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Thread: Overhead Dust collection drop to Table saw

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Woodstock, GA
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    Overhead Dust collection drop to Table saw

    Newbie to the site but have been reviewing the tons of great info (and photos) on dust collectors/setups and it has really helped me with the design.

    Moved into a new house and have a 15x ~35' space. After reading and pricing have decided on the Grizzly G0440 cyclone and will be running 6" pvc.

    I plan to run the ducting along the wall/ceiling and then across the room and out into the middle as needed for things liek my table saw.

    So I'm looking for some guidance on where to place the drop for the table saw. I THINK it makes sense to run it toward one of the back corners of the saw, but which one? Pardon my ignorance as this may be a stupid question. My reflex is that is should be back right but does anyone have experience or opinions on this? (yeah, I said the magic word, opinions! )

    Thanks in advance for any input!

    Joel G

  2. #2
    Joel,

    Welcome to the Creek. Lots of good, knowledgeable people here. The experts will soon chime in. I have learned a great deal from my following the threads.

    The back/right is logical. Try to run hard piping as low as you can go before switching to flex. As you know, this will keep friction loss to a minimum. Are you also planning on a table top pickup also from the blade guard? You could then make a single drop split to support both the top and bottom.

    Have you looked into the ClearVue cyclone? Lots of satisfied users on the Creek. Although the Grizzly G0440 is an excellent choice if it will support your particular tools and way of working.

    Paul

  3. #3
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    I have a 6x5x4 wye at the back right of my TS. One serves the TS and the other is for my Excalibur blade guard. The back left side would be in the way since it is too close to the blade and outfeed area. Problem solved!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Wilmington, NC
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    I have just hooked up my cyclone to my TS. I put my drop at the back left, as that was the side of the dust port at the bottom of the saw. I also ran a 2 1/2" line off of that same drop, to my shark guard on top of the blade. I was worried about it being in the way, but so far it has worked fine and I love the dust pick up that I get from the shark guard. It is amazing how much dust flies up as the blade come up out of the wood. I have had to cut half way through some plywood pieces, pull it out and then cut the other side, due to the 4" line being in the way, but most times it is fine. I may have to come up with a quick dis-connect to this line, so I can cross cut bigger pieces without the line being in the way.

  5. #5
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    I go to the back right but, my mast for my overarm is already there ;-) In my shop the area to the right of my saw is no-man's-land; ducting, electrical, cyclone, etc.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Jul 2008
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    Noblesville, IN
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    I've not been able to post my new piping run yet for my shop... but here's a sneak peek at my table saw setup


    P1050170 - Copy (768x1024).jpg P1050168 - Copy (768x1024).jpg P1050169 - Copy (1024x768).jpg P1050171 - Copy (768x1024).jpg

  7. #7
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    Wow, wow, wow. Thank you guys so much. It is very cool to get so many responses so quickly and from folks that have ben there arelady. Thanks William and Glenn for the photos. A picture is definitely worth a thousand.
    Have to work tomorrow but off to get some ducting on friday and hopefully get things going soon!
    THanks guys!

  8. #8
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    Aug 2005
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    Northern New Jersey
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    I like the back right as to minimize any obstruction moving large stock around in the vicinity of the saw. Also, if you mount something permanently affixed to the walls or ceiling with rigid duct, you may prohibit the mobility of the saw. I, like many others, have small home shops whereby keeping things mobile is important.

    By the way, if you are also new to woodworking, you sure did your homework as far as the system components you selected.

    -Jeff
    Thank goodness for SMC and wood dough.

  9. #9
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    I like the setup glen. Clustering the machines makes sense. Is that an original design on the overhead for your saw or did you buy it.

    Thanks

    Joel

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I go to the back right but, my mast for my overarm is already there ;-) In my shop the area to the right of my saw is no-man's-land; ducting, electrical, cyclone, etc.
    Glenn, is that a home-brew blade guard and overarm?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joel Griffies View Post
    I like the setup glen. Clustering the machines makes sense. Is that an original design on the overhead for your saw or did you buy it.

    Thanks

    Joel
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Maiers View Post
    Glenn, is that a home-brew blade guard and overarm?
    That is the inexpensive PennState model that I picked up back when I had a contractor saw. It is simple but well made and has worked as designed for years. It turns out I don't do much with sheet goods so when I upgraded saws I didn't bother to upgrade the overarm. It works well with the 2HP cyclone but, was pretty worthless with my previous smaller DC.

    If you are going to be doing a lot of work where you can use an overarm, I would look at the Excalibur or other arm with larger ducting. This one is reduced to 3" at the horizontal and works adequately for the limited work I do where it is employed. Don't get me wrong, I am glad to have it. If it came into play more often I would probably just modify it to accept a 4" duct since I already have it. If I knew I would do a lot of large panel cutting or long-run ripping, I would upgrade to a larger unit.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 01-06-2011 at 8:50 AM.

  12. #12
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    As previously mentioned, I have a 6x5x4 wye at the back-right side of my TS. The 4” line that feeds my Excalibur BG is connected with Rockler’s Dust Right (I think that’s what they call it) system. It allows me to quickly disconnect the line and attach it to my router table and FMT. It also allows me to clean off my outfeed table. I love the setup!

  13. #13
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    My opinion is just off the right rear corner. Make sure the pipe is not in the way of ripping/crosscutting with the fence to it's furthest spot. Otherwise, if it is in the way, you just reduced the capacity of your saw. Left corner? Again, in the way, especially cutting down sheet goods, if you do that on your saw...I do. Some people put their TS against the wall on the right side and that way the pipe can be on the floor if need be.
    The biggest improvement Grizzly did when they brought out the G0690/691 saws is that the dust port is on the right side (correct side!! ) of the saw. Not the back side, not the left side as saws have been in the past. It and It's Laguna cousin are the only saws I've seen with this feature. Not really sure who did the design work for this, but I'd like to buy them a soda. Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...Exclusively Irish! When Irish Eyes are smiling....They're usually up to something!!
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  14. #14
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    I ran 6" main to end of outfeed table and have 3- 4" lines coming off for table saw and floor sweap. 002 (3)_crop.jpg
    Last edited by eugene thomas; 01-06-2011 at 11:49 PM.

  15. #15
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    William,

    Nice setup. Is that 5" or 6" flex to your TS lower dust port? Looks like 4" to your Shark Guard and is that a 7" main duct run? I am into the design phase for mine. Looking at a 3" drop for a yet to be purchased shark guard.

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