Satin Finish?

[Suzanne M Thomas]

The desk I did is done and I'm happy about the results. (file drawer isn't in yet, still drying). I like the Behlens, seems like a real durable finish and it was easy to apply with a brush. I'm not crazy about the glossy though. I did the nightstands and bed in a satin poly and prefer the satin look.
Does the Behlens come in a satin finish?

P6130004.jpgP6130005.jpgrP6130003.jpg
P6130017.jpg

[Dave Gaul]

A quick glance seems to return the answer of "no", you just get Behlens.

You would have to research some more on this, as I have not done it, but I believe you can "knock down" that glossy finish by doing some hand/wet sanding/polishing, and you can end up with a level of finish to whatever you like...

[Jim Rimmer]

I'm sure some of the finishing gurus will chime in eventually but I believe you can knock down the gloss with 0000 steel wool.

[Prashun Patel]

To get uniform results, you really have to have a built up surface. You can use wither 0000 steel wool around a cork block or 600 grit wet sandpaper around a block.

Just remember these three things:

1) Yr sfc should be fairly cured or else the scratch pattern won't happen evenly (DAMHIKT).
2) Yr sfc has to be able to be made completely level or you'll have shiny grains where the abrasive does not touch. If you then try to abrade into the divot with yr finger you risk rubbing thru (DAMHIKT)
3) Wipe away yr slurry often and let the sfc dry so you can check yr progress. Go slow or y'll regret it (DAMHIKT)

[Scott Holmes]

In either case option below start on an out of sight area to learn the technique.

I would NOT recommend w/d sandpaper and a hard block unless you have already used those to flatten the surface between coats of finish.

After a week or so curing you can buff the surface to a satin with steelwool or a scotchbite pad. Some use a lube with the steelwool other do not, since it's your first time buffing a surface I suggest you use mineral oil (MO) as the lube and use either 0000 steelwool or the ultra fine synthetic steelwood. The mineral oil will slow the buffing action and should prevent you buffing through the finish. You don't need to spend hours buffing, 10-15 minutes should do it. Wipe the MO off and you should have a satin finish.

Another option is to use Steelwool (or scotchbrite) and wax. Do NOT use BRIWAX it has strong solvents and will damage a new finish.

[Gordon Eyre]

I nearly always finish my projects with a gloss varnish because it dries with a harder surface. I then use 0000 steel wool to buff it out. This works great with a little care. After a few days I then wax the project with Minwax furniture wax and then give it a good buffing with a soft cotton rag. This equates to a very nice soft sheen to the project and a surface that people love to touch because it is so smooth.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Scott - what about this solution....wait some number of days, like 4 - 5, lightly scuff sand, then a 50/50 wipe-on coat of Waterlox satin? IIRC, the 2 products are very similar in nature, the difference bieng the oil in one is BLO, and the oil in the other is Tung Oul.

[Scott Holmes]

Kent,

That would work, both are excellent varnsihes and both stick well to themselves and other stuff. The OP and many others, may not want to buy another can of varnish. The 0000 steelwool will leave a nice satin finish, with or without the wax. As Gordon said it will be super smooth to the touch.

Suzanne, Make sure you get your steelwool from a woodworking source, the stuff they sell at the big box stores and Walmart are not nearly as consistant in quality.

[Kent A Bathurst]

That would work, both are excellent varnsihes and both stick well to themselves and other stuff.

Good to hear...since that's what I did.

The OP and many others, may not want to buy another can of varnish. The 0000 steelwool will leave a nice satin finish...

Yeah - I thought about that, but I have a number of A+C style pieces in the works, and with spindles and stretchers everywhere, the satin wipe-on top coat was much more attractive - for everything but the table tops - those need to be "super smooth". After a full cure [4 weeks] I intend to rub those out with micromesh, or buff them out with your suggestion of MS + brown paper bags [I've been collecting them for a few weeks now]. Will try a few methods on the underneath and choose one to go with.

Thanks for all you assistance, Scott

Regards,

Kent

[Suzanne M Thomas]

Again - such great advise from all of you. I think I'll wait for it to cure and try the steel wool (I'll go back down to Constantines Wood Center and get some good steel wool)