Glue jointing teak

[Halgeir Wold]

Hardwoods are hard to come by in my corner of the world, if I can find any at all.....
I just dismantled a 40 yrs old 4-wing door of solid teak. Thinking of building some amplifier cab's after resawing, but teak is not easy to glue joint, I'm told.....?
What kind of glue would you folks suggest? ( Titebonds are not available here.... )

[Curt Putnam]

What do you have? I have no experience with teak but have read that most glues work if you 1st wipe the surfaces to be glued with acetone.

[Lee Schierer]

I think Norm used acetone to clean the oil from the wood and then used polyurethane glue. To avoid excess foaming, don't dampen the pieces of wood before applying it. The moisture in the air will cure it.

[Halgeir Wold]

Most regular glues are available, - PVA, PU, epoxies etc.etc. ( Casco is a major supplier in Northern Europe ).
One shop in Norway sells Titebonds on mail order, but I would have no idea about their shelf time in the shop.....
trying to avoid glue lines, FWIW.......

[Tony Bilello]

Wipe the surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner first and wait a minute or so for the acetone/lacquer thinner to flash off and dry. Then, any wood glue will work.
There is no great mystery or magic to gluing teak.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> What kind of glue would you folks suggest? ( Titebonds are not available here....

I don't know where "here" is but Titebond is just a brand name for a PVA type yellow adhesive. In the US, Elmer's Carpenter Glue is also a PVA and almost identical to Titebond PVA. Google "PVA Adhesives" and see what you get.

Check in your woodworking or hardware type store for a PVA adhesive. It will be just fine.

The key to good joints when gluing teak is to have freshly milled surfaces. Surfaces cut within 12 hours are easily and strongly glued.

[Halgeir Wold]

"Here" is very far northern Europe ( 69N), and I do know PVA glues ( although we know them as white glue ).. and the other stuff too, FWIW.
The thing about Tiebonds, is that judging from comments on other fora I frequent, they seem to be hailed above all others...
and for quite some time I've wondered if this was really true - quite good with me if this ain't so... :-)

[Harvey Pascoe]

Wipe the surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner first and wait a minute or so for the acetone/lacquer thinner to flash off and dry. Then, any wood glue will work.
There is no great mystery or magic to gluing teak.

Yup, no problem at all even if you don't wipe. I used to use teak a lot and never had a joint failure with either PVA or epoxy.

[Peter Quinn]

I'm on a teak job right now, have done a fair number at this point. I find the acetone pointless, but use it if it makes you comfortable. THey will tell you to apply then wait a minute. Don't wait much longer, or very fresh new unoxidized teak oils will rush up to replace what you have removed and be more of a problem than what has just been removed. So acetone? I skip it.

Epoxy works well, don't use too much clamp pressure though or it all squeezes out and you lose strength. I prefer titebond III, which is a a type III PVA adhesive, so what ever the local variety of that is should be effective assuming you have some form of PVA's in Norway. The type III variety cross links, which makes a pretty hard glue line and seems to promote better adhesion with oily species.