jointer and planers recommendations

[George Panagopoulos]

Thanks for all of the excellent feedback.

[Brian Weick]

you don't want old equipment, but you want quality?

hm,,
I am being serious here....and I would like you to be honest with me. Have you ever had the privilage of working on a OWWM machine; like this Amercan Woodworking 20" hand jointer?

Thank you,,,
B,

[Frank Drew]

I prefer to rip first.
1) Narrowing a cupped board generally reduces the amount of face jointing required. Face jointing an 8" board with a 1/8" cup means I have to thin the board at least 1/8" on the jointer. If I rip that same board into 3 strips, the cupping on the narrower boards will be significantly reduced.

I never find that a ripped and re-glued board looks as good as one that's been left full width, without any glue lines. I know that the grain interruption strikes some as rather minor, but it's there, I can see it, and I'll avoid it if I can. That's why I like a wide jointer.

I find that when I rip a board after it has been straightened/flattened it often moves out of square in one or both directions. At that point the boards are useless for that project.

No reason to leave it wide unless you want it full width, so any subsequent ripping should be minor at most. IMO.

[Steve Rowe]

George - about 7 years ago I went from separate Bridgewood 8" jointer and 13" planer (both fine machines BTW) to a Felder CF741 full combo with the 16" J/P. I have since gone back to separates for the saw and shaper but stuck with the 16" J/P combo with no regrets. The J/P combo gives a lot of capability for very little shop space. I have used both Minimax and Felder J/P combos extensively and either will do the job equally well. I have never owned any Powermatic equipments so I can't offer any valid comparisons on these. I do know that if I were to go separates now for the jointer and planer (and if I could afford to do so), they would both be Martin.

[George Panagopoulos]

I said I did not want to fix up old equipment. I would be open to fully restored old equipment, but do not have the desire or skill to rebuild old equipment.

[George Panagopoulos]

Steve,

Thanks. I was wondering if the J/P would hold up over time and this could be an option if I run tight on space. I am definitely leaning towards a saw/shaper, but not a full combo machine. Hopefully the $ will not weaken against the euro further in the next year or two.

[David Kumm]

Take a look at woodweb. There are plenty of used machines, from old iron to more recent euro stuff that are plug and play. Many OWWM guys are looking for low priced stuff that have to be fixed, but there are lots of really good machines. Just make sure the bearings and motors are good. The motors usually are, the bearings might not be. The old stuff used really high quality bearings. They last forever, especially if oil cup, but are expensive to replace of equal quality. Just look for the best you can afford and let age be secondary. I bought a new knapp after they went bankrupt- for half price- and well worth the risk. It is as good as the euro combos get. My bandsaws are from 1936 and 1939. If you shop carefully you can find great stuff and still afford to eat-once in a while. Dave

[Curt Harms]

I am a proponent of combo machines for hobbyist/artisan/low volume shops. For high volume shops I'd think the changeover would become an issue as Scott says above. It also depends on how wide your stock typically is. Having an 8" jointer and 9" wide stock is no better than having a 6" jointer and 7" stock. it's not uncommon for me to find 10"+ boards so having 12" jointing/planing capacity at a reasonable $$ makes sense.

[Brian Weick]

well,

Good luck with whatever you decide to purchace...!


B.

[Frank Drew]

It also depends on how wide your stock typically is. Having an 8" jointer and 9" wide stock is no better than having a 6" jointer and 7" stock. it's not uncommon for me to find 10"+ boards so having 12" jointing/planing capacity at a reasonable $$ makes sense.

I'm not familiar with the configuration of the combination machines, but an ordinary jointer can face plane stock up to just under twice the cutterhead width, by flipping the work end for end after each pass. Trust me, it's not difficult and it works fine for flattening one face of a board before it goes through the planer, and it's a good bit simpler than building a planer sled.

[scott vroom]

I never find that a ripped and re-glued board looks as good as one that's been left full width, without any glue lines. I know that the grain interruption strikes some as rather minor, but it's there, I can see it, and I'll avoid it if I can. That's why I like a wide jointer.

Makes sense. I'm building cabinets and rarely see stock that would require a 12" planer. I guess if you're making furniture then paying more for wider/thicker stock might make sense. The point I was trying to make is that the wider the stock, the more likely you are to face joint off more thickness than if the planks were narrower.

[Jim Becker]

I'm an owner and lover of the Euro J/P combo setup. Great capacity in limited space. And since I also have a slider, I rarely edge joint, anyway...for me, it's about flat lumber before I thickness and rip and I do prefer wider lumber.

[dan lemkin]

I have the Minimax FS35 and love it. I just got 150 bdft of 10" maple x 10ft long, and the 14" jointer is great. It also let me plane glueups >12" wide. The 14 and 16 are much more expensive than the 12" models, but you get:

Bigger, heavier machine
Much longer tables which is really nice for longer piece support

[Ray DuBose]

Hammer A3-31 Here with a Byrd Head on it. Space was part of the consideration but the fit and finish of the machine is top quality. Also since Joining and Planing use the same head I didn't have to buy a Byrd head for 2 different machines.

Ray

[Vijay Kumar]

Hammer A3-31 Here with a Byrd Head on it. Space was part of the consideration but the fit and finish of the machine is top quality. Also since Joining and Planing use the same head I didn't have to buy a Byrd head for 2 different machines.

Ray

Ray, did you do the Byrd conversion yourself or did you get it that way from Hammer? I am in the market for a 12 inch J/P so would appreciate all details including costs.
Thank you.
Vijay