Band saw power question

[Cliff McNeill]

I have a question about providing power to my 220/20A band saw. Can I change the plug to plug into a 220/30A electric clothes dryer outlet? Any issues? I recently moved and have had to set up in the basement of property that we are renting. Where I dont know how long we will be here (6 months or 6 years) yet, I was thinking this might be a good temporary solution. Any thoughts or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[Jon McElwain]

No problem doing that. Before my shop was wired, I used the clothes dryer outlet for 220 power. You might consider swapping the 30a breaker for a 20a breaker - just be sure to put it back when you move again so the next guy has enough amps to run a dryer. Never exceed the breaking amperage for a given wire gauge - you can go down but not up.

[Cliff McNeill]

Super! Sounds like a plan! Thanks

[Alan Schaffter]

No problem doing that. Before my shop was wired, I used the clothes dryer outlet for 220 power. You might consider swapping the 30a breaker for a 20a breaker - just be sure to put it back when you move again so the next guy has enough amps to run a dryer. Never exceed the breaking amperage for a given wire gauge - you can go down but not up.

Why should he consider changing the breaker? That is totally unneccessary.

To avoid changing the plug on the bandsaw, make a adapter- a box with a 220V receptacle that matches the bandsaw plug and a dryer plug pigtail.

[Chip Lindley]

What Alan said! Leave the breaker as-is! The 20A (5 hp) load calls for a 30A circuit. Starting a motor cause an inrush surge that must be compensated for. A 20A breaker would no doubt constantly be tripping on the bandsaw's startup, or under heavy usage conditions.

As to mating plugs, if the saw is close to the dryer receptacle, save time and money with a dryer pigtail to match. (for now)

[Mike Desch]

Howdy:

One word of caution. Most dryers are 220V, yes, but they also have 120V control circuits and the motor.
The dryer has connections for both 220V and 110V. If your saw is 220V only, you won't need the neutral wire, just the two line hots.
Just be aware when you wire up the pigtail or temporary box.