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Thread: Perfect Size for New Shop?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Seabrook, TX (south of Houston)
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    I built a 20x30 shop once and it was a great size (close to the 2 1/2 car garage size Myk suggested). Then I moved and added 16' across the back of a 2 car garage which made it about 16x20. It was OK but a little tight. Now I'm in one stall of a 3 car garage, about 10x20. If I were to build today I would go back to the 20x30 and do the layouts, etc that have been suggested prior to finalizing my plan. And as was asked, what do you plan to build. I build some furniture, refinish some furniture and build smaller items so i don't need a huge lay down area. But if you're going to build cabinets or large furniture, that changes things.

    Post pictures of the build and good luck.

  2. #17
    I'd love to be able to have a 20 x 40 shop with a small bathroom, finishing room, and a clean room for office/retreat area. It would have a small loft for storage and dust collection. It would have a covered porch on one side and the south side would have a good size solar kiln.

    I live in the middle of the city and the costs for this shop would destroy my budget for the next 40 years, but if we can dream why not.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northern UT
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    762
    Lots of good thoughts and suggestions. While I know what I like to build (furniture, cabinets, thingys, you name it), I didn't stop to think much that everyone has their comfort zone and it is different for all.

    Like you Jim, a number of years ago I had a 40 x 40 garage that gave my wife room to park her car and the rest for my shop. Then we bought a cabinet shop and had 15,000 sq ft. Today I have one stall of a three car garage. We are going to be moving again soon and I may have the chance to build.

    For my perspective, I think a 24 x 36 +/- is about the right size. I would love to have a small head in it so I am not running to house all the time, but not sure that is in the budget. I would certainly go with ten foot ceilings in most of it, but something higher in part of it to give overhead storage would be ideal. A room in back for spraying would also be ideal. If the funds were the, I would like to put in radiant heat in the floor as it is safer when using flammables, plus it simply makes everything feel so much warmer. I had not thought much about it, but the skylight is a great idea. Hit fifty last year and I need all the light I can get anymore. There is no doubt that putting dust collection and air compressor outside is the only way to go. Gets the sound outside so I can hear my tv while I work.

    Thanks all for your thoughts. If the build happens in the next few months, I will be asking more questions.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mid Missouri (Brazito/Henley)
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    2,769
    The Perfect Size shop for me? I am going to shoot for 30' x 50' ! That seems huge, but is only room to use my many big machines comfortably, with an adequate work flow. I am tired of giving myself an appendectomy, or ripping off my belt loops every time I negotiate my narrow spaces between machines. Room to store a nice pile of rough lumber; room to set up a finishing area with dust curtains, room for metalworking machinery also. Just room! room! room!
    Last edited by Chip Lindley; 04-14-2011 at 10:13 PM.
    [/SIGPIC]Necessisity is the Mother of Invention, But If it Ain't Broke don't Fix It !!

  5. #20
    I would say go as big as you can afford to, 24 x 40 would be good, but more importantly, I think you should have 10-12' high walls. The height is great for flipping long boards around and for vertical lumber storage.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Virginia
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    3,178
    As a work space for one person making furniture, 20x30 would be ok (it was for me, but I wouldn't want it any smaller); you'd need a lot more room if you plan to be making kitchen cabinets. In any case, it would help a lot if you had a totally separate, indoors, nice-sized space for lumber storage and scraps/offcuts (which can really clutter up a work space); a clean finishing room including a spray booth if you plan to spray; etc.

  7. #22
    a couple of years back i put up a 40x60 steel building (rhino) with 14' eaves, 20' in middle. LOVE IT, but although it is insulated, no heat or ac - too big of a space for my budget. i did put a 20x20 'office' 8' in the air so i wouldn't lose floor space.

    heat is a problem in the summer, and dressing warm and moving around between tools in the winter has been okay, but this past winter i started scroll saw puzzles/boxes, thus sitting for hours in one place. i am now finishing a 14x14 room under my office which i will heat/ac for mid-summer/winter work. also a place i can do finishing work in the winter.

    check out the steel building prices - they are affordable with one of the largest expenses being the concrete floor (not being in the business, the concrete prices shocked me).

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
    Posts
    2,340
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northfield, Mn
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    1,227
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Blatter
    If you could build a new shop, being reasonable here, what dimension would you build?
    60x140, or there abouts



    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Blatter
    What height would you put the ceiling at? Standard eight feet, or would you go ten?
    Minimum 12' sidewall. 16' if I could afford it.



    Quote Originally Posted by Marke Blatter
    Cost is a major part of the equation, but should not be the top priority as once it is built, you will obviously live with it for a long time.
    Good plan. Waiting until you can do it right, or get what you want is typically better in the long term.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Blatter
    How about rooms inside it? Just one big open room, or would you include a separate finish room?
    I hire out finishing, and prefer open space to closed off areas. Except the bathroom I guess. A stool and urinal hanging out on a random wall would be a bit odd.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
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    5,014
    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Brogger View Post
    60x140, or there abouts





    Minimum 12' sidewall. 16' if I could afford it.





    Good plan. Waiting until you can do it right, or get what you want is typically better in the long term.




    I hire out finishing, and prefer open space to closed off areas. Except the bathroom I guess. A stool and urinal hanging out on a random wall would be a bit odd.
    Karl you just about discribed my old shop to a T. It was 60' x 144', 15' ceilings, and a whole lot of space. It was nice, but when the crap hit the fan here economically it was just too much to maintain. I was working to support my building. Heat on a building that size went from $400 an month when I bought it to $2000 when I sold it. Taxes were crazy, especially as this area thinks that every time they want to get something that they can tax the businesses, because they can't vote. Personal property tax got up to $1200 a year! Ok, I'm ranting...........

    My new shop is 1700 sq ft, and the ideal shop is somewhere in between, and I snuck it out in the country, its just my personal shop, a well equiped personal shop..........

    I'm going to add on a glass work area to the back of my shop overlooking the woods, about 24x36, so hopefully that will get me back to where I am not tripping over tools. But no more commercial taxes, power rates, gas rates, I am going underground ................

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,432
    In my plans [dreams?] if I were to ever get to build one greenfield:

    1] At this very moment, I would kill for a separate finishing room. Dust management. I have to interrupt machining work while a coat of finish "cooks off" - but that is only minimizing the dust problem, and is frustrating to boot.
    2] 9' clear span to the joists [minimum]
    3] In the basement today where my woodshop is, there is also a laundry room - with a "couldn't do without" utility sink. Also a small bathroom. I would not want to do without either.
    4] Separate "mechanicals" room for cyclone + air compressor, with direct access from the outside. Avoid opening the whole shop to the inevitable dust from emptying the bin[s].
    5] Wooden floor v concrete. Not that I've ever dropped a chisel, but I have heard that others have done that

    And - since it's my dream, that wooden floor would be raised above the foundation slab by 10" +/- clear - room for dust piping and electrical.

    As far as overall shop size - bigger, bigger, bigger - Chip seems on target to me.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Tyler, Texas
    Posts
    2,041
    My present shop is 20' x 30' with 10' ceilings and I'm out of room. I have a rear shed addition planned and will move my DC and air compressor out there.

    If I could build it over, I would go 30' x 40', stay with the 10' ceilings and incorporate a small bathroom, finishing room and office.
    Cody


    Logmaster LM-1 sawmill, 30 hp Kioti tractor w/ FEL, Stihl 290 chainsaw, 300 bf cap. Solar Kiln

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    DuBois, PA
    Posts
    1,906
    Whatever you have now, twice the size is better!

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Williamston, MI
    Posts
    464
    My shop is 30 X 40 with 8' side walls. I gained extra height by using sissor trusses and have an 8/12 pitch on the roof and 5/12 pitch on the inside of the shop. An 8' X 30' lumber loft is on one end of the building. There is16' of height in the center of the shop. I heat the shop with a 20' long natural gas radiant heater that is suspended from the ceiling. Combustion air comes in one gable and exhausts out the other gable and there is no open flame. I planned where I wanted my machines to go before I poured the concrete and ran wiring and dust collection underground. I have an 18' X 10' overhead door on one end of the shop and a 9 X 7 on the other end underneath the lumber loft. I put in the big door in case I wanted to bring a travel trailer inside, but never have. In hindsight I would go with a smaller overhead door. There is room enough in my shop for a 4 ' X 8' X 8' plywood storage rack, two PM 90 lathes, a grinder, a sander, coffee station, slop sink, urinal, router table, refrigerator, dust collector, 2' X 8' tall bench, band saw, drill press, 15" planer, jointer, mini lathe, RAS with 16' bench (same height as table saw), unisaw with 4' X 8' outfeed table, air compressor, cable TV, stereo and my extended cab truck, garden tractor, and leaf collector. The dust collector and refrigerator are in a separate 8 X 10 room that is left unheated. If I were to do it over, I'd put the dust collector and aircompressor outside in a leanto. I had quite a mess the other day when the dust collector blew a bag.

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