Overhead Dust collection drop to Table saw

[Bob Riefer]

Can I piggy back with a related question?

Understanding that 6" is preferred, but since I'm using free 4" PVC for my main and drops... Can I still do an overhead drop to the top of my cabinet saw? I was planning on a 4" pipe from beneath the table into the cabinet with some sort of "funnel" beneath the blade to direct the dust into that pipe, and from a separate branch that's passing above my saw to the other side of my shop reduce down to a shop vac hose (I think that's 2.5") to the blade guard. The run from my HF 2 HP DC to both of these locations is about 12 feet.

[William Long]

William,

Nice setup. Is that 5" or 6" flex to your TS lower dust port? Looks like 4" to your Shark Guard and is that a 7" main duct run? I am into the design phase for mine. Looking at a 3" drop for a yet to be purchased shark guard.

Ole,

It's a 7" main duct down to 4" for the Shark Guard and 5" flex to the TS & Joiner. I had to make my own connections for the TS and Joiner, as they had 4" as usually. NO dust at all in the air! Pipe and connectors all from Spiral Mfg.

[Bruce Seidner]

I've not been able to post my new piping run yet for my shop... but here's a sneak peek at my table saw setup


Attachment 176463 Attachment 176464 Attachment 176465 Attachment 176466

Am I missing something? How do you prevent the guard from moving laterally. I don't see any support other than the duct hanging from the ceiling. I like the idea of no other mechanicals but can't imagine how this would work. Enlighten me.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Can I piggy back with a related question?

Understanding that 6" is preferred, but since I'm using free 4" PVC for my main and drops... Can I still do an overhead drop to the top of my cabinet saw? I was planning on a 4" pipe from beneath the table into the cabinet with some sort of "funnel" beneath the blade to direct the dust into that pipe, and from a separate branch that's passing above my saw to the other side of my shop reduce down to a shop vac hose (I think that's 2.5") to the blade guard. The run from my HF 2 HP DC to both of these locations is about 12 feet.

Bob...I had s similar set up many years ago using 4" duct and its performance was poor. Mostly because a tablesaw with above and below dust collection is one of those tools in my shop that really benefits from 6" duct all the way to the dust collector as to make it truly functional.

I will also go as far to say that the lower port on most tablesaws (that is, the ones that do not have a specifically designed blade dust shroud) is underwhelming in performance whereby warranting an overarm collection device. I've experienced this and have read many other folks complaining about it. In fact, I believe this forum and others have influenced manufacturers to add dust shrouds as a result.

My recommendation would be to upgrade the duct to 6". This was the most significant improvement in perfomance in my home system that I've experienced with a 2hp collector.

Jeff

[Ole Anderson]

My guess is that the TS is the main producer of FINE dust in your shop, (presuming you have a downdraft table for sanding) because of the lack of topside collection, the open front where the lift wheel swings for mitering, and the usual lack of an internal dust shroud. The high speed of the blade with typically 60 teeth spinning 4000 rpm making 240,000 cuts per minute makes for fine dust, particularly when crosscutting. Sure the planer creates a huge volume of chips, but not much dust because of a cleaner cut and only about 20,000 cuts per minute, and you are never crosscutting. Now maybe if you use your router a lot without any dust collection...

And I agree that using 4" mains, just because it is free, is a mistake. Go to the BORG and price a 5' length of 26 gauge snap lock 6" galvanized duct and you will see that it isn't a big deal, well under $2 per foot. A 4" duct will only carry 350 cfm at most for any distance. Not enough for your bigger machines. And you strangle your powerfull 1200 cfm collector. This is why I will go with 7" mains like William did and Bill Pentz recommends in order to carry 1000 cfm.

[Joel Griffies]

I ran 6" main to end of outfeed table and have 3- 4" lines coming off for table saw and floor sweap. Attachment 176780

Very cool Setup Eugene. Love that Excalibur. Just curious, is it moveable without much trouble if you want to work on that table in another way?

THanks!

Joel

[Jim Tobias]

Joel,
Here is an earlier link about overhead support for a Shark Guard. May be some ideas in this.

Jim

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t=#post1548270

[eugene thomas]

004_crop.jpg001_crop.jpgit can be moved out of way with flip of the locking lever. all i do is lock guard up so cleares the splitter and swing back.

[William Long]

Am I missing something? How do you prevent the guard from moving laterally. I don't see any support other than the duct hanging from the ceiling. I like the idea of no other mechanicals but can't imagine how this would work. Enlighten me.

Well, that's a lot of pipe in my shop and with it all connected together it's pretty solid. Also, if you look at the drop at the back of the saw it's connected to the floor via a 5" cap and flange. I could climb it if I wanted .

[Philip Rodriquez]

The excalibur just swings out of the way. It has a pivot point at the end of the table.

[Rick Moyer]

Well, that's a lot of pipe in my shop and with it all connected together it's pretty solid. Also, if you look at the drop at the back of the saw it's connected to the floor via a 5" cap and flange. I could climb it if I wanted .

Am I missing something? How do you prevent the guard from moving laterally. I don't see any support other than the duct hanging from the ceiling. I like the idea of no other mechanicals but can't imagine how this would work. Enlighten me.

Bruce, I am still confused as well.
William, what is keeping the over-the-blade guard from moving side to side?

[William Long]

Bruce, I am still confused as well.
William, what is keeping the over-the-blade guard from moving side to side?

Sorry, I miss read.

It's a Shark Guard with a 4" attachment and knife. So it's attached to the TS. Does that help?

[Kent A Bathurst]

I don't have an overarm connection - just the one for the cabinet. I run the 5" metal pipe across the floor to the TS. Been there 7 years. Haven't tripped on it in 6 years.

My shop space is tight. If I had a vertical drop, it would interfere with any number of things - moving lumber, getting sheet goods to the TS, etc. Plus - I have my 52" fence/table, and the outfeed table, "squared off" so there is roughly 6' x 6' flat area for finishing + assy. A vertical drop would get in the way of those tasks also.

Not recommending my solution. Just an alternative if there is on overarm collection. The pipe on the floor really, honestly, no-foolin' doesn't get in the way. Well, not for 6 years and counting. Spouse + visiting neighbors know there are many sneaky traps in the shop, including pipe on the floor. Be ware, or keep out.

[Rick Moyer]

Sorry, I miss read.

It's a Shark Guard with a 4" attachment and knife. So it's attached to the TS. Does that help?

I hate to sound really stupid but WTH: So the Shark Guard attaches to the riving knife, thereby making it stationary? That would make sense then. Sorry, but I haven't looked into the different over the blade options yet as far as how they mount. From your pic, it seems like the shroud is just hanging down from the flex hose with no means of attachment. I guess I should look how a Shark Guard mounts.

[Paul Cameron]

Glenn, nice install on the G0440. I'm looking at the same unit and was wondering about its ability to mount the intake port in any position desired (rotation). Your picture indicates this is possible. Any further comment? I also plan to mount the filter assembly on a separate wall (to make it fit the space better). Do you seen any issue with this outside of maybe getting a longer flex hose?

Thanks,

Paul