Heat press

[Bill W. White]

I'm going to take the plunge into sublimation and had a couple of questions. My first purchase will be the heat press and I have read all the posts so I'm about ready to pull the trigger. I have decided to go with the 16x20 probably the stahl Maxx and the different models have a lot of options I'm not sure will apply to my situation. I will totally be using this for corian work bending and applying art work. An example of one of the options is the auto openning function. Also the digital readouts for tempt and time and pressure is this something that will regret not getting later on? Any help sure would be appreciated

Bill White

[Amy Shelton]

I'm just getting into dye sub also. I have an old ball cap good brand heat press that isn't digital, and I have a newer (bought used) off-brand 16x20 digital press. I've heard that Stahls is great, from a local seamstress. For me, I wouldn't care if it had auto-open. The analog timer works as well as the digital. I bought both my presses locally off Craig's List and haven't had a problem from either one.

I don't know if you have a printer already, but I didn't realize when I bought my GX7000 Ricoh that they have a big issue that sometimes they quit powering on. The smaller Ricoh doesn't have a problem with it. Just something to be aware of.

[Scott Shepherd]

Make sure it's not a clam shell design if that's what you want to do. You won't be doing any 1/2" corian with a clamshell.

I have the George Knight DK20S and I like it. Rock solid machine and will do work up to 1" thick.

[Martin Boekers]

I have a Geo Knight DK20S and love it, the only problem I have had is a switch that went out a couple times.

Digital at least you can see if you are losing heat, I would love the auto open feature as I am always
busy with something and this way wouldn't worry about ruining an item or platten.

I have a GX7000 and leave it on all the time.(it has a power saving mode) so far, 2 years now and no issues,
NOW I did it! watch, tomorrow it won't power up!

Remember you can use Magic Touch Transfer for your laser printer with a press. I use both.

Also with the laser you can cut twill and heat press to cloth. (see Twill USA)

Much more uses than just Dye Sub, get a good one you won't regret it.

[Bill W. White]

Thanks for replies, I will look at the DK20S.... I don't know how sensitive corian is to sublimate. I guess it's a trial and error type thing. I was going to go with the small ricoh to start with to see if I really have a market for the products...I make fishing trophies and I thought some of the corian made into cutting boards or knife holders, etc. with really neat nautical artwork applied would be great to add to my line of trophies. Also the bent corian bases that I saw in S Carolina would look great with the glass fishing plaques. Again thanks for help Bill W.

[Martin Boekers]

Thanks for replies, I will look at the DK20S.... I don't know how sensitive corian is to sublimate. I guess it's a trial and error type thing. I was going to go with the small ricoh to start with to see if I really have a market for the products...I make fishing trophies and I thought some of the corian made into cutting boards or knife holders, etc. with really neat nautical artwork applied would be great to add to my line of trophies. Also the bent corian bases that I saw in S Carolina would look great with the glass fishing plaques. Again thanks for help Bill W.

Check with Keith Outten here as he is the Corian go to guy. I know he sublimates to Corian so he can give some insites.
Also ask about longeviety as I seem to recall it not being good for long term things.

Marty

[Scott Shepherd]

You can dye sub corian, but dye sub likes to be at 400 degrees to sublimate. 400 degrees on corian and you'll need a putty knife to get it off your heat press. You can overcome it by time. Normal dye sub takes about 60 seconds. Corian, with the lower temp, can require 20 minutes or so. Also, when corian is heated and cooled, it bows like a banana (the edges want to curl), so you have to keep it clamped between some really flat things. If they aren't smooth flat things, then you'll mold the shape or texture of that into the corian.

You can do it, it's just not nearly as quick and easy as normal dye sub stuff.

[Michael J Smith]

Scott, sounds like a clever way to add a texture to the border of a corian plaque?? kill two birds with one stone..

[Keith Outten]

Often, when I dye-sublimate Corian I leave the piece in the heat press until it cools down. This way the press keeps the Corian flat. If I have multiples to do I have several pieces of 1/4" thick aluminum sheet that I use by clamping the Corian between two sheets until it cools. You can also clamp the Corian on top of your workbench with 3/4" thick plywood on top but make sure that both surfaces are perfectly flat as any imperfections can be transferred to the Corian surface. Don't use heat tape to tape the paper down, the outline of the tape will be permanently embossed in the Corian surface.

I use 320 degrees F for 20 minutes......never exceed 350 degrees when heating Corian.
.

[Martin Boekers]

I have some smooth pieces of marble that I use for the board stock and FRB stock it has the weight and smooth
surface.

[Larry Folk]

Question about the Corian.
Does the surface need to be coated to do the sublimation?

[Scott Shepherd]

No coating required.

It's not an extremely practical thing to do. As Keith mentioned, he's getting 20 minutes in the press. That means the meter is running the entire time. You have to be getting some really good money for anything to stay in a heat press for 20 minutes, then cooling, clamped down for another 20 or so.

Yes, it can be done, yes, there are ways to make money with it, but in my opinion, it's not very commercial in it's use.

It doesn't cleanly sublimate either, and a paper transfer in a heat press for 20 minutes isn't ideal and you can run into all kinds of issues with the paper fusing into the material too.

Again, it can be done, there are ways to make money, but there are tons of other things you can dye sub that look better and yield much higher returns. The colors don't "pop" on corian like that do on other things. It takes color good, but not super bright like what dye sub is known for.

Just a heads up before anyone spends much time and money trying it out.

[Keith Outten]

Scott,

I solved the paper sticking problem by removing what I can and then applying a coat of solid surface polish over the surface. After a few minutes I use my ROS with a white 3M pad and the paper remnants that are sticking to the surface will come right off during the polishing step.

These days the majority of my Corian dye-sub work is making centerpieces for large signs that I inlay so the profit margin is higher than the $1.12 per square inch I charge for plaques.
.

[Scott Shepherd]

I understand Keith, I only bring it up because I know your market and what types of stuff you do, and I know you're not playing in the "trophy" end of the market. However, not everyone that reads these posts knows that, so I wanted to make sure it was clear that it's not quick, it's not the typical dye sub result, and it's not inexpensive for the customers to make sure someone reading this understands that before sinking money into it thinking they can dye sub corian and make a ton of money in the retail market. I don't think you can. I think there's plenty of money to be made in the commercial side of it, but retail corian that's dye subbed is not going to be cheap (to make or sell).

[Larry Bratton]

Corian is basically polyester (plastic) and it will sublimate without a coating.

A couple of notes -I got the small Ricoh 3300. I am very happy with it. I have been printing and applying to a test kit of Unisub hardboard, aluminum and fiberglass reinforced plastic. I have to say, I am absolutely blown away with the way the stuff comes out. The printing on the paper looks like crap but when you put it on the substrate it is like magic..the finish is almost like glass. The colors are excellent. Printing on the Vapor apparel is remarkable also, great color and no feel to it at all. David Gross from Conde helped me set up the driver and the profile to print from Corel Draw. Excellent guy.

I have a Hotronix Swinger heat press. Excellent piece of equipment. Seems I read somewhere though that for sublimation you should stay away from auto opening presses. Don't quote me on that ..my mind is getting feeble in my old age.

Can't say enough good stuff about Conde. Super service and support. Placed a small order today, got a call from my rep Michelle to confirm it. I had a garment backordered from the original order, it came in and she threw it in my order today for FREE!!!!
Cuddos to Scott Shepard for pointing me in that direction!