Is Padauk an exotic hardwood like Sam Maloof warned about?

[Brian Kent]

I am using the Maloof Poly Oil finish and the Maloof Oil and Wax finish on a Padauk Maloof-style rocking chair.

I noticed a warning (after being 2 coats into the process) that says, “Do not use this oil on exotic hardwoods like Zircote, Ebony, or Rosewood.”

Question #1. Does anyone know why?

Question #2. Is Padauk an exotic hardwood “like Zircote, Ebony, or Rosewood”?

I am already into the process. I just wondered if I was headed for trouble.

Ingredients of Maloof Poly / Oil finish:
35% Boiled Lindseed Oil
32.995% Raw Tung Oil
16.9% Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
<14.3% Oil Modified Polyurethane
<14.3% Alkyd Resin
<14.3% Amorphous Precipitated Silica
.8% Organophilic clay
.05% Methyl ethyl ketoxime

Ingredients of Maloof Poly / Wax finish:
50% Boiled Linseed Oil
48.5% Raw Tung Oil
.75% Carnuba Wax
.75% Bees Wax

Just a note. There is some variation between this and the so-called Maloof home mix of 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Tung Oil, and 1/3 Poly. Also, the carnuba wax is usually not mentioned in the home-made finishes that are “just like Sam uses”.

Also, I know that Sam did actually use this finish and not just put his name on it. In the “Day in Sam Maloof’s Shop” course, his co-worker showed us the cases of the stuff with slightly dented cans. He had a contract to buy back the mix for his own use, at a great discount when the cans are dented. I assume "The Boys" in the shop have the same contract now that Sam is gone.

Thanks.

Brian Kent

[Steve Schoene]

Some of the exotic hardwoods, also called oily hardwoods don't let oil based finishes cure properly. If the finish you have applied so far has been drying satisfactorily then you shouldn't have a problem.

Within a percentage point or two I don't see any variation between the stuff in the can and the formula mixture. It's 2 points heavy on BLO, likely the least expensive part, and it's just a bit shy on the varnish. Note that "poly" as we usually see it is a combination of mineral spirits ("aliphatic hydrocarbon" and a resin that is an alkyd resin modified with oil and polyurethane to create the varnish. They appear to use a satin varnish due to the silica and clay. And, to be picky those percentages are percent by weight, where the formula mix used percentage by volumn. They don't give precise percentages on the alkyd and poly resins either because they buy varnish depending on what is cheapest at the moment, or they have some marketing reason to give it mystery by not disclosing the percentages exactly.

[Brian Kent]

That makes sense. The part I was mainly thinking about alkyd instead of poly varnish, but each one is a less than 14% but not a guarantee of any percentage.

And yes, it is drying just fine.

[Casey Gooding]

In my experience, oil based finishes make padauk look muddy. I much prefer a clear topcoat like shellac or lacquer.

[Chris Fournier]

Padauk presents no finishing issues - unless you're trying to fill those huge pores! I have used quite a bit of it in my furniture work and as Casey points out I have found that lacquer seems to compliment it more than oil finishes. Regardless, the stuff is going to a rich ruddy brown over time.

[Brian Kent]

I won't be filling the pores. They are a beautiful part of the character of the wood. Sanding to 400 then 3 stages of buffing with 3M pads mean I am starting with a polished surface. It is starting out lighter than a Padauk tool did when I sanded to 180.

[Mike Null]

Years ago I made a music box from Padauk and finished it with tung oil. It is now a very dark and somewhat muddy color. Not something I would use again.

[Larry Edgerton]

A few years ago I did an exterior door with a carving that was partially made from Padauk. It was in an extreme enviroment an so was using automotive finishes but doing my base coats with less expensive water based finish. The one I was using was a Sherwin Williams acid catalized WB.

The acid in the catalizer turned the Padauk an awesome purple, and I do mean purple. It actually enhanced the carving so I left it and carried on with the finish. I don't use that finish any more, but I do keep some of the catalizer around for special effects on certian woods. If you have a piece of scrap check it out, it is a beautiful color, and it does not fade.

Would love to see pics of the chair.

[Brian Kent]

Here is a picture of the finish so far. This is after 3 coats. I will buff with the fine 3M pad or cotton or 0000 steel wool before the last base coat. Then the oil / wax mixture comes next (3 coats).

[Steve Schoene]

Looks pretty shiny for an oil/varnish mix finish, and quite a bit shinier that the Maloof pieces I've seen, though that may be a factor of it being padauk than walnut. Have you been vigorous in wiping off the oil/varnish after it has had a chance to penetrate for a bit?

[Brian Kent]

Yes, I had wiped the whole thing down quickly, then after these photos I finished wiping with a fresh t-shirt. It was wet when I took the photos.

[Brian Kent]

I am bringing this back to the original build thread. The new photos are on this page:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...97#post1662697