Solid top or torsion box?

[Greg Urwiller]

I'm in the process of setting up my shop. I'm considering doing some Tom Clark style cabinets in an "L" shape going along a 13' wall span and then 6-8' on an adjoining wall. I'd like to incorporate my old Dewalt RAS, a mortise machine, maybe a benchtop drill press, and a wood vise into this setup. Although I'd really like to laminate a bunch of 2x stock for good solid top, I think that would be a bit overkill, so I'd probably go for a double thickness of ply or MDF for a solid type top. Then again, I've been wanting to do a torsion box type table for some time also. So, since this isn't going to be a table, would the ply/MDF be a better choice for the longer "L" shape run? I wondered if the torsion box top would be too thick in this case, cutting down on cabinet drawer space? Seems like the ply/MDF would be easier with the steps cut out for the various tools also? Any suggestions? Thanks. Greg

[George Bregar]

Greg, I'm a little unclear on what you want. If you are building cabinets why a need for a torsion box? Or was that a second choice? But MDF will be a fine surface (actually better, much cheaper and it will stay flat). Step cabinets down to accommodate your tools (I assume you want their beds level with the cabinet top). If you aren't dead set on building the cabinets, CL is a great source for cheap cabinets that are perfect for a shop. I got over 20' of base cabinets for $80. You can just bridge the section for a step down, or use the drawer area (assuming the typical drawer over door) for same. Hope I'm reading you right and this helps.

[Dave Houseal]

I agree with George, I'm not sure exactly what you're looking for.

If you this is going to serve as your workbench then having a section with a heavy duty laminated top could certainly be worthwhile, though It would be pointless, and rather expensive to do so for the whole run.

If you are going to use this as an area to setup machines and have the top serve as support for long work pieces that you're cutting to length, mortising, etc...then I'd probably just go MDF. I wouldn't even think that you would need to go double thickness for that.

I've had plywood workbench tops before and never liked them. As much as I hate working with MDF it does make a nice table top once its cut and you ventilate the dust out of your shop. :-D

Oh! And I think that most people use the torsion box tops for rolling cabinets and such. That way they stay flat even when they are on an uneven floor. If you install your cabinets level, I would expect your MDF top to stay reasonably flat since it won't be moving anywhere.

[Chris Padilla]

If you want a real cheap and quick benchtop, toss a few 2x12s on there. Go pick some nice ones at the borg, stack/sticker them so they stay flat, let 'em dry, toss 'em on the frame and you're done.

MDF is fine but unless you seal it good (just slop some cheap poly on it or wax it), it is likely to absorb moisture over time and it will warp. Or, better yet, laminate some formica over the MDF (seal all exposed MDF surfaces) and it'll last even longer.

The only place I'd consider a torsion box style top is if you want a nice flat surface to build on or reference to or if just want a flat surface regardless. The cool thing about most torsion boxes is that they are light yet strong. It doesn't sound like you need such a surface under your cabinets to me.

[Greg Urwiller]

Well, I was just hoping someone would make my decision for me LOL! It's funny though, you go over and over ways to do something like this, but can't make up your mind. Then go and write it out and it seems pretty clear! I've made one torsion box for a tall garage rolling cabinet base, and always figured on making a nice shop table with a torsion box top. But now that I've got the shop, I feel like I want the setup I described before, with some drawer type cabinets along the wall along with the tools I mentioned. After I wrote it all out I decided the torsion top was NOT the type to use here. So, I'll probably go with MDF or ply. I've had the 2x type before, but that was in an unheated garage, and I didn't like the movement of the top. I wouldn't have that problem now with a heated/ air conditioned setup. But I think I'd still like to have a solid type of top, so that would mean the sheet goods type. Now I really want it nice and solid, so wouldn't it be better to use 2 sheets laminated? That would also make the corner a little more solid since I could overlap from both directions. Thanks for the replies. Greg

[Aaron Berk]

Double up on the 3/4 mdf top. then edge band. You won't regret it, I'd even be bold enough to do a triple layer. Or maybe double 3/4 and then a replaceable layer of 1/2" mdf (edge banding would be thicker to accommodate the top)

I think you can't go wrong with a thick heavy bench/cabinet top

[Carl Babel]

I agree with Aaron: double at least (I would triple, but then, I like overkill and MDF is cheap!) and edge band.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I just added my two cent in another recent discussion on workbenches and their tops.

I like the idea of just stacking three 3/4" MDF sheets together with glue and screws. Then finish the top with replaceable 1/4" hardboard (screwed...no glue) and add a 2 1/2" high wood edgeband. Make sure there are enough intermediate stretchers to prevent sag.

It will be solid top, and be easy to mount a vise or temporarily attach jigs to it.

Jeff

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I built one from 2x8's that had been used for a set of stairs that never got built right. Took the top after glue up to a guy who had a 36" wide belt sander/planer. Totally flat and never moves. Much more durable [I don't like MDF much] and I will never have to replace it. I hate doing things twice for no reason other than wear.