How many use a TS with zero safety features?

[Jim Foster]

I have the PM66. What's the MJ splitter?

The only thing I've got on my PM66 is a zero clearance insert which I always use unless I've got the dado stack on the saw. The guard is never on. I'm embarassed to say that I've had a MJ splitter for years but never got around to installing it on the ZC insert. I do have the saw dialed in very well with a TS Aligner with a few thou of clearance on the back end of the fence so there's no pinching/kickback issues. Gripper and/or pushsticks, and sometimes featherboards do get used regularly and I feel very safe and comfortable with this saw. My previous C-man contractor saw was a true kickback generating machine that scared the bejeezus out me. No way I could get that saw tuned in so that it didn't have issues.

[Jim Foster]

I have the PM66 with no guards. I'm a little embarrassed, but it is what it is. I'd like to get a riving knife, but have not seen one for this saw. The original guard seemed like a real pain in the #$$ to use, so it's not used. I would also like to get some overhead dust collection, because the collection at the base is pretty useless in its current state.

For safety (and I'm not opposed to more safety) I use roller stands whenever the situation warrants and I use push sticks quite often. Another important safety issue is safety glasses, which are always on, when the saw is on. I also keep the blades sharp and clean, so it cuts at maximum performance. I also keep the top clear of waste so something does not vibrate into the blade and kick back (learned the hard way a few years ago) My saw used to be on a concrete floor and there was no vibration, now I'm on a second story wooden floor and the saw vibrate more than I like when it's on.

[Richard Galloway]

I have an Old Rockwell Delta saw that came with a guard and kick back pawls, but they caused more issues than they ever prevented and were tossed Years ago. I keep the blade just above the boards, pay Very close attention to what I'm doing, making sure that everything is set properly and clear before I start a cut and have never had an issue in the 30 years I've been using it. Would I keep the guards, etc. on a new saw? Don't know, have never ran a saw that had them to compare. The Idea is good, but would have to see how they actually Worked. To me, a guard that causes problems is more dangerous than no guards and no problems.

[Brian Kent]

I keep reading about POS splitters. It turns out someone actually makes them on purpose. PoE makes a high power splitter called the POS 4000.
http://global.level1.com/Business-Pr...-4000/743.html

Up til now I thought that was a joke!

Here's some more:
http://www.allthingspos.com/axis/pow...r-ethernet.htm

Here are some more products:
· POS Software
· POS Systems
· POS Printers
· POS Touchscreens

And Raisecom makes Passive Optical Splitters. How can I mount one of these POS splitters on my grizzly?
http://www.raisecom-tech.com.ua/html...0090924_en.pdf

Just askin'

Brian

[Chris Kennedy]

I have a Craftsman zipcode, and I pulled the guard/splitter off almost immediately because I couldn't get it to align very well. I worked that way for a couple of years, but didn't like it. Since then, I have installed a MicroJig splitter and an Excalibur overarm guard.

Cheers,

Chris

[Chip Lindley]

Imma ZERO guy! I've grown accustomed to my own "system" over 30 years, feeling it important to see where the blade is at all times. The exception to that is, I enjoy using an Exaktor overhead guard on the PM66 only because it has good dust collection and keeps sawdust out of my face.

[Gary Hodgin]

The only time my guard comes off the table saw is when I am using my dado blade.

Pain in the butt? Yeah.....but I am used to it.

Same here. I've had a table saw for about 12 years and didn't use the safety equipment until 4 or 5 years ago. I wish it wasn't so much trouble to remove for dadoes but I always put it back on with the dado blade comes off.

[Tony Bilello]

When I first started woodworking about 30 years ago, I got tired of taking the safety guard on and off every time I make dadoes or if I want to actually see what I am cutting. I still don't use any today. I have several different types and styles of ripping and cutting to keep my hands/fingers away from the blade.

[Brian Kent]

Jim, the MJ Splitter is a low profile removable piece of metal covered with plastic (original are plastic only). Very easy to insert and remove from the top. I consider a splitter or riving knife to be extremely important. Even if I was 100% smart and safe and consistent in my technique on the table saw, wood moves. A rip-cut board can pinch and twist on the back of the blade and voila - 160 mph projectile.

I have used the plastic splitters for years and will soon buy the metal and plastic splitters.

[Ole Anderson]

I have had my Grizz about a dozen years. Started out using the guard as often as possible, then started getting lazy and often it got used without a guard. Then I got a kickback that put a good sized bruise on my belly. So I made a splitter for my ZCI. Then I went back to using the guard, realizing the best part of the guard was the "splitter" that held the guard in place. Once the lumber passed the splitter, no way was it going to kickback. Granted it is no riving knife, but it sure is better than nothing. Now I have a Sharkguard with a 3" DC hose. It stays on for virtually every cut possible.

I see that on most home improvement shows, whether inside a shop or at a jobsite, the only safety gear you MIGHT see is a pair of safety glasses. Not a good example.

[Carl Beckett]

+1 on the zero clearance inserts. I have a thumb that clicks every time I bend it, due to a front dive on a test cut where the board wasnt supported around the blade and thus kicked back. I was standing 'out of the line' as a matter of habit, but the board kicked into my thumb/socket and did a number on it. (emergency room, two pins in the thumb and a cast for 8 weeks). I healed and have full use of all the digits still (didnt get into the blade, only kickback damage)

I am fortunate and feel lucky that it wasnt worse. But now take an extra moment to be sure that the throat opening isnt excessive. (meaning, the FIRST thing you should do is throw away the stock insert that comes with most saws, and buy some blanks that cut to fit the blade width)

Im also a big fan of a splitter. And keeping the saw tuned so it cuts well (fence and blade square and in alignment, minimize binding, sharp blade, etc).

[Tony Bilello]

"I was standing 'out of the line' as a matter of habit, but the board kicked into my thumb/socket and did a number on it"
Standing out of line might very well be the reason for the kickback. Preventing kickback is a delicate balance between seeing what you are doing on both sides of the blade and pushing the board straight with a certain amount of pressure against the fence. You must stand where you have the best balance and control with both hands and have the best visability. In most cases, this will put you in line with the blade. If you are afraid of kickback and purposely stand to the side, this will most likely be the cause of the kickback that you are trying to avoid.

BTW, just because I dont use any protection does not necessarily mean that I am an advocate of it. It is just the way I work.

[Brian W Evans]

I had a General contractor's saw that I used without the OEM splitter or guard. I added an MJ splitter, ZCI's, two Grripers, and a stance to the left of the kickback area. No problems. Now I have a Bosch 4100 with a riving knife. Because the guard and prawls are so easy to put on and take off, I sometimes use them. Otherwise I use the ZCI's, Grrippers, etc. If I had the room I would add an overhead guard/dust collector.

Even with all of this safety equipment, I think the thing that keeps me safest is the attitude that nothing I can build in my shop is worth any kind of injury. There have been many times when I could feel my self-imposed deadlines creeping up or wanted to just get one more thing done before calling it a night and I was tempted to take a shortcut. I ALWAYS walk away at that point.

Presented entirely without comment: NPR had a story yesterday about sawstop technology and the consumer product safety commission's new table saw safety regulations. Find it here.

Edit: I would also add that I am a big advocate of featherboards, jigs, fences, etc., to the point that I think I go too far out of my way to make/use them sometimes. They definitely keep me safe, though (and accurate).

[Kent A Bathurst]

.......... the MJ Splitter. A rip-cut board can pinch and twist on the back of the blade and voila - 160 mph projectile.......... the metal and plastic splitters.

Mr Kent: 2 things

1] I don't know what cave I have been living in, but I had not been aware of the MJ splitter. Old dogs can learn new tricks.......at that price, and ease of connect/disconnect, my MJ set [the metal + plastic version] will be here in a couple days.
2] Your TS speed must be the Spinal Tap version - it goes to 11 . A 10" dia blade @ 3000 rpm is tip speed of 89.2 MPH......but I don't think you were talking literally, and when a chunk o' stuff is coming at you 90 is pretty darn fast enough

Gratzi

Kent

[Brian Kent]

Thanks Kent. I'll go with your 89.2 mph figure. I was just passing on what I had heard, disregarding things like math and accuracy.

But speaking of 160 mph, did you know that 91.5% of all statistics are made up on the spot!?