Chisel handle finish?

[Paul Erickson]

What finishes do people use on their chisel handles? I am in the process of making a bunch of handles. I finished my initial efforts with Tung oil, which is one of my favourite finishes, but when I went to sharpen the chisel on my water stones, I discovered that Tung oil by itself will not stand up to the moisture involved in the process. I notice that Derek uses wax after BLO. Will the wax be sufficient to withstand the moisture, or should I be looking at other options?

Thanks in advance.

cheers, Paul

[Jerome Hanby]

That's good to know about the Tung Oil. That's what i used on the handle I turned for my Wife's Thompson Gouge. maybe I need to wax it or put some kind of topcoat on it...

[David Weaver]

I left a more lengthy response on wood central, but I misread the question a little. If water resistance is a big deal, do what you're doing but put a couple of light coats of shellac on the handle instead of tung oil. You can still rough up the shellac a little and put wax on to get that waxy feel.

I put BLO and wax on all of my wood planes and moulding planes, and they show the dirt from my hand hold after not a lot of time - dirt that I could easily wipe off with shellac. You would have to build a good bit of BLO (lots of coats) to get water resistance like you're probably looking for, and shellac will make it easier to get there.

[george wilson]

David,if you would not get so dirty repairing your retaining wall,you would not get dirt on your handles.

[Frank Drew]

Paul,

The Tung Oil I have the most experience with was from Mohawk/Behlen; they say it's 100% pure. Built up over several coats, allowing curing time between coats, it gave a nice, resistant finish that should stand up to the kind of incidental water exposure you'd get with waterstone sharpening. I know I put it on at least a couple of handles and I never noticed any degradation from moisture.

Are you turning the handles on a lathe? If so, then a padding lacquer, or shellac, or varnish or a bowl finish would be easy to apply while the handles are still between centers, and any one of those should perform well as a handle finish.

[Prashun Patel]

I pad on thin shellac to my 'inside' tool handles. Easy to refresh and looks just a little nicer (to me!) than straight oil.

[David Weaver]

David,if you would not get so dirty repairing your retaining wall,you would not get dirt on your handles.

Did get to use a few of my tools on that job, just not planes. I could check the wheelbarrow handle to see what is on it, because the greasy mud came right off with a hose. Probably some sort of lacquer.

[Jim Koepke]

Most of the time, my handles are finished on the lathe with some furniture oil that is most likely mineral oil and carnauba wax. Sometimes floor or paste wax is used, then there are a few that were treated to BLO or tung oil.

I do not thing that I have ever had a problem with the water getting to the handle. Must be different set ups for the sharpening.

jtk

[Joe O'Leary]

I apply a #1 coat of shellac. Next day rub with 0000 steel wool or equivalent (I prefer the synthetic stuff), then wipe on a mix of equal parts pure tung oil, BLO and gloss poly. 2 or three coats on a handle is fine, light sanding in between. Wax at the end.

Joe

[Jim McFarland]

Myland's Friction Polish while the handle is on the lathe. I think Mylands is just shellac with some wax added.

[george wilson]

I on't think any shellac is a good finish to hold up to getting wet. A lacquer would be better,or a varnish. The excessive water mess is why I do not like to use water stones. Tried them many years ago,and though I wiped them dry,my chisels kept wanting to start rusting.

[Dave Anderson NH]

Tool handles both woodworking and yard are something I spend time on to get the comfort I want. For yard and garden tools I sand off the lacquer finish as soon as I get them. Lacquer is quick for the maker to apply but for hoes, shovels wheelbarrow handles, etc it can raise blisters from friction really quickly. I treat them all with BLO and don't worry about the crud that builds up. Having said that, I've refinished a few shovel handles after 20 years by rubbing with the green Scotchbrite pads and then adding another coat of finish. For woodworking tool handles I use BLO cut about 30% with naptha and then add about 10% oil based varnish. After 2 coats and a thorough drying I buff them up with carnuba wax. In addition to the comfortable feel, I like the fact that the finish is easily renewed.

[Rich Purdum]

Birchwood Casey Tru Oil for gunstocks might be worth a try.

[Roy Lindberry]

What finishes do people use on their chisel handles? I am in the process of making a bunch of handles. I finished my initial efforts with Tung oil, which is one of my favourite finishes, but when I went to sharpen the chisel on my water stones, I discovered that Tung oil by itself will not stand up to the moisture involved in the process. I notice that Derek uses wax after BLO. Will the wax be sufficient to withstand the moisture, or should I be looking at other options?

Thanks in advance.

cheers, Paul

If you are using pure tung oil, moisture shouldn't be a problem - unless you haven't really let it cure fully. The Chinese used to use it to seal their boats. If you are using some of the box store "tung oil", it can actually be a mixture with very little actual tung oil.

[Paul Erickson]

If you are using pure tung oil, moisture shouldn't be a problem - unless you haven't really let it cure fully. The Chinese used to use it to seal their boats. If you are using some of the box store "tung oil", it can actually be a mixture with very little actual tung oil.

Hi Roy,

You could be right about it being a problem with my technique. I am using what is left of a gallon of "pure" tung oil I got from LV some time ago. I am using it on Dogwood, which doesn't seem to absorb much.

cheers, Paul