Router Table Extension Build-Advice Needed.

[Norman Hitt]

Just a thought to keep you from fainting when you see the price of the countertop grade laminate. I have a local cabinet shop that keeps and sells laminate scraps. The good stuff sells for around $50 to $80 for a 4' X 8" sheet at Lowes or HD. You can save a lot of cash by using scrap partial sheets.

That's what I did on the last two projects. About $15 total for the two projects, (a new extension wing for my PM 66 and an outfeed table for my buddy's Rigid).

[Andy Maldoror]

could i use carriage bolts instead of t-bolts or does it have to be flush beneath the formica? is there a filler i could use for the holes, if i used carriage bolts, that would hold up?

[Andy Maldoror]

also is 1x1 1/8" aluminum L thick enough?

[Norman Hitt]

could i use carriage bolts instead of t-bolts or does it have to be flush beneath the formica? is there a filler i could use for the holes, if i used carriage bolts, that would hold up?

I was recommending "T" Nuts, not T Bolts, but yes, you could use carriage bolts "IF" they were mounted through from the top after the bottom laminate was put on AND if you countersink them so the heads are just slightly below the top of the MDF so the top laminate will be flat when it is put on. I don't know if there is a suitable material to use as a filler or not, but personally, I would prefer to have a smooth unblemished top laminate surface, but that's just me, but mostly because there is NO possibility of moisture getting and causing damage around the bolt hole which could lead to failuree.

Note: If you install Bolts of any kind from the top, they will be sticking out of the bottom and you will have to block up under the top so it is solid when you apply the top Laminate.

also is 1x1 1/8" aluminum L thick enough?

Any size will help "Some", but for long term use, I think it is a little light and narrow on the vertical leg of the L. I think the leg that is vertical, (perpendicular to the table) should be at LEAST 1 1/2" or more, and thicker than 1/8" would be preferred. The stiffness of the vertical leg of the L is what gives the strength lin the direction to prevent sagging.

One other thing, whatever bolts & nuts you decide to use, I would put 4 bolts in each piece of L stock. One close to each end and the other two spaced evenly in between.

[Andy Maldoror]

does the borg carry t-nuts?

[Norman Hitt]

does the borg carry t-nuts?

I don't know if they do at other locations, but I only found them at "Our" Borg one time. Some of the Ace Hardware stores carry them, or, you can get them from Woodcraft and other online stores. I usually pick up a few when I see them on sale to have on hand for projects like this, because they work so well for jigs and things. I usually keep a few of the three small sizes, (3/16 IIRC, and 1/4" and 5/16"). The reason I prefer them over screws for projects like this, is that screws (in MDF and even sometimes in "Some" Plywood applications) can loosen or pull out where these stay tight because you are bolted all the way through, while still having a flat surface on the top. I always salvage them when I no longer have a need for old jigs and take them apart.

[Andy Maldoror]

having an oh $@^* moment. the t-nuts and L that i framed below where the router will be have pulled some sag into it.
don't have a hand planer or belt sander. just the slow going festool palm sander.

[Andy Maldoror]

it's .006 concave where the router cutout should be...what tolerances would you guys feel comfortable with?
i'd be much more comfortable if it was a convex .006...do i need to get this sag totally out?

[Trent Shirley]

My two cents as I have done this project myself.
Two layers of 3/4" MDF is VERY strong. I doubt you will see any sagging given the size an extension wing typically is.
As others have stated though adding L bracket under the edge will certainly stiffen it up and make sagging a near impossibility.
One thing you want to consider though when you decide how to attach it to your table is how you will adjust the alignment with your table. I thought I had mine in pretty nicely but it did settle in it's mounts just enough that my fence catches on the lip when I slide across it. I have adjusters but not accessible without pulling the extension and using trial and error to align things. Adjuster screws that you can reach from either the top or bottom of the table to align it is a better way to go.