Best Remotes for 220v Dust collector

[Joel Griffies]

In the process of seting up a basement shop and working on laying out dust collection. I have decided on a Grizzly G0440 2hp cyclone and will run duct to it but my question is about remotes.

I plan to build a separate room to hosue the DC and my compressor so there will not be line-of-sight for the sensor to "see" the IR remote. Suggestions?

I have previously used X10 home controllers for my shop vac but this unit will be on 220 switch. Should I try to locate the switch outside the enclosed room so that the remote can see it, or is there another method that works with 220v systems?

Thanks

Joel

[David Christopher]

I use the H5397 from Grizzly......it will work outside the line of sight

[Joel Griffies]

Thanks Dave. Hadn't come across that one yet. I wil check it out.
Joel

[Bernie Kopfer]

I would recomend using gates that turn the DC on and off. That way you will never spend time looking for the remote. The cost will not be that much more and the convienience is well worth the time to install and run the wires.

[Lance Norris]

This is one of the best options going, make sure you have a mechanical switch you can leave "ON" and not a magnetic starter type switch. If you have a mechanical switch, add the Long Ranger and you are good to go.

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworkin...4284317&sr=8-2

[David Hawxhurst]

i used a 110v remote that you would use for controlling a lamp (found at local hardware or borg don't remember). the remote controls a 220v relay to turn on the cyclone motor. (believe clearvue sells a 220 relay that can be controlled by 110v input).

[Chip Lindley]

The Long Ranger III is among the most heavy-duty of ready-made DC wireless controls. It will handle 20A which should control up to a 3hp motor. It uses a UHF signal rather than infrared, so it can be out of the line of sight and still work. A Long Ranger came with my pre-owned Oneida 3hp DC. It works great but the overload reset of the output unit had been removed because of nusiance trips from the 3hp motor. The LR should be fine with a 2hp DC system.

[Wayne Cannon]

I've used an X10 220V switch with a 4-button keychain remote for years and have been very happy with it. I have had to replace it twice in the 15 years I've been using it. The thing I like about the X10 system is the flexibility to use if for any number of other things, as well, such as turning on the floodlights between the house and shop when returning to the house after dark.

[Joel Griffies]

Thanks Wayne. Didnt realize X10 had a 220v switch. I have tons of X10 stuff and have been pretty happy with it, especially for the price.

Joel

[Rob Russell]

Even if you can't find an X10 220v switch, you can use a regular X10 110v switch to control a 2 pole contactor that has a 110v control coil. It's basically the same sort of thing that David Hawxhurst suggested, just a different remote.

[Joel Griffies]

Wayne, does your DC have a magnetic switch? I read in one of the posts that with one of the remotes it wouldnt work to turn th eunit back on once it was off if it had a magnetic switch....

Thanks

Joel

[Michael Heffernan]

A remote won't work with a magnetic switch. I have a Jet DC1100 that had it's own remote, but it was an IR, line-of-sight remote which is basically pointless in a crowded shop. I bought the Long Ranger III, disconnected the Jet switch in the controller box (basically hard-wiring the unit to 'always on') and plugged it into the LR controller. The thing has great range. I've tested turning on the DC from outside the shop, up to 75 ft away. No problem.

Wayne, does your DC have a magnetic switch? I read in one of the posts that with one of the remotes it wouldnt work to turn th eunit back on once it was off if it had a magnetic switch....

Thanks

Joel

[Wayne Cannon]

That's a good point. I had a Jet 2 HP dust collector with which I used the X10 remote switch. I haven't yet attempted to remote my new cyclone. You cannot simply break the circuit for DCs with a magnetic switch. You can, however, use two of your X10 channels (or one of the X10 8- or 16-channel switches -- the kind used to control lawn sprinklers, etc.) to control two separate relays/contactors, one with a "make" contact for "On" and one with a "break" contact for "Off". Configure them for "momentary" mode, otherwise, they can defeat the purpose of the magnetic switch.

Frankly, I don't see a lot of benefit to a magnetic switch on a dust collector -- although my new one has one. Unlike a jointer, table saw, router, etc., there's not any significant safety hazard for it coming on unexpectedly after a power failure, though I wouldn't leave the shop following a power outage without turning it off or killing the circuit breaker.

[Greg Portland]

You can make your own using a dual pole contactor and RF remote. The remote provides the small amount of current to toggle the contactor. A cheap option for RF remote is for Christmas tree lights (especially now, they are all on sale). If you upgrade your DC to a larger motor you'll just need to change the contactor, not your entire system. I was able to find a used electrical box, the contactor, and remote for about the same price as a new Lone Ranger or similar system (but I feel that my solution is more flexible and beefier).

[Alan Lightstone]

Is it possible / safe to use a Long Ranger III remote to control a 240V/20 amp/5000 watt heater? I'm not sure what 3HP converts to in amps.