Perfect Size for New Shop?

[Mark Blatter]

If you could build a new shop, being reasonable here, what dimension would you build? I have thought about this and have not arrived at an answer yet, as there are a number of considerations. What height would you put the ceiling at? Standard eight feet, or would you go ten?

Cost is a major part of the equation, but should not be the top priority as once it is built, you will obviously live with it for a long time. How about rooms inside it? Just one big open room, or would you include a separate finish room?

[Myk Rian]

2 1/2 car garage size would be nice.

[Carl Beckett]

Mine is a tad small at 24x20 - but a couple considerations that would make it about right:

Put your dust collector in a separate room (or some type of add-on to the outside). Ditto on the air compressor.

Have a separate area for sharpening (grinding grit does damage on machine tools)

Have a separate area for spraying (clean room type concept), with good lighting.

Definitely go higher than 8ft ceilings. I have a platform over part of the shop where I store lumber overhead (and other storage) - great for keeping working floor space clear. Also having the really high ceilings is good for handing sheets and longer pieces.

Im thinking this question might be like how much money is enough..... always about 50% more than what you have today seems about right. So I might build something about 24x36 although really what I have is pretty decent and I am thrilled to have so much dedicated space. (several pieces on casters so this helps)

["Gary Smith"]

24'x30' with 10 foot ceilings would be a super nice shop, but you can learn to do with no less, but no less then 16x20 if you are starting new

[Bill Bukovec]

My shop is 20 x 20.

I would say this is a minimum.

You need at least 16 feet to rip an eight foot long board.

I find that even 20 feet seems tight.

Bill

[Tom Hamilton]

Mark, an interesting question and one with interesting and multiple answers. So, here's another answer. First, what are you going to do. Turning takes "X" amount of space, building cabinets and bookcases requires another multiple of square footage of floor space. If you want to do both then you know some portion of your shop size. Add storage, desige space, dust collection, compressed air, hot and cold air and hot and cold running water and you add another multiple of square of floor space.

Cost is always an issue, but if you can't use the space "X" months out of the year because of temperature, then heat and A/C is a necessity. As noted above, I think hot and cold water is an essential in a shop.

So, figure out what is essential for you, diagram the elements, add up the footprints and SCHAZAAM you've got your first floor plan. Run it by the budget committee and either you're ready to build or revise!

Enjoy the process, Tom

[David Kumm]

All of the above is good advice. I can tell you that moving an existing wall four feet cost $12000 so that is what NOT to do. You will fill up what you have but build as much as you can reasonably afford and skimp on anything you can efficiently add at a later date for a small premium. Ten ft ceilings and an eight foot high door. Dave

[Carroll Courtney]

Mine,is 28'X 32' and alittle L shape.If I could do it all over again,it would be wide open with minimum columns and have a wood floor(easier on the back and feet) over concrete and ceiling height no less than 9'.All the air lines would be above the ceiling and only the drops would be showing for the air hose,the compressor would be mounted just outside the shop in its own shed.I would have one space heater mounted to the ceiling and have oscillating fans mounted in several locations.The ceiling would be painted white to help reflect the new T12 light fixtures.To dream-----Carroll

[Steve Griffin]

Here's two approaches to your question:

1)Plan a building as big as you think you can afford. And then make it a little smaller--since you almost certainly underestimated what you can afford.

2)On a piece of graph paper, draw your shop. Then make scale cutouts of what machines and workbenches/shelves you have or plan to have. You should not just draw the machine, but it's required working space around it. Maybe color the machine dark, and the work zone stays clear. Then, like a puzzle, try various layout ideas. Whenever possible, share working zones around machines. If it doesn't all fit, draw a bigger shop until you reach your max budget....

Have fun, and don't get over extended and ruin all the fun....

-Steve

[Dave Cav]

Is this going to be a hobby shop, or are you going to be building it to use to make money? How much space do you have? Are there permit or code issues that will restrict the size of the shop? Do you plan to work by yourself or have helpers and/or employees? Will you be doing your own finishing, or contract it out? Working with a lot of sheet stock, or dimension lumber? Lots of things to consider.

In my experience, the ideal shop is usually about half again as big as the one you just built, because everything tends to fill up the available space. Things you want are a lot of headroom (10 feet is great, 12 is even greater), lots of light, insulation, installed heat (and maybe A/C in some locations), about 3x as many outlets as you think you'll need, lots of 220 outlets, a plumbed in air system, a separate home for the air compressor and dust collection system.

[Brian Tymchak]

Regarding ceiling height, I recommend at least 10'. But, since you have options, I would urge you to think out how you want to store lumber and how much lumber you want to store, if you plan to store it in the shop. That decision could effect both wall height and length. If you prefer vertical storage, your ceiling height will govern the length of board you store. Most of the hardwood I've bought in the last couple years is 10'-12' lengths. I picked up some antique walnut that was 13'. Unfortunately, with 8' ceilings in my shop, I have to store that horizontally on racks, which takes a lot of wall space. If you want to store sheet goods on end, that's (generally) 8' + some room for the storage framework.

Oh, and whatever you decide on shop space, definitely leave yourself a separate finish room with proper ventilation.

Have fun planning your shop out. I have shop envy!!

[Neil Brooks]

I agree with those who said -- basically -- how big do your needs direct it must be.

Grizzly has an online planner.

Plug in all the tools you HAVE, and all the tools you think you'll probably BUY.

Arrange them in a way that makes sense for your work flow.

Include lots of storage -- tools, hardware, lumber, and incidentals.

Be sure that there's PLENTY of room around EACH tool to easily work with ... the biggest material you'll EVER work with, on that machine.

Allow plenty of room between machines to walk, move lumber, and roll carts -- lumber, tools, or ... other machines.

If I did that, then ... I'd probably add 15 or 20% square feet as a fudge factor.

High ceilings ?? Unless it's prohibitively expensive to build, heat, or cool the space, then ... the higher the better !

[Rob Cunningham]

My shop is 23' x 50' with 10' ceiling height. I have a finishing room (11' x 14') in the back corner with a horizontal wood rack along the 14' wall. The rest is open floor space. I would like to enclose my dust collector and compressor someday.
Drawing a floor plan with the machines you have and ones you plan to buy, is well worth the time. Arrange the machines so you have a good work flow rather than having to run back and forth and all around the shop.
I put skylights and windows in to grab as much natural light as I can.

[Sean Nagle]

800 sq ft w/ 10' ceiling. That would be the main shop. If you're planning a finish room, office, bathroom, DC closet, wood storage... room for your truck, Porsche and Harley add that square footage

[Sean Nagle]

When you do a machine layout, be sure to leave enough working room for a slider. That's going to take up considerably more space [in one dimension] than a typical cabinet saw arrangement.