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Thread: Price of adding 1 or 2 220 circuits

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Jarrett Vibert View Post
    Current kills but voltage gives it an easier time.
    True, but the reason we use two out-of-phase 120V lines to generate 240V is because it minimizes any additional danger that might be present when dealing with a higher voltage. You can touch either leg and only "see" 120V to ground. Thus, unless you happen to touch both hot legs at the same time (awfully unlikely, if you are being even remotely careful), the statement I made earlier ("there is nothing MORE difficult or dangerous about it") is true. I point this out because too many people seem to think that 120V wiring is something they would readily tackle, but 240V is "scary", when in fact, they are almost exactly the same.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jarrett Vibert View Post
    but don't for a moment consider energizing the circuit until it's been inspected.
    As George points out, many (most?) jurisdictions allow a homeowner to do electrical work within their own residence without permit or inspection. He's just adding a few outlets - what would there be to inspect? Make sure all the screws are tight, and you used the right gauge wire, and....? Anything else? I can't think of anything.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    As George points out, many (most?) jurisdictions allow a homeowner to do electrical work within their own residence without permit or inspection. He's just adding a few outlets - what would there be to inspect? Make sure all the screws are tight, and you used the right gauge wire, and....? Anything else? I can't think of anything.
    Well, you need to understand wiring to the panel. My son put a neutral to a post that had a ground when he added a circuit for a Insinkerator. That is why I said "competent DIYer". Before I wired anything in my shop I spent a fair amount of time reading up on the subject...as stated earlier there are numerous sources.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post

    As George points out, many (most?) jurisdictions allow a homeowner to do electrical work within their own residence without permit or inspection. He's just adding a few outlets - what would there be to inspect? Make sure all the screws are tight, and you used the right gauge wire, and....? Anything else? I can't think of anything.
    Well, wire type, suitable for purpose and installed properly, mechanical protection for wire if required, rating of devices, correct type of box connectors, correct placement of staples if required, correct grounding and bonding, correct box type and volume..........and on it goes.

    Where I live, inspection is required for all work, regardless of who does it. As an Electrical Technologist, believe me, I've seen stuff done by home owners and tradesmen that you wouldn't believe, and that wouldn't pass inspection.

    Regards, Rod.

  4. #19
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    In a previous residence we found a 50 amp plug on a 30 amp circuit and a green wire used as the hot wire. An electrician did a lot of corrections for us. I'm not going to read up and try it on my own.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  5. #20
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    Today I installed a 20 amp 220 volt outlet for my soon to be delivered 2 hp dust collector. Cost me $54.00 for 50 feet of 12-2 wg, a two pole breaker, a handy box, cover and a NEMA 6-20 outlet. And a couple of hours fishing wires through joists and rearranging some breakers in my 200 amp house panel. If you do your own work, it is a good idea to pick up a copy and get familiar with the current NEC Pocket Guide to Residential Electrical Installations.

  6. #21
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    I just had a new home built with a connected shop. It wasn't a whole bunch more so I had 3 installed. I have one on the back deck, and 2 in the shop. For some reason I want to say it ran about $225.00. Lets see here.....Lathe plugs into one, don't have a hotub yet.....Could probably plug in a bandsaw to the one on the back deck, and have room for one more tool in the shop........
    "There is nothing more dangerous than a resourcful idiot".....Dilbert

  7. #22
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    Brian, before moving to Fallbrook a couple years ago I had a 30 amp 220 volt circuit and two 20 amp 110 volt circuits added to my garage in Simi Valley (in Southern California for those who don't know). He used some open spaces in the house panel at one end of the garage and installed the 220 plug and two 110 plugs a the other end. The other 110 circuit was used for adding several ceiling plugs. He also made me a pigtail for the 5 hp SawStop that I was planning to order at the time (that's why I needed the new 220 circuit. I believe, due to the high price of copper at the time, that my cost was around $900. Your job should be substantially less. You don't seem to need a long run of wire like I did. Yes, I know that a lot of people out there do their own electrical work, but I wanted to make sure there were no problems when we sold the house. Even my new shop in Fallbrook was wired by a local electrical contractor. I was too busy installing flooring and doing other projects, besides he knew what he was doing.
    Don Bullock
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  8. #23
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    another +1 for DIY

    Deciding to do it yourself is a much easier decision to make if you have a main breaker that will turn off the power while you add either a circuit to the main box for a sub-panel or just add the circuits directly to the main box. I opted for the sub-panel because that gives me the flexibility to add additional circuits should I want to. The main breaker makes it less threatening to work in the box.

    AND... Always check that the power is actually off before doing anything. I have been amazed at how many miswired circuits, bad connections, and failed devices I have found in the 6 houses I have owned.

  9. #24
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    a main breaker that will turn off the power while you add either a circuit to the main box
    Oh man, where is the excitement in that, working in a panel that is dead?

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Anderson View Post
    Oh man, where is the excitement in that, working in a panel that is dead?
    If it's a main panel the lugs will still be energized.

  11. #26
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    Brian

    While it is true that it "can be easy" if you have experience, there are more variables involved, it's not always as simple as dropping a breaker into an open slot, and yanking wire. I think you're better hiring it out.

    Someday you will sell your home, and an experienced inspector would be able to read your panel like a book. Any code violations in the panel will stick out like a sore thumb. Pay now, or potentially pay later.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    True, but the reason we use two out-of-phase 120V lines to generate 240V is because it minimizes any additional danger that might be present when dealing with a higher voltage. You can touch either leg and only "see" 120V to ground. Thus, unless you happen to touch both hot legs at the same time (awfully unlikely, if you are being even remotely careful), the statement I made earlier ("there is nothing MORE difficult or dangerous about it") is true. I point this out because too many people seem to think that 120V wiring is something they would readily tackle, but 240V is "scary", when in fact, they are almost exactly the same.
    That's the reason why systems utilize 240v...? really...? It has nothing to do with power consumption, or the addition load that type of system can handle...? The only time 240v is safer, is when it's within a floating system. It's extremely easy to touch both phases when working within a panel. They're also in very close proximity within the recepticle box or cord end, if you happen to be doing something bone headed.

    Yes the installation methodology is the same, however it is more dangerous, that's why I replied, and why some advice by a diy'er to a diy'er in these circumstances torques my gears.

    As far as the lack of inspection in some areas.... Well I wasn't aware that the local government was so ignorant in regards to public safety in some parts of the States. However can anyone tell me of the top of your head, if the inspection is required in the OP's area? Rules/regs are diff everwhere you go. Pros tend to suggest the best course of action, because it's the safest route. If it ends up being excessive and unwarranted, at the worst you end up ahead of the game.

    At this point I'm trying to figure out why the pro diy crowd is pushing that option. The OP has clearly stated that he does not feel comfortable with that approach. Safety first, egos second...

  13. #28
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    Up until a year ago I didn't feel that comfortable working with anything higher than 12V dc, and I think I will never feel comfortable working with line voltage, but at least now I know a little to do simple diy projects.

    I tackled my first diy project with the help of an electrician friend, reading up on wire/conduit sizing, and the electrical supplier. There are some monetary saving, but mostly it's in the knowledge gained.

    I always use a volt meter to double check and make sure the breakers are off before starting work. I also check for continuity to make sure I didn't cross connect any wires before turning on the breaker.

    Regardless of whether you diy or contract it out, you should still know enough to diy the project yourself if needed. Like others have pointed out, even inspected works done by licensed contractors does not mean they're done properly. I still need to fix a series of wall sockets that was not connected back to the main panel and florescent lights that linger after they've been switched off. This is in a building constructed less than 7 years ago.

  14. #29
    I kinda hate to get back to the original question, but..<Wink>. I had the electric work for my new shop quoated. Each 30 amp 220 line was about $250.00 and each 50 amp 220 line was about $300.00. Lot's of things factor into the price but this will give you a starting point for time and materials. I have since bought the wire and WOW copper is expensive. 150 bucks for 100' 6-2 and 100 bucks for 100' 8-2 adds up fast.

    Get some bids and go from there.

    Ian
    I create videos on my channel TurningRound on youtube.

  15. #30
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    Price must vary by location and local economy. In 2009 I had one 30 amp 220 circuit and two 20 amp 110 circuits run from open slots in a basement sub-panel to my garage by a local electric company. I also wanted a light and a switch in my attic so they pigtailed off electric lines for my garage door opener. It took 2 guys about 1 and a half hours and they charged a little less than $400. The wire run was probably no more than 20 feet. I put it off for a long time and was completely surprised about the cost. My best sources have been to ask friends who they use locally and I have had good luck following that practice.

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