BS cutting issues

[Bill Sanson]

Hey all,

Well i have had my Grizzly X2 for a while now and it seems the honeymoon is over. Not the machines fault but i am having issues when cutting. I have Timberwolf blades, (3/8 and 1") and the 3/8 seems to twist when cutting and wander. Not sure why this happens, i was cutting 8/4 stock last night and the blade was somewhat unpredictable. I know they are not supposed to be tensioned like other blades but i think i followed the instructions correctly?? also the rip blade seemed to not track straight as well so i am obviously missing something. does anyone have any ideas for my sore sore head?

Bill in Nova Scotia

[Dave MacArthur]

Blade is dull, 95%. If it worked before, and it's tracking smoothly, you probably dulled it somehow. That blade dulls quickly I believe. I was thinking the same thing with one of those a few weeks ago, thought my saw must be messed up... replaced the blade with a 3/8" brand new one, sliced off a 1/16" veneer like butter.

Reading this thread may help you, it's the "go to" thread on band saw blades, by Van Huskey:

Lets talk bandsaw blades!

[John Lanciani]

Timberwolf blades = sizzle.
Lenox Diemaster bimetal blades = steak!!

Until you get some decent blades crank the tension up a bunch and use up the timberwolves and be done with them.

[glenn bradley]

Steel blades are disposables like sandpaper. I change my Timberwolf's when they start to cut poorly. You don't state how many lineal feet (or of what material) you have run through but, I get many months of service out of a blade. If it was tracking well before and has started to wane, that sounds like blade wear.

I always have a couple spares in the wings so if that day comes while I am in the middle of a project, I am not stopped. I do use the flutter method as described for setting tension; no wandering. There was a buy 2 get 1 free deal I recently took advantage of, may still be there.

I am going to try one of the bi-metal or other "better" blade materials somewhere down the road. I have some years of experience with the Suffolk blades so I will be able to get a good read on the cost benefit after running a different blade material to end-of-life. I was going to buy a Diemaster this time round but, the sale lured me away. I do want to compare so, . . . next time.

[Bill Sanson]

thanks for the replies folks. I did not put through a ton of wood through the BS. maybe at most 150 bf. This is my first real BS so I am wondering if i am missing something in the setup?

[Howard Acheson]

What is the model number of your band saw?

[Richard Coers]

How tight are the blade guides on the sides of the blade? You might snug them up a little, but check the weld area before turning on the machine. If they are getting a little dull, slow up the feed rate and see if they might limp along a little longer. I buy my blade stock by the roll and make up my own with silver solder. Works great, you just need to get over the sticker shock of buying the roll. The last couple rolls I bought on ebay.

[Prashun Patel]

Are your guides set properly? I'm not sure how they are on the X2, but I know the thumb screw that adjusts the lateral bearing front-to-back position tends to loosen with use. This has caused my guides to ride forward. If the teeth have any set, the guides can then contact the blade and dull it prematurely. The telltale is squealy cuts. The saw should be quiet when spinning without load.

Does that saw even have roller guides or blocks?

[Rick Cabot]

Hi Bill
I would check out the following four areas:
1. Is the blade tensioned properly?
2. Are the upper and lower wheels co-planer?
3. Are you pushing too hard on the blade when you are feeding stock?
4. Check the position of your guides and thrush bearings.
Hope this helps.
Rick

[Phil Thien]

I know you said you've only cut 150-BF, but I think your blade could still be dull.

[lowell holmes]

I've had issues with the T-wolf blades. The welds allow the blades to drift fore and aft as the saw is running, causing the vibrations while cutting the wood. The blades slam against the thrust bearings.


I'm ready to order new blades from BC Saw. Their welds are good and the blades run true. They are a high tension blade. I think they use Starret blades.


http://www.bcsaw.com/

[Bill Sanson]

thanks for all the help guys, here is the link for the X2 http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-B...unnion/G0513X2
it does have roller guides and i felt that everything was set up correctly, as i said it was my first saw so i was pretty particular about it, but some of what you are telling me about the blade sounds about right. Although it is not squeeling it does slam a bit and i have tried to control my feed rate.

So if i need a new blade is Lennox the best and if so where is the best supplier on either side of the border?

thanks again fellas,
Bill

[Eddie Darby]

I've had some blades last a long time, and others very very short time, and both from the same maker.
My guess is that the wood being cut may have been more abrasive, and so dulled the blade fast.

Try another new blade, and see if the wandering twist disappears.

You might want to check out these blades while you are at it:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...s705to137.aspx

http://www.tufftooth.com/

[Bill Sanson]

Lowell,

I was wondering how your blade turned out from BC saw? I think i am going to place an order soon so I thought i would check in to see how they were??

[Ted Wong]

Timberwolf blades = sizzle.
Lenox Diemaster bimetal blades = steak!!

Until you get some decent blades crank the tension up a bunch and use up the timberwolves and be done with them.

I've never understood the hype over Timberwolf blades. I tried one once and wasn't impressed in the least and went right back to trusty Lenox high carbon.