Member
I got in touch with Jesse at Eagle Tools and he has the owners manual for $12. I also told him I needed the articulating arm guard for the jointer table and he quoted me $300. Ouch!! Then he went on to say that if the machine is in good shape, which it is, that it is worth between $500 and $1000. So maybe investing in the guard isn't that bad a deal.Originally Posted by Jay Park
Guest
The articulating SUVA guards are pretty groovy, but with not much hassle a shop made guard can be made up. It juts needs to 1) slide left to allow edge jointing and 2) raise on the left side mount for passing work under the guard when face planing. The short bed 510 is worth much closer to $500 than $1000. Does it have a Tersa head?
Member
not sure how to tell the difference. any help would be appreciated. thanks.
Member
Not sure of the difference. I have read a lot of talk about Tersa heads but not sure what it has. how can I tell?
Member
Not sure of the difference. How do I tell
Guest
The Tersa head on my INCA 570 is made up of a stack of steel plates, not a machined bar. Also, when you look at the side of the cutterhead you can see the knife is reversable and there are no gib screws or adjusters of any kind on the cutterhead cylinder.
Member
based on that then I definitely have the stock head.
Member
Couple of things on the Inca. One, wax makes a huge difference when thickness planing. As in night and day. It also helps when jointing, wood just floats across the tables making it smooth and effortless. In fact, I was having a hard time raising panels on my router table, too, and wax really helped. Also helps with hand planes.
Two, jointing long, heavy material seems to torque the case slightly. Up to about 5' is no problem, but beyond that it gets tough for me. I couldn't edge joint straight when doing 9' boards, seemed like I was off ~1/32 over that length. Not sure that a table mounted extension would cure the problem. My table saw is on a roller stand which is height adjustable, so I line it up perfectly flush with the infeed table and used a roller stand lined up on the outfeed side. Jointing two 9' boards and putting them edge to edge showed no gap, that is, I am able to joint within .001" over the 9' length all day long.
Great machine, very precise and a small footprint. I had actually contemplated replacing it with a Hammer because of the short tables, a larger machine, but there's no need. Saved myself $5K. I have used mine to build all the cabinets, wainscoting, mantle, etc, for my home theater. Being able to mill baseboards on a small machine is pretty cool.
Member
Does anyone have an idea where a person might come across a used articulating arm guard for an Inca 510 jointer/planer? Are they even available, if not what is my next best option.
Contributor
The Inca Yahoo forum is probably your best bet; maybe someone has a machine they're parting out. Otherwise, I'd consider adapting an American style guard onto the machine. The Inca guard is no better, IMO, just different and I wouldn't go out of my way to find a replacement if an alternative could be fit onto it.
John
Member
I just got an Inka 510 and am in the process of cleaning it and lubricating things. It didn't come with a manual so I don't want to screw anything up. I'm wondering about preferred lubrication for the chain, etc. and also the thicknessing table seems way too hard to move, I'm assuming there is no lock, should I lube threaded rods it moves on? You can tell how well made it is but it's been sitting a while. I also am going to need new blades and a belt. Also I'm trying verify if its wired for 110 or 220, it's a plug with two tangs in a flat line. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can't wait to get this up and running.
Contributor
I lube the chain, sprockets, and threaded rods with Triflow. Take the lower cover off to access the chain and sprockets. If yours has a planetary gear drive like mine, with a separate motor under the table, not the direct drive model, you should take that cover off and clean out the old grease and relube everything with plastic gear grease (sorry, can't remember what it's called). You need new blades? Really? I've been using the same two sets for 30 years, and have run thousands of feet of lumber through it. I sharpen them when they get dull. Takes 30 minutes or so. The best way to tell if it's wired for 110 or 220V is to take off the motor cover and see how the wires are connected vs. the wiring diagram that should be inside or outside that cover.
Enjoy the machine after you get it up and running. They do amazing work for their size.
John
Member
John:
Thanks for the reply. The machine was owned by my teacher who recently died. He wanted me to have this when he was gone, but now that he's gone I can't ask him questions. The blades actually do seem pretty sharp, I just assumed they'd be dull since he was in poor health and didn't really maintain it that well towards the end. It does need a new belt though, looks like it would have been a flat belt. It seems like everyone posting is very satisfied with the cut. I have a Laguna J/P combo machine with a helical head, which I really like. Would looking to see if there was a helical head made for this machine be worth any effort? I've yet to run anything through it so am just looking for input at this point. Can't wait to get it working! Again thank for the help.
Tom
Contributor
So it sounds like your machine has the motor underneath, right? If so, the belt you are talking about is indeed a flat belt and drives the planetary gear system. Unless that belt is frayed you shouldn't need to replace it, but if you do you should be able to get them from Eagle America, IIRC. I don't believe anyone makes a helical type head for the Inca. I asked a year or two ago on the Inca Yahoo forum and no one knew of one at that time. If you have a Laguna J/P why would you need the Inca - other than it having sentimental value since it was a gift?
The Yahoo Inca group can be found here: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...odworking/info Maybe someone there has an electronic version of the owner's manual. As I said, the blades last a very long time, especially the HSS ones. I sharpen mine with a knife grinder now, but I used to sharpen them by hand with waterstones and a homemade jig. I have no clue where to buy new ones. They have a cutout in them for the jack screws. Unless Eagle America has some I think you'd have to look on E-Bay for some used ones or have someone custom mill some slots in a generic blade.
John
Member
Yes, the motor is underneath and the belt is gone I'll be calling Eagle today. It does have sentimental value, plus it just seems like a very sweet machine. I'm going to keep it in a different part of my shop on a mobile base so I can move it outside when weather permits to just let the chips fly outside. I have a couple sets of the HSS blades unfortunately with some rust on one set.
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