Bandsaw guide blocks

[John Powers]

I'll admit it...I'm a hacker. But, if one more person tells me to set my guide blocks with a dollar bill, xerox paper, cigarette paper I'm going to stick my head in the saw. With the blocks loose you still have to snug them up by hand and when you allenwrench the one on the left it wants to move right because that's the way your turning the threads. There's a lot of voodoo surrounding bandsaws but that setting the blocks with paper is the one constant that really tics me off. Somebody tell me......you use paper to set your guides.......I thought not.

[Neil Brooks]

I do.

I swapped my bearings for Cool Blocks

[Bruce Wrenn]

I'll admit it...I'm a hacker. But, if one more person tells me to set my guide blocks with a dollar bill, xerox paper, cigarette paper I'm going to stick my head in the saw. With the blocks loose you still have to snug them up by hand and when you allenwrench the one on the left it wants to move right because that's the way your turning the threads. There's a lot of voodoo surrounding bandsaws but that setting the blocks with paper is the one constant that really tics me off. Somebody tell me......you use paper to set your guides.......I thought not.

When you turn set screw on the left side, the point rotates 360 degrees. So as much as is moving to the right is also moving to the left. Take your guide block out, and rotate it 90 degrees. You may have a burr that is catching the end of the set screw. Yes, I use a dollar bill to set mine. Before the current recession, I was a big spender and used a five dollar bill.

[mickey cassiba]

John...don't put your head in the saw! Instead, place a small piece of shim stock between the end of the screw, and the block. No more movement when you crank down on it...and no dimples in your blocks.

[Bill Huber]

I use cool blocks and noting as a spacer, just put them against the blade, not tight but just against it. I have never has a problem with doing it that way, I do it for 1/8 to 1/2 inch blades.

[Ray Newman]

I set my Carter bearings with a dollar bill. First, I adjust the blade tension to the correct setting, then adjust the bearings.

[Dave MacArthur]

John...don't put your head in the saw! Instead, place a small piece of shim stock between the end of the screw, and the block. No more movement when you crank down on it...and no dimples in your blocks.

Exactly! If your set screws are causing your blocks to move, then put a shim between the screw end and the block, and all you'll get transferred to the block is direct pressure.

[glenn bradley]

What Mickey and Dave said. But, after a few hundred times (I change blades for the task at hand) you can eyeball/feel it pretty quickly. I run rollers.

[John Nesmith]

I use cool blocks and noting as a spacer, just put them against the blade, not tight but just against it. I have never has a problem with doing it that way, I do it for 1/8 to 1/2 inch blades.

I do the same with my lignum vitae blocks.

[John Powers]

Whew...sounds like we think alike. Blade just touches the cool block. When I saw the video and reference to cigarette papers I thought I'd have to go up to the attic and root out my old bell bottoms.

[Bill White]

Cool Blocks set lightly against the blade(s).
Bill

[Howard Acheson]

I use cool blocks and noting as a spacer, just put them against the blade, not tight but just against it. I have never has a problem with doing it that way, I do it for 1/8 to 1/2 inch blades.

That's the correct way to set Cool Blocks. They are really the best system for 14" band saws.

[Dave MacArthur]

You know, the best way is actually to use a $100 bill on each side, and one for the back bearing too. Then you have 3 $100 bills there, you use one of those alligator file clips to hold them to your saw with a string and have it hanging there for instant grab and go use. Oh, I forgot to mention, you put a label on it

"Emergency CraigsList Tool--Grab and Go for anything decent you see advertised for less than $300! Don't think, go go go! Someone else is driving there to scoop you right now!"

Best tool in the shop for "getting the deal"!

[David Hostetler]

No block movement here. I don't do the paper thing. I simply snug the cool blocks up to touch the blade, rotate the upper wheel to move the blade, any deflection will push the blocks out just so as it were, then snug the blocks up. Mine don't move when snugging them up. FWIW, HF 14" band saw with OEM guide assemblies fitted with Cool Blocks... I had Grizzly roller guides on it for about a year, but did NOT like them...