Unplugged Table-Saw - one year later

[Mike Allen1010]

A year ago I went to using only hand tools, thanks largely to the inspiration from the talented and knowledgeable contributors here at SMC.


I want to share my experience for the benefit of others who might be considering a similar path.


I had used hand saws and planes for joinery and final surfacing but always assumed I would need the precision of a table saw for accurately dimensioning stock and creating straight, square surfaces for joinery, gluing-up panels etc. I also assumed that that only those with a lifetime of experience and carefully honed skills were capable of producing good results using only hand tools.


The pictures below are what I now use as a “Table-Saw”:


As many of you I'm sure will appreciate, my saw till currently has more than double the number of saws I designed it for. As my saw sharpening and refurbishing skills have improved, the number of saws in my shop seems to have somehow magically multiplied! From my experience, what others have said here about the satisfaction that comes from acquiring and using hand tools being a slippery slope couldn't be more true!


Below are some pictures of the first project I've built using only hand tools -- a mahogany/walnut slant top desk.


In summary, I enjoy the process of woodworking now using only hand tools more than I ever did before when I was noisily fearing losing a finger to my tablesaw. In addition, I've been surprisingly pleased with the results and I'm certainly not especially talented or capable, just a weekend woodworker.


For me the hand tool path has been easier and more satisfying than I ever anticipated! To those who might be considering a similar path, I would encourage you to give it a shot -- I've been surprised by how quickly and accurately hands and eyes are able to create and recognize straight, square surfaces.


I want to thank everyone at SMC for inspiring me to pursue the hand tool path as I never would've considered it I hadn't benefited from what others have shared here. A special thanks to Daryl Weir who provided me with a Disston No. 12, 28” rip saw that showed me for the first time what a well-tuned handsaw actually felt like and that ripping long, square, straight edges was not only possible but enjoyable!


Mike Allen

[Mark Baldwin III]

Wow! Love the progression on the dovetails, it's a nice touch.

[Marco Cecala]

Great news. I always wondered what it would be like. Anybody wanna buy any Forrest blades??

[gary Zimmel]

Holy crow you did leave those saws alone to long. They have multiplied into a colony....
Beautiful job on the dovetails as the rest of the project Mike.

[Andrew Nielsen]

Great to hear it's worked out for you and I really like your saw bench !

Do you ever work with manmade materials ? MDF or Ply ? If so do you have dedicated handsaws (and planes), because I've heard that the glues can blunt blades very quickly. I've always wondered what Neander's do.......

[Rick Erickson]

Thanks for the encouraging post Mike. I'm getting there (didn't go cold turkey like you) but I'm getting closer. I love your new "tablesaw". I thought I had a saw problem - sheesh! Anyone in the market for a Powermatic PM2000?

[bob blakeborough]

Very inspiring!

[Mike Allen1010]

Great to hear it's worked out for you and I really like your saw bench !

Do you ever work with manmade materials ? MDF or Ply ? If so do you have dedicated handsaws (and planes), because I've heard that the glues can blunt blades very quickly. I've always wondered what Neander's do.......

I do work with plywood and I have a dedicated handsaw for that because I think it is true that the abrasives in plywood can dull a handsaw rather quickly. I don't have dedicated planes for plywood as I'm only truing up edges and given that the steel in plane blades is harder than hand saws, they hold up quite well.

Thanks for the comments, Mike

[ray hampton]

you saw plywood with a handsaw ? must be a combination
rip/cross cut saw

[Mike Allen1010]

For plywood thicker than 1/4", I use an 8 PPI, 26" Cross cut saw with 15° rake and 20° fleam angles. I do make a point to keep the "show" side up as I do get some tearout on the back side. I find keeping the teeth sharp and keeping the saw at a low angle to the plywood gives me the best results.

For plywood 1/4" and thinner, I use a 14 PPI, inexpensive Japanese-style pull saw with replaceable blades and generally get pretty quick, clean results that clean up with a few passes from a hand plane and maybe a little sandpaper with the grain to round over the sharp edges.

[Kevin Foley]

Mike,

If I ever make a desk like that I can die happy.

Kevin