Behlens rock hard table top

[Rob Lindquist]

I built a kitchen table this weekend out of pine. Not the best choice I know, but it is for a cabin with two nights a week use at best, and it fits the decor. (And that's what I was told to use, if you know what I mean)

Anyway I want a hard finish and plan on using the above mentioned product. Do I have to use that on the whole table or just the top, can the legs be somthing different or will there be a risk of different color changes int he future?

There will be no stain, just natural pine. The rest of the cabin has pine ceilings done with Sherwin Williams non yellowing (Sherwood?) All the trim and doors are done with Minwax Polycrylic sprayed on, along with the log siding, all which turned out very nice. Does anyone have another suggestion for a alternate project? Would the polycrylic hold up, it seems to everywhere else.

[Neal Clayton]

yellow pines specifically will age to a darker color, but if the whole table is made out of similar boards they will age similarly.

you can put it on the whole table, sure. since pine is a bit thirsty i would probably put a couple of coats of clear shellac first as a sealer. that'll save you some money and make your behlen's go a bit further.

[Rob Lindquist]

Cost aside, would it be better to use just the behlens, so it soaks in and make the surface harder than just the behlens over the shellac?

It is eastern white pine, (I think). I was thinking if I use behlens on the top and something less expensive elsewhere there might be a difference in how it yellows. The white pine also darkens quite a bit.

[Steve Schoene]

Behlen's goes over shellac quite well, and as the shellac is harder than the varnish you won't be making the film softer. You will make it more resistant to wood movement from changes in moisture in the air. Shellac is considerably more color stable than any oil based varnish. I wouldn't want to change finishes for tops versus legs. You save very little but get finishes that look different.

[Howard Acheson]

I would use the Behlens on the whole table. It is a tougher finish than a poly varnish and the table will look more uniform. There is no up-side to using a different finish.

Behlen's is a phenolic resin varnish so it is quite yellow or amber. If will be obvious if you switch varnishes mid-stream.

Keep one thing in mind though. Even thought Behlen's is a hard finish, no finish is harder than the hardness of the substrate it is applied to. In other words, pine is easily dinged and the finish will not do anything to stop that. A hard finish may actually be detrimental in that it will crack and craze when dented where a softer, more flexible finish will just "give" and still maintain its integrity. For soft woods like pine a soft and flexible exterior spar varnish would be more durable and protective.

[Rob Lindquist]

Howard, I think I'm with you on using a softer finish, a buddy who has finished wood all his life said the same thing and it really makes sense.

So what to use? I have been to nearly every website reagrding this, seen you name on almost all of them too!

I want to protect it from the typical water marks and use a table would get. I was thinking of maybe WaterLox, I've used a lot of the Polycrylic Miniwax waterbase and would use that but I don't care for the thick plastic look, and it doesn't bring out the woods beauty much. Anyone use the Oil Modified water based Minwax.

Or lastly, could I use one coat of BLO/Danish oil and then the Polycrylic to enhance the wood first?

Normally I spray vinyl sealer then laquer, but I don't know how durable that really is. I've only used it less used furniture.

[Jeff Hamilton Jr.]

... a buddy who has finished wood all his life said the same thing and it really makes sense.

Sorry Rob. Can't help it. Didn't he also give you the name of the "best" finish you seek?

[Rob Lindquist]

He did suggest a spar, as did Howard, I think, it was over a few cocktails.

He also mentioned the enviro-seal, he offered me a gallon he has, that might be fine for a bar top, but not this project. He finishes trim packages for houses and profit sends him to laquer for the quick drying times. Seems everything gets laquer in his shop.

I've decided I do not want a thick looking finish, so I'm leaning towards a product I can hand rub or wipe on many thin coats. I do not have a timeline for it, the table is done and sitting there. I will be trying a few different finishes on sample boards I sanded the same as the table. Of course I can't test their durability over time so any other suggestions are appreciated.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> So what to use?

As I suggested above, I would use an exterior rated oil based varnish or poly varnish. "Spar" varnish fits the bill. It is formulated to be soft and flexible. It will do a good job or a table in a cabin. I don't think you are talking high furniture grade here.

[Rob Lindquist]

No its not fine quality furniture, sort of a rustic cottagy picnic thing, but I do want the work I put into it to turn out nice and last a while. I will look for some spar.
Here is a quick photo from my phone, the top is not fastened or even in place BTW.

I will be making benches for it also. 8/8 pine is not cheap these days either, over $100 for some of the boards used! (12' X 13-14")

IMAG0127.jpg

[Andrew Nichols]

Quick question related to preserving my quart of Behlens Rock Hard as long as possible:
I am getting ready to do several cane handles (small projects) over the next few months. I did a search on Behlens, and from what I read, it reacts to the oxygen introduced when you open, and lower the fluid level in the can, causing it to gel up. Someone suggested using argon sprayed into the can just before closing. Since I'm to stingy to buy a can of argon, and I need to start on one tomorrow, how does this idea sound -

As I pour out the finish (fluid) in small amounts, I replace it in the can with some of my son's monstrous marble collection, bringing the level up to the lid again? the marbles will be clean, and should be non-reactive.

Thoughts? Thanks!

Andrew

[Steve Schoene]

Yes, the marble trick will work. It has been recommended over the years to solve just this problem.

[Andrew Nichols]

Thanks Steve, turns out I am Stingy AND Crafty!

Andrew