Veneering Moms hope chest

[Dick chain]

Hello everyone, I am new to the blog and am an amateur wood worker, I was referred here by "Joewoodworker"... I have my Moms hope chest (1930 vintage) which is veneered.. The chest is basically a blanket chest about 18"/18"/48".. If it was any ordinary chest it would be junk, but it has value to me.. The veneer on the main chest (ends and front) is salvageable.. I have hand sanded one end so far and finished it with semi-gloss oil base poly and it looks great. Poly is obviously not the original finish but I am looking for durability... The veneer on the cover is another story. It is a two ply walnut and is completely shot... I have never done veneer before and need you folks to get me through it..
First, I have been looking around on the net and can't seem to find two ply walnut.. Can I just make my own two ply with an underlay of inexpensive veneer??The cover is made of numerous cedar planks and I believe two ply is necessary.. Also how do I match the type and shade of walnut?? Is there a veneer company that will except a sample of the old veneer and come a little close with a match?? I'm not looking for an exact match just close..last question today, what adhesive is best, I've been reading endlessly and am confused with adhesives. Many recommend peel and stick but I have never seen anything peel and stick work will...
Thanks in advance..... Rich

[Lee Schierer]

First off, welcome to the Creek. I'm not sure who Joe Woodworker is, but we all go by real names here. Once again welcome.

Walnut will turn lighter brown as it ages with exposure to light. You're not likely to find any new lumber with the aged color. Sorry I can't help with the veneering questions. Are your sure you can't glue down the existing veneer? If you post some photos of what you are attempting it might help others offer suggestions on how to approach the problem.

[Rick Pettit]

Call this number. 336-886-4716. The company is Sauers and Company. If you live in NC you can go to their warehouse and walk through. Larry Sauers will match your existing veneer the best that he can. He has alot to choose from.

[Mike Schuch]

I just finished veneering my oak kitchen cabinets with maple veneer.

1st: you want a very flat sub strait... any imperfections will show through the veneer. Bondo worked excellent on my cabinets for filling in every little crevice.

2nd: I would highly recommended going the contact cement route. Once the two pieces touch and pressure is applied they are together!

After you have rolled out all the air and have a tight bond a little light hand sanding with 220 will work out any minor imperfections in the veneer.

The poly is kind of the final extra "glue" that really cements everything together on the veneer and adds that last little bit of strength and durability.

The veneer I used had a micro fabric on the back and I was able to bend it around 90 degree corners with no problems what so ever. I bought 2000 square feet off of Craigslist for $150 and used less than half of one of the three rolls. I wish I knew what the specs were on the veneer because it worked great!