In terms of ease of application (hand) and holding up, anyone have a favorite? Thank you.
[OP]
Member
In terms of ease of application (hand) and holding up, anyone have a favorite? Thank you.
Member
Member
waterlox orginal.
Member
+1. Bona is about as good as you can find.Originally Posted by Jason Roehl
Member
same. used it on all my floors. a trained monkey with a wool mop could apply it. came out great.
Member
Bona Traffic is the ultimate (IMNSHO).
"What do you mean my birth certificate's expired?!"
[OP]
Member
Thanks for the input. I'm going to try Waterlox. I don't want to use water base; it's already been done in solvent base. And this is on a yacht; I think the water base would be more suitable for a home floor, but maybe not. Thank you.
Member
It's April 6.
Phil in Big D
The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain
[OP]
Member
Hello, I just found out...Waterlox is a Penetrating Finish! It is made only to be used over itself. It is not a normal varnish coating. It took me years to find this out and after I already bought it. I was looking for a finish over an existing finish...a varnish, a polyurethane. It apparently has a little more resin or 'coating" than a "Danish oil" or other penetrating finish, but a penetrating finish is what it is.
Contributor
Which Waterlox product are you talking about?
Where did you "find" this info?
Most of the Waterlox products discussed on this forum are indeed varnish. Technically the varnish penetrates into the wood and seals it for the 1st coat or 2.
Scott
Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.
Member
Huh?
Everything penetrates to some degree.
Waterlox builds nicely to a durable hard finish - its not remotely like "danish oil".
You're going to need to test over whatever finish you have now no matter what you use. But to get the best results you need to remove the old finish and start over unless you know what it is - then you could use the same over a light sanding. But you'd still be taking a chance on uneven results where you have worn or thin spots.
[OP]
Member
Hello. I got this information from a representative of Waterlox, over the phone after hints from reading the can. It "penetrates", it shows the "pores" and looks natural. Application recommended over an existing finish: strip and start over. That's why I called and that's what I was told. Not to be used over an existing finish and that it's apparently somewhere between a "Danish oil " and a varnish. I'm specifically talking bout the Original Satin. If they have other products that are actually varnishes then the rep certainly missed an opportunity to tell me about it. But that's okay, I've done enough research for now.
By the way, there's got be an excellent floor finish (polyurethane) that floor finishers use. But maybe not.
Member
Scuff sand with 150 or 180 grit, put down a barrier coat of SealCoat (dewaxed shellac), then use the Bona Mega I mentioned above (or the Bona Traffic if you want to spend more).
If you really want to spend the big bucks, there are all kinds of over-coating floor finishes available for just about any spec you can dream of, but the cardiologist's bill might be cheaper when you see the price.
Member
Did you speak to the janitor who happened to pick up the phone? Waterlox Satin is varnish pure and simple. Not "sort of" varnish or "half way" varnish. It dries hard and can build a film. You can apply it by wiping and then wiping off excess if you want for a look similar to Danish Oil but that's not necessary. Waterlox's marketing literature are kind of ambiquous that's true--they do want to imply it is part tung oil, but that's NOT true--it is made using tung oil as an ingredient, but that has been modified by the resins used to create the varnish. It's not a mixture like a Danish Oil. They also make two other varnishes Waterlox Sealer/Finish and Waterlox Gloss. Of course, you use more if you strip and start over. But Waterlox has good adhesion properties and will go over other materials as long as they are clean (really clean) and cured. Old varnish should be sanded to provide tooth. If the varnish is in bad condition or there is any flaking, it should be stripped.
By the way, all the major makers of floor finishes make an oil based polyurethane. But polyurethane finishes (including the waterbornes such as Traffic or Mega) are quite picky about bonding to other materials. There are oil modified poly's from Bona Kemi, Basic Coatings, and Dura Seal, for example. Waterlox will bond over materials that these poly finishes won't.
Last edited by Steve Schoene; 04-14-2011 at 6:10 PM.
Member
Is the Bona Mega slick when dry. I recently used Zinsser Bullseye Ultimate Polyurethane (waterborne) from Lowers. Half of it was over unfinished floor, the other half was over finished floors (Bullseye oil based poly, scuffed) and it is SLICK. The finish is good and seems quite durable, but wearing socks on that floor can be dangerous and the poor dog just slides around. The oil is a good finish too but takes forever and stinks up the house.
Ryan
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