Need 1/8 Drill bits that will stay arrow straight during drilling. Do I need Carbide?

[Nick Sorenson]

I have some operations that require the drill bit to stay dead straight. What 1/8" Drill bit material should I choose. It seems like machine tool houses have carbide drill bits but they are big $$$$.

Any other good solutions?

[John Coloccia]

I have some operations that require the drill bit to stay dead straight. What 1/8" Drill bit material should I choose. It seems like machine tool houses have carbide drill bits but they are big $$$$.

Any other good solutions?

Tele bridges?

[Peter Quinn]

What are you drilling, and how deep? At 1/8" thickness any drill bit material can wander if things don't go well. If this is metal you are drilling I find its best to start with a center drill that creates a sort of pilot to keep the regular drill bit centered on the hole. A punch can also give the bit or a center drill a locator to start the hole. That and steady gentle pressure, letting the bit do the work and clearing the chips as necessary are your best options. Carbide may stay sharp longer in very abrasive materials but I don't think it is particularly more rigid than HSS at 1/8" thickness. I figure any quality bit should drill the hole if its composition and geometry are suited to the material being drilled.

[Gary Herrmann]

If you're drilling in wood, try a high quality brad point bit like a Fuller.

I also wonder if you're using a hand held drill rather than a drill press from the way your statement is worded, but maybe I'm wrong. If you are using a hand drill, try using a square as a reference to keep the bit straight up and down. That shouldn't be a problem on a DP.

[Nick Sorenson]

It'll be in Ash and Alder for bass and guitar bridges. And I may try to use it on the CNC or using a template with drill bushings.

[glenn bradley]

I would think any quality brad point bit in a reliable drill press would meet this need. Fuller and Lee Valley "lipped" bits have both worked very well for me.

[Bruce Page]

How deep are you drilling?

[Forrest Bonner]

In metal, a good quality HHS should be used after a center drill prepares the surface for the drill bit flutes. In wood, a quality Brad point as suggested.

However, I recommend that whatever you use that you check the runout of your drill press first.

Forrest

[Tony Joyce]

And I may try to use it on the CNC.

If used on a CNC use a router bit and do peck drilling - Do not drill deeper than the length of the flutes on the bit. This is definitely the most accurate way!

[Thomas Canfield]

McMaster Carr has short length drill bits that have more rigidity. They have short flutes and limited drill depth but might work and can be checked as an example.

[Steve knight]

I found drilling through plane handles that I could use a 1/4" 6" long solid carbide endmill to do it and the hole was pretty accurate all the way through. but I did peck drilling since the flutes were only about 1" long. I did this in my mill/drill when I tried it with a 1/4" brand new bradpoint that was the same length it wandered like crazy.
I was drilling about 4.5" deep in oak.

[John Sanford]

Enlighten us kindly, what is "peck drilling", I've never heard the term before.

[Steve knight]

only drilling a little ways before retracting the bit then back in to clear the shavings.

[Tony Joyce]

Enlighten us kindly, what is "peck drilling", I've never heard the term before.

Think "woodpecker", just slower.

[Ronald Blue]

Any drill bit will flex in the 1/8" size even carbide. However if carbide it will snap and then you have junk if it flexes to far. It will be much less forgiving then hss bits.The center drill idea is probably the best bet but the brad point bit should work too. One thing to remember is you are working with wood and while its good to strive for accuracy you will always have some unavoidable variation in the end result.