Sourcing a blade for frame saw -- for resawing

[Chuck Nickerson]

A regular old bit on low speed with some oil works too.

Just an FYI: cutting fluid should be used; it's much better than just oil. DAMHIKT

[Jim Paulson]

I love this conversation, but seriously with some practice you can get a couple 5/16" thick boards from ~3/4" stock. Even then you still might have a spot or two that shows some signs of being sawn, but that can be the underside of the drawer bottom. I still find it gratifying to use a homemade tool with all the physical work it includes.

As Adam points out this is easier when resawing narrower stock, say 6 inches wide or less. For me, re-sawing by hand is something a person has to want to do, otherwise the practically of using a machine wins out. Once you have a couple frame saws you find ways to use them in your shop.

Jim

[Adam Cherubini]

Hi Jim, I agree. And you are right on to point out that the thickness you get depends partially on the width of the cut. I might be able to do better than 5/16" in 4 or 6" wide material. In a 1x12 from Home Depot, 5/16" is a good well done!

Only quibble- with normal ripping or small cross cuts, 4/4 stuff, I think I can beat a machine. Some saw cuts are super efficient. Resawing isn't one.

Adam

[jamie shard]

This has been a great thread and really helped me dial in my expectations. Seems like a frame saw might help make sawing a little easier by allowing my other arm to help out... but I shouldn't expect a big performance improvement over my Grandpa's big ol rip saw!

Thanks everyone!

[john brenton]

Chuck,

Great...like I need another bottle of fluid in the garage!

Just an FYI: cutting fluid should be used; it's much better than just oil. DAMHIKT

[gary rosema]

Right now I use a 4.5TPI Carpenter's rip saw for resawing 3/4" pine boards into thin stock. It's a lot of work, but not too bad for pine... but I am doing enough of it that I would like to build a frame saw. Being able to use both arms and more body leverage would make this task much more enjoyable.

My thoughts are a long (24+" and maybe up to 36") wide (3-4") blade with about 3TPI would be ideal for fast cuts that track well. Does that make sense or any different recommendations?

Now the real question is where to get the blade? I think all I need is some decent steel with very coarse teeth. I don't think I could devote the time to filing a whole new set of teeth, but I have no problem sharpening a beat-up old blade.

I was thinking of calling Bad Axe and seeing if there was something that fit the bill. Any other folks I should consider contacting?

-jamie

a bandsaw is the way to go