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Thread: biesemeyer fence installation question

  1. #1
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    biesemeyer fence installation question

    Setting up my new unisaw w/ Biesemeyer fence(pics in previous post)and trying to attach the front fence rail to the table top.It attaches with two screws and nuts into the front of the main saw table. There is included with the fence an adjustment gauge that is used to determine the height of the front rail in relation to the top.. I cant get the rail high enough to match this template.Also the measurement is supposed to be 2 27/32", which I cannot achieve because the holes in the saw dont allow me to raise the rail high enough. Is this crucial to the installation that this be that exact?Or is parrallel to the top more important?Anyone else run into this problem?What do you think I should do?

  2. #2
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    Hi Dale,

    I just finished installing my Biesmeyer (or General) fence on my new 350 tablesaw. On my saw I used the adjustment gage and the 2 holes in the main table did match up. I had to drill the other holes in the wings, not a problem with a 1/4" drill. On the back of the saw, 2 holes were threaded and they matched up with the "rail". I had to drill 2 more holes into the wings as well.
    I think you will need to drill some holes in the table I know that sounds scary!! I'm sure there are others in the group who have a new Unisaw that will chime in.

    Jim
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by dale rex
    Setting up my new unisaw w/ Biesemeyer fence(pics in previous post)and trying to attach the front fence rail to the table top.It attaches with two screws and nuts into the front of the main saw table. There is included with the fence an adjustment gauge that is used to determine the height of the front rail in relation to the top.. I cant get the rail high enough to match this template.Also the measurement is supposed to be 2 27/32", which I cannot achieve because the holes in the saw dont allow me to raise the rail high enough. Is this crucial to the installation that this be that exact?Or is parrallel to the top more important?Anyone else run into this problem?What do you think I should do?
    Dale, how far off is it? The fence needs to ride on the tube top as well as the table top so it needs to be fairly close. You could add shims between the fence tube & rail to raise the tube but I would be talking to Delta before I did that!
    Please help support the Creek.


    "The older I get, the better I used to be."
    Lee Trevino


  4. #4
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    thanks for the reply Jim and Bruce...... my instructions show only using the two screws in the front of the saw table the rest of them go into the laminated extension table( there are no other holes in the cast iron top or wings). I think that only having two screws into the cast top is not really enough. Seems like the way you did yours with more screws holding the rail into the saw top is more stable. I didnt really measure the distance that the rail is off yet, it is not really alot(maybe 1/16" or less. I did dry fit the tube and tried the fence, and it is a little low on the table and does rub at the front (where the rail is low). I might have to drill the holes in the front of the saw table a little oversize to get the rail up a little more, I cant change the holes in the rail itself because they are countersunk holes.
    Last edited by dale rex; 01-09-2005 at 7:55 PM.

  5. #5
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    Dale, my Unisaw only has the two screws into the table top and I have never had any problems with the rail/tube moving. As I recall, they are pretty hefty 5/16-18 bolts.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "The older I get, the better I used to be."
    Lee Trevino


  6. #6
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    Dale,

    On the General TS there are 4 holes predrilled in the main table not 2. So I have 6 bolts in the table saw and 4 more in the extension table. I would give Delta a call and see if they can help you out.
    Let us know what you find out.

    Jim


    Quote Originally Posted by dale rex
    thanks for the reply Jim and Bruce...... my instructions show only using the two screws in the front of the saw table the rest of them go into the laminated extension table( there are no other holes in the cast iron top or wings). I think that only having two screws into the cast top is not really enough. Seems like the way you did yours with more screws holding the rail into the saw top is more stable. I didnt really measure the distance that the rail is off yet, it is not really alot(maybe 1/16" or less. I did dry fit the tube and tried the fence, and it is a little low on the table and does rub at the front (where the rail is low). I might have to drill the holes in the front of the saw table a little oversize to get the rail up a little more, I cant change the holes in the rail itself because they are countersunk holes.

  7. #7
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    i measured the distance that I have to move the rail up and it is about 1/16". I can probably remedy the situation by filing the hole in the saw table 1/16" higher so I can raise the rail. But I think I will call Delta and see what they have to say.

  8. #8
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    Dale, one othe note, if you do add additional screws to the rail/table top, you will also have to counter-sink them in order for the fence to be able to pass by.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "The older I get, the better I used to be."
    Lee Trevino


  9. #9
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    thanks for all the responses....If I do add more screws to the front rail, the extra holes are already in the rail and countersunk. All I would have to do is drill the saw table or extension wings for the screws. I will call Delta and see what they say tomorrow.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dale rex
    thanks for all the responses....If I do add more screws to the front rail, the extra holes are already in the rail and countersunk. All I would have to do is drill the saw table or extension wings for the screws. I will call Delta and see what they say tomorrow.

    Dale, when I got my new PM-66 about 14 years ago, I also had to use a rat tail file and elongate the two holes on the top side of the holes to get my Biese to mount high enough to match the guage. I then drilled holes in the TS top centered in each of the drilled and countersunk holes in the rails and put the machine screws and nuts in each one. I, like you didn't feel that two was enough, and also, since the two holes original holes were now elongated, I felt it could possibly slip down, but with the other holes drilled for a snug fit, it cannot move, and I have never had any problem with it since the installation. I've even tilted the saw by using the rails as handles to get it up on a dolly to move it before I built my mobile base, and it didn't affect it in any way.

    NOTE: You really should install it so it matches the guage so the fence will ride the rail properly.

    Congrats on the new saw, and good luck with the install.

  11. #11
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    called Woodcraft today(where I purchased the saw)and they were very well informed about assembling these saws. The gentleman that I talked to told me to file out the holes, so I went down and filed the holes with a rat tail file and viola! it fits now! I am so relieved that a few short minutes with a simple file fixed this minor problem. The fence now has the proper clearance over the table and glides wonderfully. I still have to finish assembling the extension table and adjusting everything, so it will be awhile till I get it running.( I did fire it up a few times just to listen to that purrrrrrr)

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