machining raised panel doors

[Barry wines]

First off let me say that this forum is a wonderful resource. I have 2 Whiteside and 1 Makita raised panel bits. I have discovered that my panels as I cut them are proud so I did an advanced searched and found discussions that explained the mechanics of cutting raised panel doors to my satisfaction.
I'd appreciate some insight into the ascetics. Is there some functional considerations associated with wether or not panels are proud. I have noticed that the deeper I cut with the panel cutter the more dramatic the shadow line is between the panel front and and the profile. How does this affect the overall appearance. Also should the back of the panel be proud of the back of the rails and stiles or not. I have a back cutter so I can tailor the positioning of the tongue.
Thanks Barry

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Disclaimer: Not an expert...

I was under the impression that cutting in the back was purely a preference kind of thing. If you don't do it, then the panel will be proud of the frame unless you use a board that is not as thick.

The question of aesthetics is related to a preference for a front board that is not proud, and also, to have a different look for the back of the panel when you open the door. I do not ever remember hearing things such as structural integrity, only aesthetics.

As such, I have to say that your use of a back cutter allows you to position the tongue precisely where you desire.

[Neil Brooks]

If you're doing a classic frame-and-panel door (rails and stiles), you can easily put a bevel on your blade, and use your table saw to raise the panels, cutting the angle by standing the panel on each of its four ends and sliding it through.

Luckily ... as with most things woodworking ... there's more than one way to do this one

[Frank Drew]

Traditional raised and fielded panels aren't my favorite look, but I prefer when the fielded portion is proud of the framing; to me it accentuates the three dimensional look. I know that a lot of shops cut panels that end up flush with the framing so that the whole door can be sent through a sanding planer.

[John TenEyck]

Personal preference from my point of view. I don't like the panels to be proud of the front, and I like them recessed on the back, so I typically use panels about 5/8" thick for 3/4" frames. As mentioned already, this also allows me to run the whole door through my drum sander after glue-up to sand the stile/rail joints perfect, without the sanding drum hitting the already finished panels.

[Karl Brogger]

Do whatever looks best to you. Its woodworking, not a religion.

[Jeff Monson]

I use 3/4 material for the frame and the panel. I set my panel flush with the frame, this way I can easily run them through my drum sander. I think its more personal preference than anything, ease of getting to a finished product for me.

[Chip Lindley]

I'm with Jeff. But it's strictly up to the individual! Preparing 5/8" stock for panels only to avoid being proud of the frame is an extra, wasteful step. Using a back cutter allows the door frame and panel to be made from 3/4" stock. I like the look. YMMV!

[Neal Clayton]

reduced height panels were popular ~100-120 years ago, especially in craftsman style buildings. the idea being to give an appearance of more bulk in the frame, rather than a more decorative panel.

here's my back door from 1908 as an example...

CIMG0241.JPG

i recreate this effect with modern bits (no router bits that i know of are made for such panels, they're all made to match the frame thickness) by using a straight ~15 degree cutter set too low in the table. so for a 1 3/8" door i'll go down to about .90 on the panel thickness.

so yeah, in certain instances reduced height panels or even flat panels would be the aesthetic preference.

suggestion: there are old millwork catalogs that are still in print available on amazon. buy some of em from various eras, and look at the drawings to get an idea of what is appropriate for what era and style.