Will rubbing out with rottenstone give a GLOSS finish?

[Dan Friedrichs]

I'm trying to give up my addiction to polyurethane and thus recently built some small tables that I finished with Waterlox Original S/F. I've built up several coats on the top, and I'm mostly satisfied with the finish, except for some quite minor dust nibs and wiping marks. I'd like to "rub these out", but this is the first time I've tried rubbing out a finish.

I acquired some 2F pumice stone, 4F pumice stone, rottenstone, parafin oil, and 3 felt blocks.

I took one small table top (about 12" x 12"), made a paste of parafin oil and 2F pumice, and rubbed it vigorously for about a minute. I then thoroughly cleaned the table top with clean rags and mineral spirits, and repeated the process with the 4F pumice and the rottenstone (using a new felt block each time).

The top is now smooth, but definitely has a satin finish. Does rubbing with rottenstone achieve the same high-gloss finish that comes with just straight Waterlox Original? Am I doing something wrong?

[Steve Schoene]

Yes, rottenstone will achieve at least as high a gloss as Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. But, rottenstone is quite a fine abrasive compared to pumice, and will take quite a bit longer to achieve it's full gloss potential.

Frankly, if you are going for a gloss finish, you need not use pumice, and certainly not both grades of pumice. (I don't even own the 2F) Use pumice when you are planning to stop at a satin finish.

You will be much better off doing the initial smoothing of nibs and defects with sandpaper on a sanding block--it will level better than pumice on felt. I start with 600 grit (CAMI) unless there is a real mess to deal with. After the basic smoothing I shift to 1200 grit (CAMI) to remove the scratches from the 600 grit. After that is accomplished you can go directly to the rottenstone to bring up the sheen.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Thanks, Steve. I will try that.

I had to look up what "CAMI" meant, and wow - what an education I got! I had no idea there were different ways to specify paper grit.

[Scott Holmes]

Dan,

If you would like to get the same gloss finish without the mess of rottenstone... pick up the MicroMesh sanding sheets and use mineral oil as the lube. 1500 grit through 12000 grit then auto wax or haze remover. No black rottenstone mess to clean and it's faster.

[Steve Schoene]

I'm not a fan of auto wax. Most brands contain silicone, and may not even mention it on the label. It won't hurt the finish, only create problems is refinishing is needed down the road.

Micro Mesh will certainly do the job nicely. It is rather more expensive--a basic kit of one 3" x 4" sheet of each of 9 grits is around $$20 and may have to incure shipping costs. Rottenstone should be found in about any respectable hardware store, and the 1 lb. box won't be more than $5 or $7.

[Scott Holmes]

Steve you are correct about the silicone... I should have mentioned it.

I typically use Menzerna polishing compound, 3M Finesse-It II or an automotive "haze remover".

I agree Micromesh is pricey but used with mineral oil or mineral spirits as a lube it lasts a long time.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Steve and Scott,

I REALLY appreciate your help! Having limited time to play, I think I will try the micromesh sheets. I see that they make them for 5" ROS, and recommend using them dry. Do you have any thoughts about that?

[Scott Holmes]

If I were counting on continued sales for my livelyhood, I too would recommend using them dry; they will cake up and will need to be replaced MUCH SOONER when used dry.

Mineral spirits or mineral oil to wet sand... MO is better than MS when using an electric RO sander. I use air powered whenever possible.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Gotcha. Thanks so much, Scott - I've ordered some of the micromesh ROS disks, and will give them a try with mineral oil.

[Brian Kent]

I followed the same advice with the micromesh, using a ROS and mineral spirits on Waterlox. Wonderful stuff. I had an added problem that the surface could not me completely flat due to earlier mistakes. The give in the ROS made it possible to get a completely smooth surface even though it was not flat. I could also stop when it was as glossy as I needed it to be with just enough satin that it did not make the waviness obvious. I could have gotten to glossy if I wanted to keep going.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Cool. Very timely thread - thanks guys. I'm heading into some stuff where this is the ticket.

Source[s] for 5" micromesh ROS disks? I know they ain't cheap.

Kent

[Brian Kent]

Kent,

Rockler has a set of 9 for $20.99. Very reasonable for what they do. They are also cleanable and way outlast ROS sandpaper. Free shipping for a couple of days at Rockler (ends March 23) with the code: V1952
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...lter=micromesh

Mr. Kent

[Kent A Bathurst]

Mr Kent:

Thanks

Kent

EDIT: Question - for frame of reference, one of the [many] things I will be doing is a DR table. Top dim ~ 42" x 86". Longevity of the disks? Wiil one disk do this surface? Will it last long enough to do 2? 3? Best guess, as if you were going to place an order.....

thnx x 2

[Brian Kent]

I would start by buying just one pack. After going through the grits on a coffee table with waterlox I see no apparent wear, so I don't know the limits.

[Scott Holmes]

Try Rockler or Woodcraft. Google would be the next option.