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Thread: Favorite Push Stick or Block for TS? Show pics.

  1. #1
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    Favorite Push Stick or Block for TS? Show pics.

    I use several different blocks and sticks depending on what I'm doing. What are your preferences? What makes it good for you? I'd like to see or hear of some options. Perhaps I can improve on mine.

    Here is the one I use the most. It is two layers of tempered hardboard with extra special decoration and is 14 inches long.
    Kev

    P3290575.jpg
    Last edited by Kev Godwin; 03-30-2011 at 12:19 AM. Reason: spelling

  2. #2
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    I've got a few different designs that I cut for the guys at my workplace. The original designs (given to me buy the guys in our shop) were modified slightly to allow for easy cutting on the CNC router.

    I don't have an easy way to show photos at the moment, but I do have a full size PDF that I can email to you, printable on 8-1/2 x 11. Shoot me a pm with your email address if you're interested.

    Jay

  3. #3
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    A few similar to yours for thin strips. Grr-Rippers for everything else.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #4
    This is the one I use, Rockler has them and they are great. The 3 things I like the most about them is one, the handle is large and round so you get a good grip on it.

    The second thing is that is has an open area in the center so you can push it over the blade when cutting nearer stock.

    The third thing is the design puts the force down on the board so there is no way the board can come up off the saw in the back.

    The back part is adjustable but I have found that I never adjust it, if it will catch the end of the wood I really see no reason to adjust it.

    http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11073

    27845-12-500.jpg

  5. #5
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    I think Kreg makes some that are similar to the one Bill posted. I got a few freebies, when I bought my Kreg PRS2000 router table -- a couple feather boards, and .... yeah ... this:



    I actually like it a lot.

    Silly things ... like ... the molded handle, and the rare earth magnet that allows you to slap it against either the saw or the mobile base. Removes just one more excuse for not always using it (if you're so inclined).

    So ... whichever type you use ... the ability to make it VERY handy ... IMHO ... is a plus.

    Ain't rare earth magnets just the bomb ??

  6. #6
    I have two Grrrippers, and they work, but they make dust control impossible. I have a Sharkguard on order. I guess after it arrives, I'll only use the Grrrippers in unusual circumstances. You can't use Grrrippers with a guard.

    If there's a way to collect dust while using a Grrripper, I'd like to know about it.
    Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.

    I was socially distant before it was cool.

    A little authority corrupts a lot.

  7. #7
    I have a GRRRipper, but prefer to use it only when a guard is not practical to use.

    I much prefer ANY of the styles below. My only beef with existing designs is that they don't have variable thickness ala GRRRIPPER.

    When I get some time, I plan to make a variable width push shoe which is just several layers of 1/4" tempered hardboard wingnutted together at two points high above the blade.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve H Graham View Post
    If there's a way to collect dust while using a Grrripper, I'd like to know about it.
    Just spit-balling, but ... couldn't you mount a 2-1/2" (or 4") hose on a magnetic base, and get the hose near the blade ... sort of the way some people approach top-side router table dust collection ??

    Might not be perfect, but ....

    ??

  9. #9
    It just occurred to me that somebody should make a downdraft table saw, but now that I think about it, you would still lose the dust trapped on top of the work.
    Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.

    I was socially distant before it was cool.

    A little authority corrupts a lot.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve H Graham View Post
    If there's a way to collect dust while using a Grrripper, I'd like to know about it.
    Increase your draw from below. Much of the material on top of the cut is drawn back out of the cabinet by the blade's motion. If it is effectively collected below, there is less to be drawn back out. It is certainly immediately obvious to me if I have neglected to open a blast gate once I start a cut on the tablesaw .

    That being said, I do get a cleaner top when I can use the upper collection. The above the table hood is limited to cuts that allow you to control the material on both sides. For narrower cuts I use a narrower push block. For sled cuts, close miter gauge cuts and so forth, the hood easily swings out of the way. My overarm hood is wider than the Shark Guard but I have it off center to allow my narrower push blocks to get by. If it were a tight fit like the Shark Guard (and others), I would sure like it better.

    I try to use the widest block I can (up to a point) for stability. The thin blocks don't provide much control on larger panels but, with thinner "keepers" and a splitter to keep things lined up, they're fine. The overall purpose is safety so, having a variety of solutions for a variety of situations makes good shop-sense.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 03-30-2011 at 11:26 AM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  11. #11
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    I have home made wood push pads, store bought plastic push pads with foam rubber bases and of couse narrow push sticks.

    Interestingly after 30 years of using a conventional tablesaw, I discovered that it wasn't the saw guard or push stick that was the problem, it was the fence design.

    I now have a Euro fence which can be used in different configurations, including being only about 1/2" high allowing clearance for a push stick when cutting thin strips with a guard being used.

    Of course I could have made an "L" shaped fence add on to duplicate the Euro fence years ago when using a Bies model, I just didn't think of it.

    regards, Rod.

  12. #12
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    sa14.gif

    I use the Stotz Saw-Aid, almost every cut

  13. #13
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    I generally cut this shape out of plywood. It can be varied anyway you want but the one I use most often is about a foot long. It just takes a minute on the band saw so I regard these as sacrificial and run them right over the blade on very narrow cuts. I put a slight curve in the bearing surface to help keep the toe pressed down on slightly irregular pieces.

    I don’t like the D-handle solutions because if the push stick does get grabbed you have your fingers wrapped inside the handle.



    pushStick.jpg
    RD

  14. #14
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    push sticks.JPGHere is a photo of four of the disposable push sticks I make of scrap plywood .
    No PHD, but I have a DD 214

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Finn View Post
    push sticks.JPGHere is a photo of four of the disposable push sticks I make of scrap plywood .
    Jim
    If you throw those around your shop, do they come back to you?
    I've never seen any like those before.

    Thanks for the highly variable replies.
    Kev

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