Bath Vanity Cab Design Question

[Jeff Wright]

I am building a new bath cabinet that will be 61 inches long, 20 inches deep and about 35 inches tall. It will have a granite top and built of 7/8 inch thick poplar rails and stiles for the front (face frame style) and 3/4 inch maple ply for the ends and back and bottom. I want to put bun feet on it as shown here:

http://www.tablelegs.com/Bun-Feet/Co...nyBunFeet.aspx

My concern is that having a bun foot on each corner will not give adequate support for the entire length of the cabinet resulting in its sagging in the middle due to weight. If I were to put a third bun foot in the middle of the front length it would likely get in the way and people would continually kick it. Does anyone have any thoughts about how to design the supporting frame to carry the load using only four bun feet (one at each of the four cabinet corners)? In addition to a full length bottom panel of 3/4 inch ply I was thinking of installing a wide (and 7/8 inch thick) poplar web frame under the entire cab and installing the bun feet tenons through that and into the 3/4 inch ply bottom as well. Thanks for your comments.

[Gordon Harner]

The need for a center support really is a function of the loading of the case. If the sink is centered it may need support in the center. If ther is a drawer stack it might need support also. You may want ot consider a deeply set back toe kick like structure behing the feet. In my house this feature would make cleaning under it easier too. (Cat toys etc.)

I have one concern on the depth. Do you already have the sink? Have you considered placement of the faucet? Just my 2 cents.

[Jeff Wright]

The need for a center support really is a function of the loading of the case. If the sink is centered it may need support in the center. If ther is a drawer stack it might need support also. You may want ot consider a deeply set back toe kick like structure behing the feet. In my house this feature would make cleaning under it easier too. (Cat toys etc.)

I have one concern on the depth. Do you already have the sink? Have you considered placement of the faucet? Just my 2 cents.

Thanks Gordon. Great points. The sink will be installed on the right-hand side and the left two thirds will house two stacks of four five-inch high drawers. I know what you mean about the cat toys: we have one cat and two playful Cavalier King Charles Spaniels (and six grown children and six grand kids!). Just the weight of the granite counter top is a lot of weight in itself.

[Lee Schierer]

The face frame will act to stiffen the front and the bottom panel. Install a similar vertical rib at the back of the cabinet and you should not see any sagging. I'm not a fan of open bottom vanities. Dust and stuff tends to accumulate under them as no one wants to get down on their hands and knees to clean under the cabinet. If you want the Bun foot look consider faux bun feet with a standard toe kick set back an inch or so more than standard along the front and sides witht he bun feet notched and set at the corners. This will give your bottom panel support full length and eliminate the cleaning issue.

This vanity started out from a design that had bun feet. LOML didn't like the cleaning problem so I made a toe kick style base for it. It is a 48" vanity and it has not sagged in over 12 years of use.

[Jeff Wright]

The face frame will act to stiffen the front and the bottom panel. Install a similar vertical rib at the back of the cabinet and you should not see any sagging. I'm not a fan of open bottom vanities. Dust and stuff tends to accumulate under them as no one wants to get down on their hands and knees to clean under the cabinet. If you want the Bun foot look consider faux bun feet with a standard toe kick set back an inch or so more than standard along the front and sides witht he bun feet notched and set at the corners. This will give your bottom panel support full length and eliminate the cleaning issue.

This vanity started out from a design that had bun feet. LOML didn't like the cleaning problem so I made a toe kick style base for it. It is a 48" vanity and it has not sagged in over 12 years of use.

Lee, I guess great minds think alike! I have considered installing the traditional toe-kick but setting it back a bit and then attaching the bun feet for appearance only. The back and left side of the cabinet will be attached to the walls, so that will add some strength and rigidity. I feel the 3/4-inch thick back should give at least as much support as the vertical rib you suggest, correct? Thanks for your comments.

[Troy Ahner]

I have a large book case/entertainment center with an open bottom (and an open back). When moving it recently I noted that the bottom was supported with a piece of angle iron that ran the length. One flange flat to the bottom and screwed in, one flange pointing down. This was set about 1/3 of the distance from the front and was invisible. As long as you set it back from your viewing angle, it won't be noticed.