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Thread: Poor resaw results with Rikon 14" 10-325 bandsaw

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    9,447
    Quote Originally Posted by Dewayne Reding View Post
    Van
    I was concerned the plastic knob might break.
    We may have coaxed you into too high a tension... I would ask how much the blade deflects when you push it laterally BUT it is so subjective that is is almost worthless unless you have to really push hard to get 1/4" or so of deflection then it is definitely to tight. I setup a 10-325 for a friend of mine with a standard carbon Lenox flexback 3/4" blade (must say not a fan of the guides, though quite frankly there aren't many saws I really like the stock guides on) and I didn't feel it was too much trouble to crank the tension on properly.

    Tension is such a feel thing, even if the saw scales were accurate for one thickness of band it wouldn't be for a thicker or thinner band, nor could it be accurate for carbon and bimetal or carbide tipped blades. Unless and until someone brings a tension meter to market designed for the 0-30,000 PSI range it still remains a matter of gut and feel.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Quad Cities, Iowa
    Posts
    323
    [QUOTE=Van Huskey;1601329]We may have coaxed you into too high a tension... I would ask how much the blade deflects when you push it laterally BUT it is so subjective that is is almost worthless unless you have to really push hard to get 1/4" or so of deflection then it is definitely to tight. QUOTE]

    I seriously think the saw might tip over before the blade deflects 1/4". It is VERY firm at only 1/8" with the upper guide sitting 6" off the table. I am guessing that is too tight so I backed her off a tad and will try some more oak tomorrow. And thanks for posting the blade thread. I think I will order a bimetal 1/2" blade as I think I have enough resawing to wear out the blades I have.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    Yep, too tight. Sorry I goaded you into that. Bimetal blades are indeed the most economical for blades you use often if you can find the variety you need since they are not made in near the selection that carbon blades are.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,551
    I traded emails before and after I bought my MM-16 with the author of the book to which you were referred. His reply when I asked him about blades was that Timberwolf might be sharper than bi-metal blades but the bi-metal blades outlasted the others by a factor of 5-6 times.. I own only bi-metal blades.
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 01-05-2011 at 1:21 AM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    1,417
    When I run into resaw problems with my band saw, my plan is to:
    1. re-read my Duginske
    2. purchase Van Huskey a ticket to Phoenix, a bottle of scotch and other bribeage
    3. set up some sort of SMC outing or other as an excuse to get him to fix my saw.

    Don't tell him...
    Thread on "How do I pickup/move XXX Saw?" http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=597898

    Compilation of "Which Band Saw to buy?" threads http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...028#post692028

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Dewayne Reding View Post
    I am torquing on the tension knob with a lot of force, and it seems to be necessary on my early results. I was concerned the plastic knob might break.
    You are releasing the tension, with the quick tension release, before changing your tension settings, right? Change your tension, then reset the quick release.
    My favorite cologne is BLO

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