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Thread: Making a rip fence system.

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh, Australia
    Posts
    2,711
    Good to see, now we need to see photos.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
    Posts
    7,628
    Quote Originally Posted by Chip Lindley View Post
    As with the Biesemeyer T-square fence, the wide stance of the front angle provides lots of stability,
    That front guide rail surface needs to be MUCH wider for stability.
    Quite frankly, you can find fences for the same or less than you plan/will spend.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  3. #63
    Nah I got about 80$ into this

  4. #64
    Make sure you get some photos up I have been wondering all week long how this was going. To bad about the extra expense of the added bearings but it seemed like it was going to have to be more of a t style anyway so I don't think you were to surprised. Don't take this the wrong way but I hope you are planning on upgrading that saw next. It seems like such a waste to have a really nice custom fence on that saw.

  5. #65
    Yeah I have to admit I had to spend another 55$ on bearings so I am around 130 ish on money spent. Keith my saw works good but I do agree any saw upgrading I do will definitely be having this fence on it!
    I probably wont have any pics up until monday or tuesday because I still need to go to the shop to make a few brackets. It doesnt open until monday.

  6. #66
    What ever happened with this fence?

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by dave pant View Post
    I know I wish I could just lift it off but I am not sure about what I have to work with on the bearings until I get them. However I dont need to lower the blade because I can slide the fence off either side.

    might be too late, but if the rail in front were low enough you could just rotate it 270 deg and it would hang down out of the way.



    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I don't see why it should need intermediate fixing points, that might be necessary if the bar was a soft grade of material, maybe. Why do manufacturers use solid sections when a hollow one is not only stiffer but lighter is beyond me. Do you push down on your fence and if so why? other than that there is no load on it to cause deflection, slide and lock.

    1. Softness doesn't have anything to do with stiffness; hardened alloy steel is no stiffer than annealed mild steel, just stronger


    2. Said before but I'll reinforce; hollow sections of the same O.D. are not stiffer (I'm a mechanical engineer)


    3. There are loads - pushing the stock against the fence, stock binding when stress is released when the wood is cut, accidentally bumping the fence


    Dave,


    I'm surprised you think you need a microadjuster; I'd think with the low friction of your fence tapping would be quicker and easier.


    It works fine on my Powermatic Biese clone fence, which has quite a bit of friction.

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