilello]

How about using a glaze that is compatable with your finish.

[Perry Holbrook]

I tried putting a small amount in a baby food jar and seeing if if would thicken. Got impatient and decided to try heating. Put a 100 watt bulb in the magnetic base light fixture I have on the band saw. Put the glass jar in a stainless steel bowl (just in case) and put the bulb about 5 inches from the jar. Once I got it to 150 deg, it was close to what I thought would work. Using a cheap foam brush, I was able to apply it with no sagging. Just what I was looking for. I'll shoot a couple coats of lacquer and it'll be good to go.

Thanks, Perry

[Jim Becker]

The danger you run with "thick" shellac, Perry, is that it might crack. Shellac is best used with as thin a coating as possible, even when multiple applications are involved. What might be worth experimenting with is using a darker color shellac or tinting it with alcohol soluble dye.

[Philip Berman]

Accordions, concertinas and some other reed instruments use "burned shellac" as an air-tight adhesive for the internal parts such as reed blocks. "Burned Shellac" is just that, shellac that has been set on fire to burn off some of the alcohol to make a thicker mixture. I honestly don't know why they don't just use less alcohol initially, but perhaps the 'burning' does something to the resin in addition to reducing the alcohol content.

[Perry Holbrook]

That sounds like fun! I'll have to try that.

Perry