MM24 Mobility

[John Coloccia]

John....Folks dont' normally whine if they are happy.....People are more likely to post if they are extremely happy or extremely upset with a product. I took time to read the reviews including the "rants" about the wheels and bought a MM-16 anyway. Personally I don't find the wheels on the factory mobility kit to be a major issue when changing blades but that's me.

There are bad experiences with all companies. For example, I'd could have just as well bought an Agazzani from Eagle BUT....they were too busy to talk to me when I called them. They took my number and said they'd call back. I waited several days. Finally I went with Mini-Max. 3 days after I ordered the MM-16 I finally got a call from Eagle tools in LA. Does this mean they are bad company or Agazzani is a bad product? Absolutely not. I caught them at a bad time. That's all it means.

Honestly, I feel like this is kind of out of left field, Ken. The OP asked a simple question of why so many people where replacing their mobility kits, and I offered the simple answer that from my research some time ago, it's clear that a lot of people are unhappy with the MM mobility kit. It wasn't just the blade changes either. The whole system just doesn't seem to work well for many. I don't see where anyone has said anything negative about MM as a company, or anyone that's accusing anything of being a bad product, and in fact I was considering a MM and would simply replace the stupid kit with something that worked better.

I appreciate what you're saying, Ken, but for the life of me I don't understand why you're directing it at me.

[Van Huskey]

One thing I would add is that machine leveling casters do have their downside also. While true they do not reduce door movement, will handle rougher floors and are more maneuverable than the mobility kit they are MUCH slower, require one to get down on the floor and do reduce stability however that is VERY subtle. It really is a chocolate vs vanilla kinda thing and the OP will just have to taste the chocolate he was "given" and decide whether to purchase the vanilla that someone else sales.

[Jonathan Spool]

Sam Blasco from MM got back to me on this "issue". He wrote that the issue is mostly that the door on the MM16 is partially blocked by the wheel, but won't be an issue with the MM24. I'll just wait and see.
I use Vega bases on some of my machines, and I believe that they are similar to the MM mobility kit in that one mus "parallel park" the machine where you want it, as the rear wheels do not swivel. From what I've gathered from other sources, this is the big issue for those with smaller shops that move their bandsaw each time they use it, and then put it away. The Zambus allow the machine to be pushed in any horizontal direction. However, I have Great Lakes casters on my current saw, and locking those puppies down is a pita. I'll let you know what I find out with the door on the saw when it gets here!

[Philip Johnson]

Steve the zambus and great lakes casters come or can be ordered with a 12 mm stud that screws right into the leveling pad.

Phil

[Ken Fitzgerald]

John, . my initial statement was in response to you pointing out you considered the mobility issue in your research. So did I. I didn't and still don't find it a bother. My second point was more to the OP. Even with a known good company, on occasion, you can have a bad experience. That's all.

[Steve Costa]

Phil,

Thanks for the info. The Zambus cost 2 + times the GLC casters but I'll contact both companies to get more info. I only want to do this once & I do want to get it right!!
Thanks again for your help.

Steve

[Todd Bin]

I have the zambus casters. My MM24 came with the mobility kit ("free"). It would be fine if you have a lot of room to manuver the machine around. Kinda like parallel parking. Withe the Zambus casters I can spin the machine 360 degrees in the same spot with very little effort. It was easily worth the $140 for the casters since my shop space is somewhat limited.

[David Winer]

I've looked at the photos of the Zambus casters affixed to the bandsaws but I need some further info on how they are attached. From what I can see they are attached to each corner of the saw, so what type of screws / bolts are folks using? I thought I might be able to use the holes for the leveling pads but it seems this would place the casters to far inboard & reduce stability. Lifting my MM16 is not an issue. Any photos or descriptions of how you did this would be greatly appreciated. Please note that in this instance the sharpest tool in the shed has left the building!!!

I've read about Zambus casters in this forum. Finally, convinced by the following quote, "For some things in life there should be no doubt . . . Putting Zambus casters on your MM bandsaw is one such example!! I put a set of Zambus AC-300S casters on my MM20, the same set you would use on the MM16. The provided threaded bolt is the same metric size as the threaded hole on the base of the bandsaw. Install took about 20 minutes for all four casters" I ordered a set of four this week to install in my MM16. So far I am pleased with these heavy duty gadgets, but am in the process of installing them. Not so easy for me as quoted. I will need to enlist help to tilt the saw and insert the casters. But to answer some of the questions about how they are to be fitted I took a couple of photos to show here. In getting ready I came across a black plastic box that came with my MM16. Only now do I realize what the threaded inserts and tool are for. You may already have these too, and if so would only need the AC-300 without the S.
Another interesting thing is how to order. The Zambus website is not set up like so many vendors' sites these days to allow you to place an order. I found an order blank which needed a phone call to a human being actually to order and pay by check or credit card. A polite conversation, and two days later the casters arrived at my front door.


Zambus Casters 01.jpgZambus Casters 02.jpg

[Van Huskey]

David, do you have an "automotive" floor jack? If so I will post the process for doing the install by yourself OR with a small amount of non-lifting help like from a wife.

[David Winer]

David, do you have an "automotive" floor jack? If so I will post the process for doing the install by yourself OR with a small amount of non-lifting help like from a wife.

I do have a car jack and a wife. Any experienced-based advice would be appreciated. Fortunately I have a strong next door neighbor too, but perhaps I won't have to ask him to help. Thanks.

[Van Huskey]

This is the process I used on my MM20 with NO help but you may want a stabilizing 3rd hand if you don't like adventure as much as I do.

This is using a floor jack (one that rolls around like Nascar jacks)

1. Use the Johnson bar of the mobility kit to lift the front of the bandsaw, hold it up with one hand and roll the jack under the front.

2. Slowly let the Johnson bar down and make sure the bandsaw is balanced on the jack before completely letting go.

3. Lift the front with the jack slowly, when you have it high enough to work under place scrap wood (2x4s etc) under the saw like jack stands to support the weight if the jack fails, like jack stands.

4. Put the casters on the front.

5. Raise the front with the jack just enough to get the "jack stands" out.

6. Here is the only tricky part... place a single 2x4 on the floor under the bandsaw, wide part of the board, on the floor from front to back (perpendicular to the wheels). Place the board closer to the spine than the jack by about a board width. The board is now the fulcrum of a big ole bandsaw teeter totter. Slowly let the jack down, the bandsaw should remain up in the air at the "jack end" even with the fulcrum back because the center of gravity is closer to the spine of the saw (if it tries to lift the spine end off the floor just lift and move the board back toward the jack. Now for the leap of faith... move the jack to the opposite side (spine side) and now slowly push on the spine and the bandsaw should gently rock forward. If doing this alone you may have to move back to the brake side of the saw and relift and reset the 2x4 so that it stays forward when rocked over, with two people even if the balance is still a little to the rear one can hold it while another gets the jack under the back edge.

7. One the jack is under the spine side of the saw, lift it, block it, put the casters on, crank them all the way down for jack clearance and lower the jack and remove it.

8. IF you jack is too high to get from under the casters don't worry! If that is the case, relift the jack, put the fulcrum board back in lower the jack rock the saw again so the brake side is now high, put the jack under it and lift it up. The key here is to have the jack body angled enough so when you lower the jack you can still get the Johnson bar into the brake to lift it off the jack. If this is the case you may want to have another set of strong hands to steady the saw as you may need to make this last lift a little off center to get the Johnson bar in.

9. Respect the weight but don't be scared of it. I went in scared to death but the more I moved the saw around the more I realized if you take your time it doesn't do anything crazy, it is top heavy no doubt but there is still a LOT of weight at the bottom. With two people this method would be a breeze.

10. I also thought of another way to get the jack under it without being off center with the jack but it takes two people more than likely. When you lift it with the Johnson bar just put two scraps under it out near the casters lower it and then slide the jack under.

[David Winer]

This is the process I used on my MM20 with NO help but you may want a stabilizing 3rd hand if you don't like adventure as much as I do.

This is using a floor jack (one that rolls around like Nascar jacks) ...

Thanks,Van. I will copy your instructions to a Word file and have the printed copy at the ready as I proceed. Sounds like a plan.

[Rick Fisher]

Van's post reminded me of myself trying to get my little 15" General open ended wide belt onto a conventional base ... at 1:00 am .. alone in the garage..

Sigh..

It fell against me.. the motor hit the drywall (luck) .. essentially trapping me against the wall.. After the panic passed, I realized I was unhurt (bruised the next day) and only had a hole in the drywall, but was hopelessly stuck in the corner.. with a 500+ lb machine .. kinda on me.. ( I was sorta sitting now)

I squatted there for a few minutes when suddenly my wife arrived, half asleep.. saying I woke the dog.. Funny how they cannot just help.. without lecturing you on patience and safety..

Anyway.. I have an old 24" SCM/ Centauro.. same manufacturer as the MM-24, but not as heavy as the new one. Having said that .. I am now too chicken to do it without at least a spotter to call 911 if things go wrong.

[Van Huskey]

I must say I entered the endeavor with significant trepidation but took it slow, thought out each move carefully, kept my body out of the way of the likely falling path of the 750# behemoth AND never once was afraid to say "I give" and leave it sitting partially done until I could muster help. I had also spent most of the day with 4 extra sets of hands wrestling it and an equally heavy Woodmaster 38" drum sander around and had gotten a good feel for the weight and balance of the bandsaw. I would however have to give a second thought to doing the same thing with the extra 250# of the MM24 but feel comfortable recommending doing the same with a MM16 which is 220# lighter than my MM20 and not quite as tall.

Anyone using my method above take your time and think through every movement I tried to be clear and complete BUT common sense should rule the day!

[Rye Crane]

Gentlemen,

I faced the "wheel in the way problem" when I first confronted the saw blade change. Geez guys, all that is needed is to pull the keeper pin, pull the wheel
off, change the band and replace wheel when finished. The biggest problem I had with my MM24 was the damn door kept wanting to close so I found a shim/wedge
and fixed that until I could find one of my elastic cords with the hook on them, forgot the name but it works fine to hold the door open. Now the saw is on Zambus casters and it's no longer got wheels on the rear so problem solved, except for the door. My floor is a little off I guess, maybe I'm a half a bubble off also, my wife
will agree I think.

Rye Crane
Pittsburg, Ca.