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Thread: Hybrid Saw

  1. #1

    Hybrid Saw

    Hi All
    I have been looking for the best hybrid saw I could buy in the $1000-1200 dollar range. I have done a lot of homework...but a lot of the articles I read where dated several years ago and some of the machines are no longer in production. I am sure you get this question a lot...I am trying.
    I want a riving knife, good fence, granite top (if possible) and a lift to move it around with...although that could be bought separate. I would appreciate any information...even if its only the name and model number...Ill do the rest. Thank you very much!!
    Lynn

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Phoenix, AZ
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    1,417
    Lynn,
    This topic comes up quite often, and the answer is always the same:
    1. Get a cabinet saw if possible, it's the same size footprint and usually a much better saw. Honestly, if you have only $800 you get a hybrid saw. If you can swing $1000-$1200, you get a cabinet saw. I can't think of any downsides whatever except the price difference... get a cabinet saw.

    2. For $1200 you can get a great used saw: PM66, Unisaw. However, it takes knowledge to make the used-tool analysis, so you may be better served by getting one new. In this case, you don't really take a stop "down", since these saw below all have some better things--riving knives.

    I've read 50 of these threads, shop CraigsList every night for used deals, used to have a 1.5 HP Delta Contractor saw (like a hybrid) and currently have a PM66 and SawStop. So think I have an informed opinion when I say that if you have $1200, these are the 3 saws I would purchase (new). Grizzly makes a good saw, these have all you want. I'd get the 1023 or the 690 if at all possible.

    NEW! G0715P 10" Hybrid Table Saw with Riving Knife, Polar Bear Series
    $765.00

    G1023RL 10" 3 HP 220V Cabinet Left-Tilting Table Saw
    $1,125.00

    G0690 10" 3HP 220V Cabinet Table Saw with Riving Knife
    $1,295.00

    Use the SEARCH function of the forum and search for 1023RL and you'll get a ton of threads about the saw, pretty much all positive and happy customers.
    Last edited by Dave MacArthur; 04-15-2011 at 3:56 AM.
    Thread on "How do I pickup/move XXX Saw?" http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=597898

    Compilation of "Which Band Saw to buy?" threads http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...028#post692028

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
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    The granite top will narrow the field down to a Steel City 35925 or 35990G, Craftsman 22116 (by Steel City/Orion), or the General International 50-240GT (which I suspect has some association with Steel City/Orion also). All feature large yoke style cabinet mounted trunnions that are easy to reach. Not sure how good the fence on the 35990G is.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  4. #4
    Thanks for the suggestions! I have a Delta contractors saw ( for the past 20 years)...I have never liked the right tilt and although the blade is within .005 parallel...the saw still makes heel marks on most rips. There is a dip across the cast iron top...not a great dip...but I dont know what else could be the problem. Well...there is a .004 runout at the top of the blade... .001 arbor runout...which I thought was in spec. The machine apparently cuts differently under a load. I rebuilt the saw last year...new bearings and such...but the problem persists. Theres no real vibration...the saw passes the nickel test. I was thinking granite because of flatness...but I do use magnets sometimes on the table. I just wanted some suggestions from people with saw experience to guide me...and I do thank you for that!
    Lynn

  5. #5
    Personally I'd make granite top a secondary concern. It will eliminate many good saws with perfectly great CI tops.

    Having progressed from contractor to hybrid to cabinet saw, let me ask first what is yr main reason for wanting a hybrid? Is wiring to 220 out of the question for you?

    Getting 220 will increase your options for other machines you might buy over time, and is a great investment IMHO.

    The hybrid saws are generally limited to 2hp or less. I made the wrong (for me) assumption that I'd be working mainly with 2" or thinner stock and wouldn't need the power of a cabinet saw. If you get a cabinet saw, you likely will not need to think about upgrading ever again.

    If that's prohibitive, then I will say that I had a Jet Proshop that was great and quite accurate.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the reply...220 isn't out of the question...neither is a cabinet saw...as long as I can make it mobile due to space limitations. I retired early and want to do some fine woodworking...mostly boxes, small cabinets and such. My contractors saw just wont get it done. I could go higher than $1200...but not 3K for a new Unisaw. There are so many saws on the market...I just want to make sure I get a good one. I wont be doing anything heavy duty with the saw.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lynn Reid View Post

    ..I wont be doing anything heavy duty with the saw.
    I said the very same thing to myself when I decided to buy a Ridgid 1.5 HP contractor style TS. Set it up, did a few small projects with 4/4, everything OK. First big project (workbench) -- I found it would have been advantageous to rip some 12/4 that was available and less expensive than the 8/4 I wanted and was not available. Was pretty sure I couldn't do it with that saw so I waited for the more expensive 8/4 to come in.

    One of these days, the big saw is coming home...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Why granite? Granite stains, and stays stained. Granite chips, and stays chipped.
    I have a SC Hybrid with CI top. I love it.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  9. #9
    If mobility is yr main issue, then a hybrid is not more compact than a cab saw. They can each be made mobile with the right mobile base.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Camas, Wa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lynn Reid View Post
    as long as I can make it mobile due to space limitations..
    A cabinet saw can be mobile very easily.

    A Grizzly 1023RL or 690 can be had for around $1300 and will serve you well.


    I know what you mean about space limitations


  11. #11
    I also had a Delta contractor saw and used it fir about 15 years. For the most part, it did what I needed, but I just wanted to go to a saw with more power. Going to a hybrid will gain you very little in terms of anything other than dust collection. Most contractor saws are 1.5 HP and most hybrids will come in at 1.5-1.75...no real improvement. I settled on a Griz GO690 with a slider and I love it. Cuts anything I throw at it like butter with little or no vibration and I also bought the mobile base, so I can move it around easily. I would strongly urge you to consider a 3HP cabinet saw. You will not be dissapointed, but I bet you will be dissapointed with a hybrid.

  12. #12
    So, back to your original question:

    In the $1000-$1500 range, the Grizzly 1023R and 0690 series get pretty good reviews.
    The thing I loved about the 0690 is that there are sliding table and router extension wing upgrades available.
    Like you, I'm space constrained and these options were tempting.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lynn Reid View Post
    Thanks for the reply...220 isn't out of the question...neither is a cabinet saw...as long as I can make it mobile due to space limitations. I retired early and want to do some fine woodworking...mostly boxes, small cabinets and such. My contractors saw just wont get it done. I could go higher than $1200...but not 3K for a new Unisaw. There are so many saws on the market...I just want to make sure I get a good one. I wont be doing anything heavy duty with the saw.
    A 3hp cabinet saw has a lot of advantages over a hybrid...the only thing a hybrid will do that a 3hp cabinet saw won't is run on a standard 120v circuit. Something like the Grizzly G1023RL or G0690 are a lot of saw for the money...both cast iron though.

    Here's a look at the guts of the G1023RL:



    Here's a look at the guts of the former G0478 hybrid, and is a fairly typical setup:
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  14. #14
    Used Generals, Grizzleys, Unisaws, and PM66's show up on CL often here in the bay area. If you're going to make boxes and base your retirement woodworking on a power saw ( until you discover working by hand, then you can throw the saw out !!! ), do yourself a huge favor and try to find a decent cabinet saw. The stability and solid rip fence are more than luxuries. Once you operate smooth tilt and depth adjusting wheels, you'll wonder how you ever put up with a cruder one. Though I don't know much about them, from what I hear, a riving knife could save you a trip to the emergency ward. "Micro Jig" makes an add-on splitter that will perform a similar function, but maybe a less expensive new cabinet saw with a riving knife would be the ticket.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lynn Reid View Post
    Thanks for the reply...220 isn't out of the question...neither is a cabinet saw...as long as I can make it mobile due to space limitations. I retired early and want to do some fine woodworking...mostly boxes, small cabinets and such. My contractors saw just wont get it done. I could go higher than $1200...but not 3K for a new Unisaw. There are so many saws on the market...I just want to make sure I get a good one. I wont be doing anything heavy duty with the saw.
    Mobile is easy-I made my own mobile base and it works well. As far as space, a cabinet saw doesn't take any more space than a contractor's saw. What takes space is if you want a 52" table/fence setup. Here is a relevant thread though the title is router tables. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...=mobile%20base
    Last edited by Curt Harms; 04-16-2011 at 8:56 AM.

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