Heat press

[Bill W. White]

I'm going to take the plunge into sublimation and had a couple of questions. My first purchase will be the heat press and I have read all the posts so I'm about ready to pull the trigger. I have decided to go with the 16x20 probably the stahl Maxx and the different models have a lot of options I'm not sure will apply to my situation. I will totally be using this for corian work bending and applying art work. An example of one of the options is the auto openning function. Also the digital readouts for tempt and time and pressure is this something that will regret not getting later on? Any help sure would be appreciated

Bill White

[Amy Shelton]

I'm just getting into dye sub also. I have an old ball cap good brand heat press that isn't digital, and I have a newer (bought used) off-brand 16x20 digital press. I've heard that Stahls is great, from a local seamstress. For me, I wouldn't care if it had auto-open. The analog timer works as well as the digital. I bought both my presses locally off Craig's List and haven't had a problem from either one.

I don't know if you have a printer already, but I didn't realize when I bought my GX7000 Ricoh that they have a big issue that sometimes they quit powering on. The smaller Ricoh doesn't have a problem with it. Just something to be aware of.

[Scott Shepherd]

Make sure it's not a clam shell design if that's what you want to do. You won't be doing any 1/2" corian with a clamshell.

I have the George Knight DK20S and I like it. Rock solid machine and will do work up to 1" thick.

[Martin Boekers]

I have a Geo Knight DK20S and love it, the only problem I have had is a switch that went out a couple times.

Digital at least you can see if you are losing heat, I would love the auto open feature as I am always
busy with something and this way wouldn't worry about ruining an item or platten.

I have a GX7000 and leave it on all the time.(it has a power saving mode) so far, 2 years now and no issues,
NOW I did it! watch, tomorrow it won't power up!

Remember you can use Magic Touch Transfer for your laser printer with a press. I use both.

Also with the laser you can cut twill and heat press to cloth. (see Twill USA)

Much more uses than just Dye Sub, get a good one you won't regret it.

[Bill W. White]

Thanks for replies, I will look at the DK20S.... I don't know how sensitive corian is to sublimate. I guess it's a trial and error type thing. I was going to go with the small ricoh to start with to see if I really have a market for the products...I make fishing trophies and I thought some of the corian made into cutting boards or knife holders, etc. with really neat nautical artwork applied would be great to add to my line of trophies. Also the bent corian bases that I saw in S Carolina would look great with the glass fishing plaques. Again thanks for help Bill W.

[Martin Boekers]

Thanks for replies, I will look at the DK20S.... I don't know how sensitive corian is to sublimate. I guess it's a trial and error type thing. I was going to go with the small ricoh to start with to see if I really have a market for the products...I make fishing trophies and I thought some of the corian made into cutting boards or knife holders, etc. with really neat nautical artwork applied would be great to add to my line of trophies. Also the bent corian bases that I saw in S Carolina would look great with the glass fishing plaques. Again thanks for help Bill W.

Check with Keith Outten here as he is the Corian go to guy. I know he sublimates to Corian so he can give some insites.
Also ask about longeviety as I seem to recall it not being good for long term things.

Marty

[Scott Shepherd]

You can dye sub corian, but dye sub likes to be at 400 degrees to sublimate. 400 degrees on corian and you'll need a putty knife to get it off your heat press. You can overcome it by time. Normal dye sub takes about 60 seconds. Corian, with the lower temp, can require 20 minutes or so. Also, when corian is heated and cooled, it bows like a banana (the edges want to curl), so you have to keep it clamped between some really flat things. If they aren't smooth flat things, then you'll mold the shape or texture of that into the corian.

You can do it, it's just not nearly as quick and easy as normal dye sub stuff.

[Michael J Smith]

Scott, sounds like a clever way to add a texture to the border of a corian plaque?? kill two birds with one stone..

[Keith Outten]

Often, when I dye-sublimate Corian I leave the piece in the heat press until it cools down. This way the press keeps the Corian flat. If I have multiples to do I have several pieces of 1/4" thick aluminum sheet that I use by clamping the Corian between two sheets until it cools. You can also clamp the Corian on top of your workbench with 3/4" thick plywood on top but make sure that both surfaces are perfectly flat as any imperfections can be transferred to the Corian surface. Don't use heat tape to tape the paper down, the outline of the tape will be permanently embossed in the Corian surface.

I use 320 degrees F for 20 minutes......never exceed 350 degrees when heating Corian.
.

[Martin Boekers]

I have some smooth pieces of marble that I use for the board stock and FRB stock it has the weight and smooth
surface.

[Larry Folk]

Question about the Corian.
Does the surface need to be coated to do the sublimation?