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Thread: Chisel Sharpening

  1. #1

    Chisel Sharpening

    I was just watching this video of chisel sharpening.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/1161863...44970482775874

    I find this method to be super awakard..
    I made some after market tool rusts modeled at the LV rests..

    7_s.jpg and 2_small.jpg

    When I sharpen a chisel I raise the rest has high as I can on the wheel like in pic 2 so I have the most control over the tool. The wheel has many angles and find the one that makes it eaiest for you to have control over the tool..

    Even if your rest is made of wood its better than the video method IMHO
    aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource

  2. #2
    two things I noticed
    1) white wheel. OK to use, but more chance of burning
    2) no reason to raise a wire edge when grinding on a dry wheel. It's a chance to burn the edge and it's no less work on the stones than getting close to it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    5,014
    I like it with one exception. I like to be able to slide the tool across the wheel so I don't get a reverse duplicate of any inperfections in the wheel. When I used a vertical wheel I made on up with accuride slides that pivoted in and let me slide to tool across the wheel. I am using a Makita flat wheel now for rough in, so I don't need it.

    Nice fabricating!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    two things I noticed
    1) white wheel. OK to use, but more chance of burning
    2) no reason to raise a wire edge when grinding on a dry wheel. It's a chance to burn the edge and it's no less work on the stones than getting close to it.
    Dave,

    The guy who originally posted the video that Johnny linked did it while asking for help with his grinding technique. So, it wasn't presented as the right way to do anything, but rather as an illustration of what he knew wasn't quite right.

  5. #5
    All in all, it wasn't that bad. He seemed a bit tense, so it makes sense I guess if he was asking for help. He managed to get his hollow ground without burning the edge. There are people who aren't asking for help who do a lot worse.

    I don't sweat the rest too much, I would be able to use the rest as that guy was doing without much trouble. I like the stock rests on baldor grinders just fine (the two piece cast iron ones). I know several people have mentioned that stock rests are too small, but I think they are very easy to use and they're easy to keep clean. I keep one side at 25 and the other at 30 - pretty much covers everything except paring chisels.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    All in all, it wasn't that bad. He seemed a bit tense, so it makes sense I guess if he was asking for help. He managed to get his hollow ground without burning the edge. There are people who aren't asking for help who do a lot worse.

    I don't sweat the rest too much, I would be able to use the rest as that guy was doing without much trouble. I like the stock rests on baldor grinders just fine (the two piece cast iron ones). I know several people have mentioned that stock rests are too small, but I think they are very easy to use and they're easy to keep clean. I keep one side at 25 and the other at 30 - pretty much covers everything except paring chisels.
    I have that same grinder in my garage, and believe me, no one is mistaking it or its rests for something from Baldor. I set mine up with a Lee Valley rest, though a lot of folks have heart-burn with the fact that its aluminum. I haven't used it enough to really know whether I like it or not, but it's definitely better than the stock ones (mine were bent). Grinding is just another skill that I need to hone but don't have time to get to right now.

  7. #7
    Actually, what I was getting at is that with some touch, i think anyone can get by just fine with the stock two-piece cast rests.

    Before I had a baldor grinder, I had a ryobi that had two piece aluminum rests. Other than the fact that they had detents on them (making them hard to set between the detents), I got along fine with them.

    Coarse dressed wheel and the rest set right and you'll have no issues at all with grinding, trust me. I did it for several years with a 100 grit white wheel, just had to be a little more patient than with the coarse wheel. I'm sure it won't be the last thing I overspent on.

    I wanted to get the grinder you have, but somehow that turned into getting a baldor 6" grinder and then still getting wheel balancers, which leads me to believe the problem with most grinders (if the bearings are OK) is the wheels and not the grinder.

  8. #8

    Check out worksharp

    Johnny,
    This is a bit of a detour on your thread, but the worksharp excels at sharpening chisels. I just used mine last night to sharpen an A2 plane blade and it worked beautifully. I've done a fair amount of sharpening on a similar grinder setup.
    Food for thought.

    Jim

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