What to Check for in a Used Lathe

[Chris Tsutsui]

So I found a slick deal on a barely used Oneway 2436 for $1,000.

My question before I see it is what should I look for or test out? Should I put a piece of wood in it and test it at a few speeds? Check the belt? Are there any problem areas that are difficult to fix if there's rust damage?

The owner says it's in perfect operating condition, barely used, like new, only it was stored with a tarp on top of it outside so there's surface rust on the rails.

If the rails are badly corroded should I pass on the deal or would it be worth it to have a machinist do some repairs on it, or remove the rust myself and get some help repairing damage if there's any pits, etc.

I know nothing about what's supposed to come with this, and only this picture to go by. I'm also not a wood turner, but my associate is, and he'd really like to use this if I get it and he'll teach me how to use it.


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[Steve Vaughan]

Looks like it could be a great deal. The picture doesn't show the rust well, but unless it's badly pitted, I don't think that would be much an issue. I'd be more concerned about the bearings being free, but even then, if bearing had a bit of moisture in them, it might not be that bad a deal to replace them yourself. I'd certainly check the spindle in that it runs straight and true, and slide the tailstock up to be sure it aligns perfect to the spindle end. I'd certainly turn it on and run it through as many paces as I could, maybe even take a piece or two of wood with me.

[Roger Chandler]

Unless the motor is not working and the bearings are totally shot [not likely!] I would jump on that in a hurry with both feet! Also check that the speed controller works correctly. Unless the electronics have been fried, then you have a great deal, but needs some clean up obviously, but does not look to be heavily used from the pic.

[alex carey]

Looks like a great deal. I'd bring your buddy with you to take a look.

[Chris Tsutsui]

I really do hope I get this and it's a gem because there's no way I could afford a oneway new. Moving this thing might be another issue. Should I follow the oneway website instructions on moving it by taking off the headstock, tailstock, and panel. Then removing the legs and using a refridgerator dolly on the body on some movers blankets? I will only have one helper with me and together we probably can't load 850lbs into a truck...

I do have a 1 ton HF shop crane, a winch, and 1000lb straps though I don't know if it will be more trouble or not keeping it one piece, or disassembling it.

I'll probably end up removing any extra weight from the lathe that's easy to do onsite and bring some PB blaster and breaker bar.

[Roger Chandler]

I really do hope I get this and it's a gem because there's no way I could afford a oneway new. Moving this thing might be another issue. Should I follow the oneway website instructions on moving it by taking off the headstock, tailstock, and panel. Then removing the legs and using a refridgerator dolly on the body on some movers blankets? I will only have one helper with me and together we probably can't load 850lbs into a truck...

I do have a 1 ton HF shop crane, a winch, and 1000lb straps though I don't know if it will be more trouble or not keeping it one piece, or disassembling it.

I'll probably end up removing any extra weight from the lathe that's easy to do onsite and bring some PB blaster and breaker bar.

I would take off the tailstock, headstock, and get it down to the tube frame and bed, and move them all one piece at a time. Loading and unloading will be a lot easier that way, unless you can get about 4 or 5 guys to help you at both places, then a dolly would help as well as a ramp for your truck or trailer, then it could be rolled onto the truck and off into your shop.

[Dale Miner]

Inspect for damage that might be a result of being dropped or flopped over on it's side. If no apparent damage is visible, the likelyhood of frame twist is nill. If there is no apparent frame damage, ask if it is possible to put it under power and hear it run. Running it will tell if the frequency drive and components are in working order, as well as reveal a bearing that is in the final stages of failure. Some moisture in the bearing will likely not show up until the lathe has ran for some time. Visibly inspect the ways to see how severe the rust is. Take a sharp stiff putty knife with you and scrape the rust off in a small area. This will give an idea of how rusted the ways are. Unless there is severe rust pitting, the ways should clean up with naval jelly and some sandpaper on a hardwood block. It there is deep pitting that covers essentially the entire surface of the ways, then it may be a good idea to have the top of the ways surface ground (not the sides that guide the tailstock). Removal of the headstock for surface grinding will be necessary. This might make the disassembly for moving decision easier.

If it can't be put under power, I would take a chance on it being OK.

Unless there are signs of being dropped or flopped, I don't think you can go wrong at that price. It might be a couple to five hundred to have the ways surface ground. Bearings replaced diy should not be to expensive. The electronics from Oneway might be pricey, but even at seven or eight hundred, you will still be in a Oneway 2436 for less than half price.

I would take a couple of buddies, a trailer, and funds when I went to look.

Once you have it home with all the bugs worked out, you will have a dandy lathe. At that point, you might want to consider repainting it a nice shade of mustard to cover up that unsightly white.

[Jon McElwain]

Wow. Give that guy a swift kick for treating such a fine machine so poorly. Great score, a little elbow grease and perhaps a part or two and you'll be up and running! The people at Oneway are really great to work with, I am sure they will help you with whatever you need.

As far as moving it, it is REALLY heavy. 850 pounds if I recall correctly. An average guy can probably dead lift 250-300???? Just a guess, so make sure you have the appropriate help.

I just went out and looked at mine. You'll need an 8mm allen wrench to remove 6 bolts holding the headstock to the bed, and another 10 that secure the two leg sections. I can't remember how much the tube weighs, but I have a hard time moving my extra bed way (without legs) by myself. It is manageable with a hand truck, and I suppose if I really had to, I could tip it into the back of a truck. You'll have the motor inside and the stand too which will add a few pounds. Also, the drive is mounted to the leg section with 4-8mm nut/bolts. Bring a socket or box end wrench if you plan to remove that. It does have a wiring harness running from the box to the motor inside the main tube and there are no quick disconnects. The more I talk about it, the more I think you are going to need a minimum of 2 more guys to move this thing, even with the banjo, tail stock and headstock removed.

Good luck and let us know if you go after this machine. BTW, what HP motor does it have?

[Jon McElwain]

Once you have it home with all the bugs worked out, you will have a dandy lathe. At that point, you might want to consider repainting it a nice shade of mustard to cover up that unsightly white.

Blasphemy!!

[Dale Miner]

Blasphemy!!

.......

[David Warkentin]

What would be wrong with painting it Grizzly Green?

[Chris Tsutsui]

This is just an update that I picked up the lathe finally though i paid more than $1,000 for it.

I used 3/4" kevlar rope and a 1 ton HF shop crane to load this in and out of a minivan. Kept the legs on and everything went smoothly.

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It was manufactureed Oct 2007. 2HP model. Came only with a small center, drive spur, standard 14" tool rest, manual turning handle with adapter, plus an additional stock stabilizer (had 3 orange rollerskate wheels and bearings to stabilize a long workpiece).

I know there had to be other accessories for I was given #1 oneway teeth for a chuck, but no chuck. I also didn't get a 6" faceplate, large center "cone", or knockout rod. Seller told me she would ship it to me if found, though I'm not really depending on that...

I just had to clean the rails a bit more, clean the nuts and bolts, and it runs great. Next step... make a couple candle sticks out of poplar using my beginner's 6pc sorby set. :/

I sort of want a long handle roughing gouge, and the best chuck for this lathe... Should I get the oneway chuck or the stronghold chuck? Or is there a better option out there?

It doesn't need new paint, I just color matched some gloss paint from Home Depot and will just do touch ups on a few chips here and there.

[Jeff Nicol]

Chris, So how much did you actually end up paying for it? If under $2K you got a $6000.00 lathe for a song! Things like this rarely show up and when they do it is because someone has passed away or there was a divorce involved! Good luck with your new toy and we are all a bit envious of your luck!

Jeff

[Roger Chandler]

The stronghold chuck is made by oneway..........for that size machine it would be perfect! You still got a great deal. Just call oneway and get the parts that are missing, and you are in business!

[Jon Nuckles]

Looks like a fantastic deal. Nova chucks are a little less expensive, especially when you find them on sale. I have no complaints with my supernova2. If you have the funds, though, might as well get the Oneway chucks to match the lathe.