Opinions on Nicholson super shear (curved milled teeth files)

[David Weaver]

Well, with the gramercy rasp, it's not just quicker, but much better for putting the radius on the saw handle. I would probably not trade it for two flat cut files when putting together a saw handle.

If you do decide to go with files, make sure one of them is a half-round with a fairly tight radius on it, so you don't get stuck cutting that radius with coarse sandpaper on a dowel (grit doesn't stay on sandpaper long on a dowel, unfortunately). You will be able to do the work, though, a multitude of ways.

Before I was making saw handles (and only plane totes), I only used the LV rasp with the black plastic handle - I think it was about $25 - hopefully it hasn't gone up much. It leaves fairly deep grooves, but it can be followed by a coarse metal file that you could find somewhere for $10 and then sand after that.

I would love to have auriou rasps, too, and am not really in a situation where I can't afford them, but I remember long ago seeing a professional woodworker say that they recommended most work be done by coarse cabinet rasps and then cleaned up with metal files, saving the very fine rasps and rifflers for the finest work so that they don't wear out. With all of the speciality files that are out there now, I've just not needed to spend the money, but am not criticizing people who do, though - I have spent much more than they cost on other tools - much more even on supplies to make one tool.

I know that the average person who reads the posts on here doesn't have the stomach to spend like some of us sometimes do, and I am guilty of going with whatever direction the wind is blowing in my head in regard to spending big or not spending at all.

[John Coloccia]

My one warning with the Iwasakis, and this is just my experience, is that they excel at draw filing. If you try to push them straight like a rasp, you will find that they want to tear and catch unless you have an extraordinarily light touch. You can develop that touch, but it takes some work. It's almost like starting a dovetail saw where you take almost all the weight off the teeth. I do that a lot, especially with the smaller fine and extra fine ones, but I just barely let the file touch the wood until it's glass smooth...then I can get a little more aggressive pushing it to fine tune a fit (like a tenon, for example). Beyond that, they are wonderfully aggressive, even the fine ones if you let them, and they leave a remarkable surface given the amount of wood they can take off.

I don't think they replace a rasp. I usually come in with a very coarse rasp to rough it out, and then I start coming in with the Iwasakis to smooth it out and give the final shape. If I had to choose, I would take traditional rasps and some scrapers (as per another thread, CARD scrapers ) over just the Iwasakis, but as I said before I would not be without the Iwasakis if could justify the expense. They're wonderful for fixing inside curves when you develop the required touch.

[Klaus Kretschmar]

I've tried quite a lot of rasps and files while making handles. My standard set-up now which works the best for me is:

-for flattening the surfaces after having sawn out the blank a fine file (it's a cheap one but works pretty good on this task)
-for the rough first shaping of the grip a half round Iwasaki carving file (I'm completely hooked how fast the file works and what a fine surface it leaves!)
-for the fine rounding of the grip the Gramercy saw handle maker's rasp (to my eye a must if you intend to make a few more saw or plane handles)
-for working on the lambs tongues especially the tricky groove between tongue and cheeks a one side toothed Japanese saw file (thanks again for the hint, George!)

Actually the Iwasaki milled teeth file replaced the coarse rasp which I've used before. It's at least as quick but better to steer and leaves a way better surface.

The set up works that nice that I don't feel the need to get Auriou rasps although they have a top notch reputation. Maybe I'll change my mind after having tried an Auriou once...

Klaus

[Zahid Naqvi]

Well if it's good enough for Kalus it is good enough for me. We'll see how long it take for me to develop the soft touch the control the depth of cut.

[george wilson]

Some rasps are just TOO SHARP at first. My new (old stock) #49 rasps are grabby as can be. They actually get a little better after that tack sharp edge is a little used.

[Klaus Kretschmar]

My one warning with the Iwasakis, and this is just my experience, is that they excel at draw filing. If you try to push them straight like a rasp, you will find that they want to tear and catch unless you have an extraordinarily light touch. You can develop that touch, but it takes some work. It's almost like starting a dovetail saw where you take almost all the weight off the teeth. I do that a lot, especially with the smaller fine and extra fine ones, but I just barely let the file touch the wood until it's glass smooth...then I can get a little more aggressive pushing it to fine tune a fit (like a tenon, for example).

I've to second that. The file doesn't like to be pushed straight. On handle making that isn't an issue however. If you hold the file a little skew (about 15*) to the cut direction and let it go not only forward but a little sideward, too, it will cut with high amount of control. Then tilt the tool a little bit by using not the center of the half round blade but the area near the side edge and you will see that it cuts with good control and additionally very smooth. Take the left side of the blade if you file sidewards to the right side and use the right side of the blade if you file sidewards to the left.

Klaus