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Thread: Removing "stuck" router bit

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Fournier View Post
    Easy and this question has been answered here in the last six weeks! Cut a thin piece of hardwood in the shape of a "U" with the space between the arms of the U being slightly over the width of the cutter shank diameter and the thickness being just enough to slip in between the collet face and the router bit. Now put this U between the collet and the bit and loosen the collet and pop goes the stickey bit. Never fails!
    You can also use a 1/4" open end wrench in the same manner if the shank is 1/4", or 1/2" open end wrench with a 1/2" shank.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Portland View Post
    The O-ring does NOT go on the bit, it sits at the bottom of the collet (exactly how you described the grommet). If anyone is using a technique where the o-ring is between the collet and bit then they should stop immediately.
    I give up.

    I've been thinking about this, and then ... looking into it on various websites, and ... still cannot come up with a single reason NOT to stick the o-rings on the shank of the bit, as is my practice.

    Why do you think it's a bad idea ?

    It's advocated in several places, including ....

    http://www.routertips.com/index.htm


  3. #18

    That would work too

    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Sack View Post
    You can also use a 1/4" open end wrench in the same manner if the shank is 1/4", or 1/2" open end wrench with a 1/2" shank.
    My only concern with this technique is that the metal wrench could very easily damage the carbide on the cutter. To avoid this I use wood.

  4. #19
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    Rather a crappy link. No really good solution. "Contact the manufacturer" What a load.

    Chris offered the BEST solution. Works well if you have a stuck drive center in your lathe too. Incline plane driven in will pull it out when nothing else will.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Lehnert View Post
    This is a good link. Hope you take he time to read.

  5. #20
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    I can see putting the oring in the collet - that makes some sense. It makes no sense whatsoever to put the oring on the bit shaft. This would not even fit in the collet. Having the oring in the collet would at least let you tap on the bit to free it up. You could use a piece of wood or not depending on how much value you placed on the bit in question.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Brogger View Post
    Holy crap you guys make things difficult sometimes.

    Bang on the loosened nut with the wrench.

    Presto.
    I'm thinking the same thing. PC routers have the stickiest collets I have worked with. I just give the bit in router, the whole works, a gentle "tap" on the edge of my bench and voila, its free 98.7% of the time. Yes, just give it a smack. Don't be afraid, don't be too gentle. Let it know who the boss is in that shop and next time it will think twice about sticking. If that doesn't work I pick up a cut off and show it some more love. Whack! Not with a 20# sledge mind you.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Lifer View Post
    Rather a crappy link. No really good solution. "Contact the manufacturer" What a load.

    Chris offered the BEST solution. Works well if you have a stuck drive center in your lathe too. Incline plane driven in will pull it out when nothing else will.
    Yep, that cracked me up to. Sort of like going to the ER room if your Viagra last for more than 6 hours--it's never actually happened.

    I've got a Makita with a stuck bit which has withstood all solutions. I can't imagine applying anymore force without the motor turning inside out....

    -Steve

  8. #23
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    I was referring to the info on how a self releasing collect works. Not saying that all the other suggestions given don't work. But in my experance 99% of the time you just need to keep turning the nut for the bit to release. I'm sure using a pry bar and a hammer would also get the bit out.
    "Remember back in the day, when things were made by hand, and people took pride in their work?"
    - Rick Dale

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Brooks View Post
    I give up.

    I've been thinking about this, and then ... looking into it on various websites, and ... still cannot come up with a single reason NOT to stick the o-rings on the shank of the bit, as is my practice.

    Why do you think it's a bad idea ?

    It's advocated in several places, including ....

    http://www.routertips.com/index.htm



    Quote - Be sure to remove the band prior to routing, as any heat build-up could melt it to the bit's shaft.
    This is quoted from the link you provided.

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