Thinnest cut on bandsaw

[chiesa dan]

Hi all,
i'm waiting for my new bandsaw to be delivered, and i'm trying to get a few blades while i wait.
One question regarding thin kerf: i make guitars and to make the bindings i laminate a small board of indian rosewood (3/16"x3"x31") with 3 alternating veneers (maple-rosewood-maple). Since it's some work and material, i really like to get as many slices (7/64") out of it.
So far, since my bandsaw was pretty sloppy, i was using my tablesaw with a metal cutting blade, with a total cut of 1mm or 0.9mm. Problem is, i had to sharpen it every small board, otherwise it started wandering in the cut for being dull. So much so, that i lately started using a very thin kerf carbide disc, but the total cut is now 1.3mm. To me it does make a difference.
So now, with the new BS, a Hammer N4400, i'm thinking to get a thin blade to rip those bindings, but i'm not sure what the best option is. Locally, i can get Starrett blades, and in the catalog i see a few interesting options:

3/8" x .014 either 6tpi skip or 14tpi regular
1/2" x .020 either 10tpi reg. or 14tpi reg.

I was thinking to get the 1/2" 10tpi; the reasoning being that a slightly thicker and wider blade might offset the thinner blade's advantage cutting straighter and cleaner. The 14tpi seemed too much though for almost 1/4" of rosewood.
Do you think that's correct, or i could save a little more material with the 3/8" 6tpi? What total kerf should i expect with both? Any other thoughts?
I hope that in some way i will be able to get a slice or two more with the bandsaw than i'm getting with the TS...
Thanks a lot for all the suggestions,
Daniele.

[Lance Norris]

Just a comment... You can narrow the kerf by taking the "set" out of the blade. It will cause the blade to cut slowly, but it can be done. I have done it to a few blades to narrow the kerf for bandsawn boxes. Take the blade and twist it inside out and install it on the saw with the teeth pointing up(OPPOSITE THE NORMAL CUTTING DIRECTION) tension the blade and run the saw. Take a sharpening stone or a stone made for rounding the backside of a bandsaw blade and hold it against the side of the running blade, litterally grinding off the edge of the teeth that are sticking out. BE CAREFUL, KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR, AND EXPECT IT TO BE NOISY AND SPARKY. DONT RUN A DUST COLLECTOR WHEN DOING THIS MOD. Do both sides. This will cause the blade to be narrower, but will limit its ability to cut curves. It will be a blade you will use for one specific operation, making as small a kerf cut as possible. After you mod the blade, twist it again, and reinstall with the teeth pointing down in the normal direction and tension and use.

Whether you want to try this is up to you, but it is a fairly common mod done to blades.

[Van Huskey]

Since it's some work and material, i really like to get as many slices (7/64") out of it.

This is the best blade I have found for what you want and are doing:

http://www.spectrumsupply.com/kerfmaster-2.aspx

I would suggest the .016" 3/4 pitch 5/8" for your work.

Very thin with minimal set. Be aware the .014/.016/.025 etc you see is NOT the kerf but the thickness of the band. The Kerfmaster blade I linked to is a hardened spring steel blade with little set, thus a very thin kerf. The wider 5/8" blade and variable pitch both will help you get a very nice finish that will reduce waste when you clean them up before use. The spring steel blades have a lot of positives for your use but do have some downsides. You can find more info on that and other types of blades here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hlight=bandsaw

[chiesa dan]

Thanks for the tip, Lance; i do worry though not to be able to control how much set i take off this way, since i would want to save a little for an easier cut. Also, i think i could end up with a blade that wants to cut more on one side than the other. Still, i'll try with a cheap blade.

Van, i saw the kerfmaster before and thought it might be just what i need; if you say it has little set, i think that's it. I understand that what i see in the specs is the band thickness, hance my doubts: for any given blade i can't really know what the final cut will be (and i do understand it also depends on factors other than the blade itself).

Daniele.

[Van Huskey]

for any given blade i can't really know what the final cut will be (and i do understand it also depends on factors other than the blade itself).

Daniele.

That is a frustration for many of us when it comes to bandsaw blades. Kerf is important in some cases like yours, instrument makes are often extremely interested in reducing waste as well. I generally cut veneer with either a Laguna Resaw King or Lenox Trimaster but have a couple of Kerfmaster blades for those times when waste is critical. These types of blades are extremely sharp, leave a good finish BUT dull rather quickly but there isn't anything else that does this specific job better.