Stole One of Derek's Shooting boards

[Andrew Gibson]

OOh, maybe I just made my own. Thanks Derek for posting yours, I copied it and made one for myself to go along with my new LV BUJ.

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[Dwain Lambrigger]

OOh, maybe I just made my own. Thanks Derek for posting yours, I copied it and made one for myself to go along with my new LV BUJ.

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Are you stealth gloating with that LV BUH and saw on the side there?

Seriously, is that mdf for the body? What are the trim pieces?

[Derek Cohen]

OOh, maybe I just made my own. Thanks Derek for posting yours, I copied it and made one for myself to go along with my new LV BUJ...

Hi Andrew

That looks great! Only it is not my design. It is LN's - I just added the hardwood bits to make it more durable, less destructive of the plane, and easier to set up.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Gibson]

Are you stealth gloating with that LV BUH and saw on the side there?

Seriously, is that mdf for the body? What are the trim pieces?

Dwain It is MDF made form a quarter sheet of half inch. the trim pieces are Cherry that I had laying around.

I guess it could be a stelth gloat for the Plane. I didn't even think about the saw. I have posted it here a few times, along with its matching friends. It's a Wenzloff plate with a handle of my own making.

[Don Dorn]

I saw the original thread by Derek and it made me want to go out and make a new one. I am struggling with one question though. I notice that a couple of his options are inclined so as to create a skew cut with a straight blade. How critical is this? The reason I ask is that my current one which combines 90 & 45 works very well, but is not inclined. I know that only one part of the blade contantly is used on such a board, but how much of a downfall is this? I'm willing to make another if necessary, but am curious as to what schools of thought you folks have.

[Chris Jackson]

Andrew...where did you get the threaded insert hardware that you used for the miter attachment?

[Adam Cormier]

Nice job! I like the trim.

[Andrew Gibson]

Andrew...where did you get the threaded insert hardware that you used for the miter attachment?

I got it at the BORG. The one I got is a press in insert. I am concerned it will pull out over time. If it does I will drill though the board and get a T nut that mounts from the other side.

If I were to do it again I would go that route, but I didn't think of it at the time.

[Erik France]

Andrew...where did you get the threaded insert hardware that you used for the miter attachment?

Harbor Freight has a 36piece brass assortment for $9-$12 It is nice to have on hand for jig building.

From the HF website:
Description of Storehouse 67553

The perfect way to put threads into wood.

• Insert threads into wood fixtures for easy assembly of furniture, cabinets, and other wood assemblies
• Strong, wide external thread spacing resists pulling out and offers maximum strength, reduced splitting

Includes 10 pieces #8-32, 10 pieces 1/4"-20, 8 pieces 5/16"-18, 8 pieces 3/8"-16 and carrying case. Case dimensions: 5-3/8" L x 3-1/2" W x 1-1/8" thick

[Derek Cohen]

I saw the original thread by Derek and it made me want to go out and make a new one. I am struggling with one question though. I notice that a couple of his options are inclined so as to create a skew cut with a straight blade. How critical is this? The reason I ask is that my current one which combines 90 & 45 works very well, but is not inclined. I know that only one part of the blade contantly is used on such a board, but how much of a downfall is this? I'm willing to make another if necessary, but am curious as to what schools of thought you folks have.

Hi Don

The ramped shooting boards have a 5 degree incline. This is not much when compared with the 20 degree skew of the blade in the #51 plane (I am not sure one could even say that it is a true skew cut). Nevertheless it does have a noticeable effect in practice. It is just enough to cause the blade to enter the wood at a slight angle. This reduces the impact "shock", and there is less jarring. Once you have used a ramped board you will understand why it is preferred to a flat board. There may be a slight spreading of wear over the blade, but this is not a biggie.

A ramped board with a straight-bladed plane is better than the latter on a flat board.

A skew-bladed plane on a flat board probably trumps that.

A skew-bladed plane on a ramped board is even better (probably just because this is has greater skew).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Adam Cormier]

I just finished my version of it. I used Jatoba for my stops and a screw-in style thread insert for the miter attachment which I got at HD. I decided against putting some more Jatoba on the rails of the shooting board after doing some research.

Here are some pics.

[Jim Paulson]

Beautiful shooting boards Adam.

I applied cherry edging to my 4 foot long shooting board. I like the way it looks against the birch plywood.
I am torn between using my reconditioned Bedrock 605 and the LV LAJ for shooting edges now. Actually, I am favoring the LAJ.

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[John Sanford]

I just finished my version of it. I used Jatoba for my stops and a screw-in style thread insert for the miter attachment which I got at HD. I decided against putting some more Jatoba on the rails of the shooting board after doing some research.

Here are some pics.

Adam, could you elaborate on why you didn't use Jatoba on the rails?