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Thread: Remote switching for the HF 2HP DC...

  1. #16
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    Contactors have several ratings, current, voltage and horsepower.

    You cannot exceed any of them.

    Although the contactor may be rated at 20 amperes, the largest motor you can use this with is 1.5HP.

    I have a contactor sitting on my desk in front of me.

    It has the following ratings at 240 volts, single phase

    50 Amperes resitive, 5HP.

    So that's it, 5HP is the maximum for that contactor, just as 1.5HP is the maximum for the one in the remote control........Rod.
    Last edited by Rod Sheridan; 02-11-2011 at 11:57 AM.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Gager View Post
    i have my HF DC plugged into an outlet that is wired to 3 switches, 2 3-way and 1 4-way. i can turn the DC on and off by flipping any of the switches. i have them mounted in the ceiling at various locations around my shop where the tools are. i just reach up and hit the closest switch when i need the DC
    I am putting overhead switches with cords from the ceiling at each machine and drove a low voltage circuit to a relay, a similar idea but not using mains current.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Western NY
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    The X10 option

    I've had really good luck with X10 remote switching.
    I bought a transceiver
    http://cgi.ebay.com/X10-TM751-Wirele...item230e2fd9d2

    a remote
    http://cgi.ebay.com/X10-PRO-PHR04-3-...item230d252308

    and a 20A outlet for my 2HP HF DC
    http://cgi.ebay.com/XPR-W-Receptacle...item2306f8555c

    About $35 but the advantage is that you can keep expanding the system for lights, air filter, alarm system, shop heater ... etc. All you need is another $14 outlet to add something on.

    Just make sure the receiver is on the same phase as the outlet.

  4. #19
    Join Date
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    Doylestown, PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Gager View Post
    i have my HF DC plugged into an outlet that is wired to 3 switches, 2 3-way and 1 4-way. i can turn the DC on and off by flipping any of the switches. i have them mounted in the ceiling at various locations around my shop where the tools are. i just reach up and hit the closest switch when i need the DC
    Yup. And if you wanted to, you could use a relay with a 24 volt coil and use cheap, easy-to-work-with wire and a (door bell?) transformer. Put in as many start-stop stations as you want. 5 H.P. motor? No problem, just use an appropriately rated relay. You don't have to use a low voltage control but it might well be easier and cheaper.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Fredericksburg, TX
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    I had a problem with my Powermatic 3520B starting my dust collector and had to change to a magnetic contactor for my dust collector. See this post:
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...20B&highlight=

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Middle Earth MD
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    682
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Gager View Post
    i have my HF DC plugged into an outlet that is wired to 3 switches, 2 3-way and 1 4-way. i can turn the DC on and off by flipping any of the switches. i have them mounted in the ceiling at various locations around my shop where the tools are. i just reach up and hit the closest switch when i need the DC
    Good idea with multiple switches, mine is just a single switch in front of the table saw to an outlet down below where the DC resides.

    Don't need to walk too far to turn it on for the rest of the gear though

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    League City, Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Pavone View Post
    I've had really good luck with X10 remote switching.
    I bought a transceiver
    http://cgi.ebay.com/X10-TM751-Wirele...item230e2fd9d2

    a remote
    http://cgi.ebay.com/X10-PRO-PHR04-3-...item230d252308

    and a 20A outlet for my 2HP HF DC
    http://cgi.ebay.com/XPR-W-Receptacle...item2306f8555c

    About $35 but the advantage is that you can keep expanding the system for lights, air filter, alarm system, shop heater ... etc. All you need is another $14 outlet to add something on.

    Just make sure the receiver is on the same phase as the outlet.
    Isn't X10 the folks that started up the whole pop up ad thing?
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Western NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hostetler View Post
    Isn't X10 the folks that started up the whole pop up ad thing?
    Pop up ad? Not sure what that is.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    New Hampshire
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    David I was thinking of doing samething. Then thought it would probably cheaper to just add a switch to outlet that my HF dustcollector is in. Just a thought.

    good luck

  10. #25
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    Feb 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Pavone View Post
    Pop up ad? Not sure what that is.
    No problem, I kind of figured everyone that has been on the internet has run into pop up ads. Here is the wikipedia article on them... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pop-up_ad.

    They've been around almost as long as Java has... Most modern web browsers have pop up blockers now.
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    League City, Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom McCann View Post
    David I was thinking of doing samething. Then thought it would probably cheaper to just add a switch to outlet that my HF dustcollector is in. Just a thought.

    good luck
    If I had a dedicated circuit that only ever got used by the DC, then that would be a good option. I am not there yet...
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Western NY
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    15
    Oh, those internet pop-up ads. I just wasn't sure what you were referring to.
    Has anyone else used an X10 type solution for the DC?

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Ft. Wayne, IN
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hostetler View Post
    If I had a dedicated circuit that only ever got used by the DC, then that would be a good option. I am not there yet...
    I just had an electrician come over and install a couple of additional 8' double fluorescent lights in my garage plus a 30amp circuit with 2 outlets for my table saw and router table. While he was there I had him put in a dedicated 20amp circuit for the DC, that way I don't have to worry about tripping the breaker when I switch on both a tool and the DC. I also had him add a couple other outlets on an existing circuit for a ceiling mounted air cleaner and a future TV up in one corner. He came over on his day off so I didn't have to pay full rate so that was really cool.
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

  14. #29
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    Dec 2008
    Location
    santa cruz ca. transplant to ga.
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    I sure would appreciate some sort of diagram laymen like of a system like this, using bell transformer / 5hp motor.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Stew Hagerty View Post
    +1 on the Long Ranger. I know it says that it is limited to 1 1/2hp but the hp reference is irrelevant. Switches don't have a clue what hp is, they only know Volts and Amps.
    They have a clue when the contacts melt...the horsepower rating is for the maximum inrush current the switch is rated for, not the running current which is what's listed on the motor plate. If you want a lot of switches it's easier, cheaper, and safer to just use a relay with a 24V coil.

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