source for extra long flush trim bit

[julian abram]

I'm in the process of constructing (4) feet for a pedestal table. I wanted to use a template on my router table to do the final trimming. With the feet 2.50" thick, I'm having difficulty finding a bearing guided bit that will trim 2.50". Any suggestions on where to find a router bit that will do this job?

[Jeff Monson]

Julian, I use this flush trim for most of my thicker stock http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/202...ROO&gdd=843350. You can use the template for the initial cut, then just raise the bit and the bearing will ride on your workpiece which already matches the template, you can repeat this process a couple times to get to your 2.5" height.

[Jerome Hanby]

I bought a Woodcraft house brand trim bit that is in that ballpark. I know I was using it to trim 3 stacked sheets of MDF with a fourth on top as the guide for the bearing. I don't see it on their website...

[Steve Rowe]

I would check out Magnate but the longest cutting length they offer is 2". This is the link to the pattern bit but they also have flush trimming bits of the same length. One suggestion would be to make a cut better than half way through with the pattern bit and then flip workpiece over and use a flush trim bit bearing on the first cut surface.

http://www.magnate.net/index.cfm?eve...Group&theID=44

[pat warner]

One heck of a lot cutter engagement for a 110 VAC router.
Make it easier on the cutter, router and you with a plunge router & collar/guide bush.
There are plenty of long straight bits (no bearings) that can be used with the collar and allow safer stage cutting. As long as the extended shank and cut length is > 2.5" you needn't sweat a shorter length (e.g. 2"). A cutting diameter > .5 is essential, however.
Stage cut at ~1/4"/pass, something the router can handle.
A full 2.5" required/pass? Then get a shaper.

[Matt Day]

I'm not sure I completely understand the scope of this, but could you do it in two passes on your router table:
1) with the pattern mounted on the bottom (on the table), use a bottom mounted bearing bit to cut as high as you can.
2) flip the piece over and use a top mounted bearing bit to get the rest.

[Randy Dutkiewicz]

Julian,
Not sure if this will work for you, but this is what I've used for thicker stock and works great!
http://www.infinitytools.com/Double-...products/1336/

[johnny means]

What you need is a 2" pattern bit. Cut half way on the first pass, remove the template, finish your cut on the second pass.

http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5046-flu...l-bearing.aspx

BTW, you can get a flush trim bit that fits your capacity. I have a couple, but they scare the bejesus out of me. They make my entire router table shake and it's a good 300#.

[Paul Girouard]

Whiteside Machine :

This link has info , but if you look at the chart then call whireside's they will ship it to you direct . 1-800-225-3982.

http://woodworkersworld.net/flush_tr...html#2bearings




This is the RFT5200

[Peter Quinn]

One heck of a lot cutter engagement for a 110 VAC router.

Stage cut at ~1/4"/pass, something the router can handle.
A full 2.5" required/pass? Then get a shaper.

If the master of the router tells you this it should mean something. I was having the same thoughts my self. I think whitesde makes a very long spiral carbide flush trimmer, we have one at work, but man, it's the last bit I ever rant to use. It's so easy to get lots of chatter and deflection with those long bits, and god help you if you have to climb cut to overcome grain direction on a curve. I usually start with a 2" pattern bit, top bearing, 1 1/4" diameter. I like to route with the template, remove the template and take am second pass to get the next 1/2" , then flip the parts and come from the other side with a bottom bearing fush trimmer. It's essential to BS as close tom the line as you can, and those big pattern bits really work better in a 3hp router if possible, or at least the biggest you have. I have done up to 3 1/4" this way.

[julian abram]

Hey fellows, thanks for all the info. You have suggested several easier and safer solutions than I was orginially thinking with the long bit. I'm not completely new to woodworking but have not worked any projects with stock this thick on the router table. I'll just purchase a smaller flush trim pattern bit an do some repositioning. I will bandsaw close as possible to the curved lines then use the temple with my router table PC 7518. Again many thanks for all the info.