General Biesemeyer fence problem

[Mike Holbrook]

I have been working hard to get my new saw set up. I have the table sections as level as I can get them. I have all the rails on & adjusted to the right height from the table top. Generals directions for putting the saw together and aligning everything are pretty pore.

I am trying to adjust my fence now but I can not get the far end adjusted. There is a foot with a nylon bottom that attaches in a screw hole. All that came with the threaded foot is one nut. I do not see how I can level the fence on the far end with a threaded foot and one nut. I found a matching nut and tried putting one on either side of the metal it protrudes from but that makes it way to high. If I put the one nut on & tighten it up the foot does not quite touch the rail.

Maybe I am missing a part?

[Dave Sharbaugh]

Mike,

Are you trying to equalize the gap from the table top to the bottom edge of the fence as it runs from the front to the rear of the table? I just last week finished assembling a General 650 and noticed the Biesemeyer did not follow the table. There's more gap under the fence at the front.

At the rear, it rides on two plastic pads. At the front, the rail drives the height. I used their supplied template to set the front rail height, so feel it's where it ought to be. I suppose you could mount the rail lower, but I'm not certain if this slight tilt is even a problem. The fence faces are perpendicular to the table. It will be interesting to hear if others have noticed this.

It was while clamping the front rail in place that I become what must be the first person to ever injure themselves tightening a pipe clamp...I reached off to the side to give the clap one more little twist and popped something in my shoulder!

Dave

[Mike Holbrook]

Sounds like I have a part you don't. I have a nylon foot with a bolt in it and a nut. The instructions say to install the foot on the far side of the fence and use it to help level the fence to the table.

I have no idea how to adjust that foot with just the one bolt.

[Joe Mioux]

I have had the same problem. I just left it as is, but you probably could add a couple washers to gap the fence properly.


Joe

[David Eisan]

Couple of options,

If the second nut will not work from inside the fence, put both on the bolt under the fence tighten them together on the foot bolt (jamnuts).

Ditch the foot and make a side extension table.

David.

[Dave Sharbaugh]

Mike,

Had no such part or instruction with the 650. There's nothing on the back rail. Which saw do you have? In General (pun intended) I found their instructions less than clear.

Dave

[Mike Holbrook]

Well apparently I am not just going nuts from staring at a new saw too long.

The "foot" is attached to the bolt, so only one end of the bolt is accessible. The foot is almost the correct length when the bolt is inserted in the hole in the bottom of the fence and pushed up as far as it will go. With the nut attached and tightened down the foot is maybe 1/16 off the bottom of the rail. So even a washer between the foot and bottom of the fence moves it too far down.

I plan to make cabinet, support tables for this saw, but I need it to make them. I see no way to level the fence to the table top without something adjustable on the far side.

[Joe Mioux]

Mike:

Like I said earlier, I just use it as is, but how about building up the height of the rail with some tape or something similar?

[scott spencer]

Sounds like you've got the GI CS! (LOL!) It comes with the homeshop version of a Biese and uses the rear rail as support for the rear of the fence body. I used two thin washers between the foot and the bottom of the fence, then put the nut inside the fence....it just fits. If that fails, you might want to try a furniture or appliance foot. I find the rear rail support a plus b/c the fence doesn't drag across the table and miter slots.

[Mike Holbrook]

Hi Scott,

I think I read some posts of yours. I believe we have the same model saw, mine is a 50-185LM. I love the saw but the manual and assembly information, well I better not use harsh language on the forum

Maybe I will go hunt up some thin washers somewhere. I tried a regular washer and it was too thick. I guess I could raise the entire rail, but I worked hard to get that thing at exactly 7/16 all the way across and I think the two rails are suppose to be at the same height. You would think that since the manual says to level the fence using that foot that they would give you some way to level the fence with it, sheees.

I think I may give General a call and see what their excuse is I think this saw is the best deal on a saw anywhere so I guess I will have to live with a little hassle to set it up.

[Mike Holbrook]

Ok I talked to Redmond and Son who sold a bunch of General saws at the Atlanta Show. Apparently they have been hearing about this problem and have gotten a solution from General. General says the front rail needs to be raised enough to get the front of the fence just above the table. They claim that once this is done the back foot should fit right as is. Studying my fence I think that might just work as the fence is resting on the front end of the table angling slightly high towards the back rail. I am guessing that it may be necessary to play with front and rear rails to get it just right.

So the directions are wrong on every account. The fence should be leveled to the table using the rails not the foot on the rear of the fence. The measurements and measuring jig they provide probably should be ignored or used as a rough guide. Thank goodness I have a pretty good adjustable square that I can set at what ever front fence height works to square the fence. Then I can set the entire rail at that level. Rinse and repeat for the back rail.

I am not very happy about having to remove those rails and level them at a different height for the third time, but this does make sense and should work.

[Mike Holbrook]

I finally just called Trevor at General International and got the problem resolved.

The directions show 4 bolts attaching front & rear rails to the fence. Apparently those directions are for whatever fence is used in Taiwan. There are two larger holes on the far ends of each side of the table, front and back. Both the front and back rail need to be attached with only the two larger holes. The other four smaller holes that can be matched to the rails are not exactly level. The two center holes are just a little to low and the more the nuts in those holes are tightened the more the center of the rail gets pulled down making it impossible to ever get the rails aligned. Believe me this can be very frustrating, every time you think you have everything lined up and start tightening the nuts down everything goes all wrong. The harder you tighten "trying to keep things from slipping" the worse it gets.

Once the rails and fence are on, if the foot on the back rail is not quite right the back rail just needs to be raised or lowered a small amount so that it is just touching the back rail. The fence then glides across the table like its on ice.

Setting this saw up is not that hard at all, when it is done the correct way. General International says they are in the process of getting all their manuals redone and put on the internet. My advice would be not to believe the directions until they do. They are very knowledgeable and helpful over the phone.

[scott spencer]

Hi Scott,
I love the saw but the manual and assembly information, well I better not use harsh language on the forum

I think we should show some sensitivity to the poor freshman exchange who worked on that manual for them! (This is the initiation into the GI Brotherhood! ....hazing if you will!)

They told be two years ago they were upgrading the manuals....oh well...it's their own foot they're shooting holes in! You'll get it all straightened out....enjoy!