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Thread: Need suggestions on how to cut recessed sliding dovetail.......??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Mount Pleasant, SC
    Posts
    39

    Need suggestions on how to cut recessed sliding dovetail.......??

    Attached is my design for a small step-stool. My wife is a little short for reaching the top kitchen cabinets & only needs about 6" of elevation to make her happy.
    As you can see from the plan, the stool will be made from three pieces of 6/4 x 11 stock. The sliding dovetail shown in the side view runs the width of the step. I've figured out how to mill the recess which is angled at 30-degrees. I would like a repeatable way of making the tail in the bottom of the step, as I'm sure my Mom will want one, too....Thanks, ButchSTEP STOOL.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aurora, Colorado (Saddle Rock)
    Posts
    514
    I like the design... but I'll say that I do not like the joinery choice for the project because all of the stress will be put on the skinny part of the tails, which is the weakest point. Strength is critical because the legs are angled.

    With that said, I think I would use a dado set and complete the DT's by hand. I just do not think you would be able to make a sled and safely extend your router bit far enough to make a good cut. Obviously, your legs could be done on the router table.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Mount Pleasant, SC
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by Philip Rodriquez View Post
    I like the design... but I'll say that I do not like the joinery choice for the project because all of the stress will be put on the skinny part of the tails, which is the weakest point. Strength is critical because the legs are angled.

    With that said, I think I would use a dado set and complete the DT's by hand. I just do not think you would be able to make a sled and safely extend your router bit far enough to make a good cut. Obviously, your legs could be done on the router table.
    Normally I would agree with your assessment of the "weak point", but in this case (the drawing is not to scale) the skinny part of the tails are almost an inch thick & the material will be either oak or maple (simply because they are the only hardwoods I have in the scrap bin). My main concern is having so much of the DT bit exposed/extended outsid the collett. I can make a jig to route the majority of the waste from the DT channel & maybe nibble away at the DT profile very slowly. Thanks for the input!......Butch

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    900
    I don't like the design because I think the joint (or any joint for that matter) will fail. Splaying the legs makes sense for stability, but you need to add aprons between the legs. The aprons are in tension when a person stands on it...ever try to stretch a board? I weigh 250# and this thing is rock solid. The top is attached to the frame with screws through cleats with elongated holes to allow movement. Think of it as a small table.

    This was one of my first woodworking projects BTW.
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