rasps

[john davey]

I have two rasps that I m trying to figure out what use they could have. From what I have read woodworkers want a rasp to have a grain of 9-15. The two I have seem to be about 3 or 4. They are big. One is flat and one is half round on one side. The flat one has even rows of teeth and the half round has the teeth scattered. thee are only 6 or 7 teeth to a row. So what would someone do with these. They seem to just rip wood to shreds as they are too course. The flat one seems to say Hayes on it but it is hard to read. The half round says Nicholson USA on it. They both seem old. Here are some pics... Thanks, John...

rasp-2.jpgrasp-1.jpg

[Ed Looney]

John
I can't be sure but they look similar to some I have seen farriers use to shape the hooves. You can look at the pictures on the link below to see it they match your rasps.

http://www.farrierproducts.com/bellota.html

Ed

[Harlan Barnhart]

Lucky you. Those look like great rasps. I use them for creating curves. In some cases it is faster and more accurate to rasp wood away than saw it with a coping saw. Typically I follow a rasp with a file to create a smooth surface. Practice a little. You might surprise yourself.

[Jim Koepke]

I was thinking along the same line as Ed, used for shoeing horses.

Those can be used for rapid removal of wood, but will not produce a show surface.

jtk

[Paul Incognito]

I have a bunch of rasps like that. I find them at flea markets all the time for a dollar or two.
As Harlan and Jim said, they work great for rough shaping, just follow up with a finer file and you're good to go.
I never considered that they might actually be farrier's rasps.
Paul

[Mike Givney]

Not farrier rasps, at least not modern. Modern hoof rasps dont taper and have a coarse side (triangular teeth) and a fine side like a mill file. Note, though, i use a hoof rasp on wood quite a bit for shaping.
Mike
Otter Creek Farrier Service

[Robert Brandt2]

" even rows of teeth and the half round has the teeth scattered" Even rows of teeth are machine cut. Scattered teeth are usually hand cut and considered better because they won't leave a gouge line in the work as straight line/machine cut teeth can.

[john brenton]

These can be handy if you have a smoother file to follow it up with. You can think about it as these files being the toothing plane, and a finer rasp or cabinet file being the smoother.

[Peter Evans]

The flat rasp is a Wood Rasp, these came as Bastard and Smooth, this one probably bastard, and the coarsest rasp cut.

The half round is a Nicholson Patternmakers rasp; as it looks somewhat coarse, probably a bastard cut. This looks like a wide point, if 12" long then a No. 51, if 10" long, then a No 42. Hard to find today.

Nicholson still make the Narrow Point 10" Nos 49 (2nd cut) and 50 (Smooth cut), but in Mexico. These are machine cut, but with a special machine to achieve an "uneven" teeth pattern. Nicholson never made hand cut files/rasps.

If you soak both rasps in citric acid (they look like the teeth are still big enough to become sharp) you will notice a much smoother cut, as well as quicker result. My observation is that old worn down rasps cut much smoother than when new, because the teeth stick up a lot less and have a lower curved profile, and after the citric, are sharp. Naturally they stay sharp less time than new, but stick 'em back in the citric. Leave 'em in the solution (concentration not critical) until they are sharp - just test from time to time. Remember to wash in clean water and dry immediately with a hair dryer.

[george wilson]

Hoof rasps are about 2" wide,and have VERY coarse teeth on one side,and coarse file type teeth on the other. I found a broken one,and ground it to only 4" long,with no tang,jut a rectangular block of file. I use the coarse file side to slide up and down guitar necks I am contouring,to take off any lumps in their surfaces. Works great.

[john davey]

Thanks Peter. So I have a 51 I guess as it is 12" long. I will try to find some citric acid and give them a bath.