how to add hardwood edging to plywood panels

[tom coleman]

I am buiding my first furniture project shortly. Oak bookcase using 3/4 ply and hadwood facing. How shoud I attach 3/4 x 1" oak hardwood edging to playwood panels for top and shelves?

Should I tack and glue using a 23 gauge pin nailer? Will the porter cable 23gauge handle 3/4 oak? Anticipate buying that tool for this project.

or should I cut tongues on panels that insert into grooves in edging.

Thanks for your suggestions. I leave 90 degree Florida for 58 degree Maine cottage next week and this a high priority project

[Curt Putnam]

IMO, glue & pin will do the job just fine.

[Steve Ryan]

I always use a biscuit joiner because it helps with alignment. T&G when I have a lot of it to do and feel it is worth it for the setup.

[Curt Harms]

If I'm reading this right, the oak edging is 1" wide? The Porter Cable 23 ga. pinner only handles pins up to 1" long. If you have a biscuit joiner, here would be a primo place to use it. If you don't have a biscuit joiner, how about a router with slot cutting bit? Another trick to consider if you have a router is to make the edging a little thicker than the plywood. Attach it by whatever means making sure the edging overhangs the plywood on both side by a little bit. After the glue dries, trim the edging with a flush trim bit something like this: http://freudtools.com/p-176-downshea...trim-bits.aspxDon't overhang too much, just 1/16" or so. Using a spiral flush trim bit should reduce the likelihood of splintering or tearout. That should yield a nice nearly invisible joint. As always when trying something new, experiment on scrap first though I know time is short.

[Jim Matthews]

You can accomplish the same thing with a few rolls of blue "painter's tape".
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/3...2x60yards.aspx

Stretch it a little, and align the strip as you go.
http://www.mefeedia.com/watch/30562848

No pin marks to fill, this way.

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm with Jim, use tape or clamps to hold the edging on while the glue dries, that way you don't have holes in the edging..........Rod.

[John Mark Lane]

I just finished a set of bookcases. I'm lazy and I'm sure this is not the preferred way to do it, but I just used the iron-on edging. I've been using that stuff for 20 years on all kinds of things, and it works beautifully. If you are building art-quality furniture, fine, it's probably not appropriate. But for basic bookcases that are going to be painted, I don't see why one wouldn't use the stuff.

Mark

[Lee Schierer]

I would recommend a tounge & groove or v-slot edge attachment with the attached edging made slightly over size. Then you can trim if flush with the veneer on the plywod rather than risk sanding through that veneer if your edge piece is slightly lower than the surface of your plywood.

Just as a side note. Unless you use a high percentage of each plywood sheet, it is often less costly to build up panels and shelves out of solid wood than use plywood.

[glenn bradley]

As others have said, a pinner is for trim but, 1" is too much for most. T&G or biscuits are fine. For shelves, where the ends will be hidden, I just route a slot on each piece using the same reference surface and glue in a spline. Multiple-choice answers for this.

[Bill Huber]

I just use the tape and TB III, no nails at all.

I start out by putting the tape on the bottom of the shelf and letting about 12 inches hang. I then put the glue on and starting in the center pull the tape around and tight and add a Quick clamp on the edge to keep the edge banding centered, has worked very well so far.

[Jeremy Milam]

For the bookshelves I just finished I used biscuits with a jointer I bought for $50 on CL. Would do it again, no nails, aligned well. Just needed $5 in #20 biscuits, glue, and two $8 three way edge clamps. No holes, worked great and I think it also is adding strength to prevent bowing over time.

[Paul Symchych]

No need to get fancy. TB II or III; blue tape for alignment and clamps.

[Troy Turner]

Bad thing is you're pressed for time...good news is, you have lots of options. If you require a tool or bit, hopefully it'll be close enough where it doesn't take too much time to get it. I've never used them, but seen where they have bits that put an edge on the plywood then a mirror'd edge on the trim. Then you just glue them up and you're good to go. There's many different ones, but it's similar to this...This would be inline with your idea of t/g it together.

[Chris Padilla]

As most of the other folks have said, glue and some kind of clamps works just great. I take it the edging is thick to add rigidity to the shelf? If *that* is the case, I'd be tempted to reinforce the joint with biscuits, dowels, splines, or dominoes. Splines are the cheapest if you don't own the tools to use the other joint ideas: a table saw is all you need for that.

[Lee Schierer]

Okay, I thought of the same thing and was going to post the same photo, so I'm not questioning the use of these bits just their construction. What is the purpose of the guide bearings on these bits? Look at the sample pieces shown. There is no place for the guide bearings to ride upon. If they are used with a fence then no guide bearings are required either.